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I don't think the new cam will come with a bolt. Your best to find a used bolt from someone. I would have extracted. The broken bolt from the old cam, inspected the threads for possible reuse before buying a new one.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

yeah, I thought about trying to remove it, but I was tightening it really hard when it broke. So I think my measly power drill extractor set just won't stand up to the job.

Pull the cam out of the engine. Drill the center of the bolt. Drill to the correct size as the extractor, spray a good oil through the drilled bolt and remove it.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

worth a try.

Check the size of the broken off head, if it takes a 14mm socket then it should be a 10mm bolt. Fine threads in that size are 1.25 pitch. A 2.3 cam bolt is M10x1.25x35, a 1.8 is likely the same.
The cam bolt on a 1.8 torques to 58 ft-lbs (so it's probably a high-strength bolt) & that's with tension against the head. The broken shank should be very easy to remove, since the bolt could probably be threaded in by hand. If it broke on a slant you might be able to tease it out with a small screwdriver or a sharp pick without having to drill it.
If you have to remove the cam put the engine at #4 TDC first, fasten the chain to the cam gear before removing it from the end of the cam, then when you reinstall the cam the cam marks will be straight up and the chain and gear together should slide right back on. Be careful to keep the rocker arm shafts oriented per the marks & the shaft nuts only torque to 16 ft-lbs, remove or install alternating outwards from the center. You'll also have to re-adjust the valve lash.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

Off the top of my head, it takes a 17mm socket. And considering that all of you more experienced folk believe removing it should not be difficult I am going to try today.

If you end up having to drill out the broken bolt---here is a tip. Find the size drill bit you need and go and buy what they call a "reverse drill bit". These are made to turn counter-cloclwise to drill. Most of the time when you start drilling with these the friction will grab the broken piece and just spin it back out.
We used them at work and they are just great.

I have an old 1.8 head stored in the barn, if I remember I will check the cam bolt for size.
If you try to drill the cam for an EasyOut without removing the cam from the head be very careful to not get metal shavings into the engine, the bottom of the front cover is open to the oil pan. Drop the cam gear with chain attached down into the front cover enough to expose the broken cam bolt, then completely & carefully cover the opening & chain with a rag soaked in oil (the oil will keep the fine pieces attached to the rag). Then after the drilling & extraction use a magnet to attract the metal shavings before & during the rag removal.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

thanks a lot oldestisuzuist! my attempts at removal proved unsuccessful.

I checked the 1.8 cam bolt I have, it is a M12-1.25x35, 17mm hex head, has a "7" on the head.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

I managed to get a new/used bolt at the scrap yard for a dollar.

Now just to be sure on my third attempt at setting the timing. When the #4 cylinder is at TDC the valves will be closed and thus both the exhaust/intake rockers should be loose, correct?

The project has been completed, and it is running great. I tried a couple more times to remove that bolt from the cam and well, it paid off. Thanks for everyones input, it really helped.

Cool. I was rooting for you.

Good to hear.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

yeah, to be honest I was freaking out when I first started it, (not in a good way) coolant was leaking everywhere but it turned out to be as simple as a loose hose clamp. Then after a few test drives I realized I was overheating, but flushing the oil/coolant, re torquing the head bolts, and cleaning off the the engine coolant thermo / oil pressure sensor contacts did the trick. Hopefully it's all smooth sailing from here on out.

So after having driven my truck for the past few days I have noticed that at around 2000 rpm my engine makes a rapping/tapping sound. I adjusted my valve clearance, but that didn't help. Any ideas?

Is it always the same? As in no matter if the truck is under a load (climbing a hill, accelerating hard) or just cruising, or even coasting? If its only under acceleration it might just be detonation/pinging. If your timing is a bit too advanced and/or the EGR is unhooked it can do that. You can get higher octane gas or back the timing off a couple degrees.

One of mine made a similar noise that was most apparent when just cruising or under load, and it went away when coasting with foot off the gas slowing down. I never did quite track it down. It seemed like it was something in the bottom end, like worn thrust washer or something.

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95 Isuzu Trooper Daily Driver
86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good

It is constant, but most noticeable under load. Today was a nightmare, I was going up one of Portland's steepest roads, (after having tweaked my valve clearance) as I went up the hill I noticed a great loss in power even after giving it more gas. In fact, after flooring it my engine died, I suspect something is improperly adjusted on the carb because even after turning in the idle speed adjustment screw nearly all the way it didn't idle any faster, it was struggling so bad that it wouldn't continue running unless I kept my foot on the gas. The next strange thing that happened was that my fuel pump gave out, but a few knocks(hammer) fixed it. But wait, it gets worse, now my ignition switch won't turn to "ACC," why? I have no clue. In the meantime my truck is five miles away atop portland's biggest hill, fromwhich I walked five miles back home. Now I am waiting for my buddy to take me back up there with my tools(it is dark out now) so I can fix er' up, !@#$$%^&* A'....