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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 5:23 pm 
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
My neighbor has a 1979 Chev Luv. She said that it needed the battery to be charged and that she had just used it a couple of days ago. So when I went next door this morning and attached my battery charger I heard the classic starter solonoid clicking sound. Oh she must have left the ignition on or stuck? I removed the key and the same clicking sound was produced when I attached the battery charger. There were gas fumes so I assume the fuel pump was also working. I detached the positive terminal and am currently charging the battery.
Where do I go from here ?
Do you think it is a bad ignition switch ?
I would be most grateful for any advice on how to proceed/diagnose this problem.

Thanks
-john


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 8:26 pm 
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Sounds like a bad battery to me, try another one if you have on available,

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 11:45 am 
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The battery is indeed old but I got it charged up and was able to start the truck. However when I turned it off and removed the key the generator light came on. So I disconnected the positive terminal and when I reconnect it I hear a click sound. This must be what's draining the battery. I don't know where to look or how to test ?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 3:15 pm 
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Un plug the voltage regulator, you do like its stuck and may need replaced.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 4:34 pm 
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Thanks, where do I find the voltage regulator ?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 4:53 pm 
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On the fender well. You might want to pick up a service manual.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 4:59 pm 
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Is it on the drivers side near the fuses ? Do I just disconnect it and see if the click sound stops ? Start the engine with it disconnected ?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 5:46 pm 
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Won't do any good to start the engine with it disconnected. Disconnect it and see if the click goes away. you keep saying clicking noise and referred to the starter. Is the starter clicking or is it the points in the voltage regulator? I think this is going to get to lengthily to go step by step on a forum, you really need to narrow down what is clicking and hpget a manual to test that section.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 5:49 pm 
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Driver side by the horn (on my 80) Rectangle box. Tons of wires on a single round plug go into it

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 5:56 pm 
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You can try to disconnect the ignition switch harness from the switch, it just pulls out. I don't understand about the clicking of the starter, is the engine turning over? Charge the battery and re hook up, does the engine turn over?

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 10:35 am 
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Thanks everyone for your help !

Disconnected the voltage regulator and the click sound stops. The clicking was coming from the voltage regulator when the battery was connected. So i need to get her a new regulator. Do you have any suggestions as to the best place to buy one for her ?


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 1:33 pm 
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I always got my oe type luv parts from rockauto.com always have really good prices and they break parts up into quality brackets. Like for brakes they usually have economy, daily driver, premium, performance, long life etc etc depending on the part type.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2015 12:08 pm 
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Yes maybe the regulator but I think you need to check/replace the ignition switch first. You mentioned smelling gas. The ignition switch's job is to energize the fuel pump relay and the voltage regulator's relay when in the on position, so yes you will hear a clicking sound.
The regulator maybe, but i would replace the ignition switch first.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 3:13 pm 
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I just put in a new voltage regulator and have the same symptoms. I wasn't the regulator. The regulator clicks when the battery is connected. I disconnected the connector to the keyed ignition switch and the generator light is still on. So it's not the ignition switch. Something is shorted or drawing current from the battery.

Any suggestions on what to check next ?


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 3:47 pm 
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Get the alternator tested. Could be stuck "on" and causing it to drain the battery when it's not running.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 8:28 am 
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With the battery disconnected I get 12.8v.
Battery Connected I get 12.5v.
Truck running at about 2500rpm I get 12.5v.
I need a new alternator.
Looks like it is not too hard to remove.
Any tips?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 8:39 am 
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It's a pretty easy straightforward swap. Couple of bolts and 3 wires. I'd still confirm with a parts store that the alternator is bad and I'd have them test the replacement before I left with it. I've left Auto Zone with a bad one more than once.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 10:10 am 
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Thanks, I'll take the old one off and have Autozone bench test it. And I'll make sure I test the replacement when it comes in.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 11:07 am 
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I wouldn't buy one from Auto wrong tested good or not. Too many times I have had to replace it within a week or two... I have the best luck with electrical parts from Car Quest...

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