LUVTruck.com

When I get in my Luv in the mornings I turn the key and all I get is a click. Than I can let in sit in the on position ( not start) and I hear a sound kind of like something building up power. 30-40 seconds later and it cranks like a champ. Any ideas? I know I have a 8 year old battery so I will get that tested today and maybe the alternator while I am at it. Thank in advance.

Sounds like the starter drive might be a little gummed up. Have you pulled the starter off and checked it? After you run it for a while does it start normal the rest of the day?

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In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

Thinking back that sounds about right. What is the fix for that? Pull it, clean it and try it?

That would be my first attempt. Then chase from there if that doesn't fix the problem. Keep us posted.

_________________
In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

So i have not yet pulled my starter but i will have to tomorrow since it will not start at all. Power is good from the battery. it does not even try cranking. just a silence after the buzzers shut off. Whats the quickest way to pull it? from under or on top? my shop manual is pretty vague and i have not yet gave a really good look at access. If i go from the top do i pull the carb off as well?

i always just went from the top. didnt have to pull carb or anything. very easy to do.

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My old but now gone Luv...

Awesome! i will let you know how it goes

You were right! It was easy to do once I got the old oil and dirt cleaned off a bit a found the bolts. Pulled it, had it tested, electrically sound but mechanically old and loose. 28 bucks for a remanufactured one is not bad so I got it. Installed it and got nothing still: 12.4 on the battery and that drops a bit when I try to start but even with another car jumping it I didn't get a click or anything. Finally out of desperation to get it home 2 blocks away I put a screw driver across my leads on the starter and it fired and drove fine. Looks like tomorrow I will be hunting down ignition issues or something.

Any ideas?

neutral safety switch/clutch inhibit switch, depending on whether an auto or a manual trans...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

A suggestion, since you have already found the problem! The stock starter solenoid wires are quite small and are therefore very weak on these trucks. I suggest you mount a relay on the firewall that has a good 12V source and run your starter solenoid wire to activate this relay which will then send a strong 12 V to the starter solenoid. These relays can be found at Radio Shack and all of the chain auto parts stores, Oreilly, Auto Zone, etc for about $12.00.
I have mentioned this before( in the modified sections) on this site because on numerous occasions I have found the stock solenoid wire does not pass enough current to activate a sbc starter. Now several guys have rebuffed this statement saying they have used the stock wire successfully with no problems, but I have found it neccesary so when I do engine swaps I always mount the above relay.
And just for your information I also mount a relay to supply a good 12V current to HEI distibutors for the same reason, low current carrying capacity in the stock wires.
Good luck and welcome to the site, sure you will enjoy it.

Ok so instead of getting a 12v switch and all that, could I just swap out the existing wiring for a larger gauge so I lose less overall? I have read about swapping out "the big 3" or something similar (Definition: the "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis.)

Anyone think this may help?

Oh by the way it's a 1980 base model with m/t

It's a manual transmission and a clutch inhibit switch actually came on 1980 luv's? Mine had apparently not been working for a while

I think instead of worrying about the cables and voltage drop, check the selenoide. You did get another one with the starter didn't you?

I did get one one the new starter so are you thinking it is maybe bad? It was new and attached to the starter already. I will test it in an hour or so. Starting from battery to cables to the solenoid

Haven't heard about the big 3 before, but this certainly makes sense! Always good to check these out. Please let us know what you find, may help a lot of us in the future?
And to answer the other post, my 78 did have a clutch inhibutor switch, this to prevent the starter from engaging unless the clutch petal is pushed in. One of the first items I disconnected along with rerouting the fuel pump wire to a switched 12V scource.
Know these were "Safety Items" but were terribly inconvenient to me.

Well I tried a couple things today. First I disconnected the clutch inhibitor switch and connected it to itself but that was not the problem. Cleaned the starter ground wire by pulling it off, wire brisling and cleaning it all up and reconnected it but nothing changed. Check the power at the coil and it seemed ok.

So I am still able to do a roll start but when I turn the key to start I get nothing. The on and acc positions work fine.

Then check the small wire to the solenoid that comes from your ignition. (The one you jumped the screwdriver from). If it has fire, the solenoid on your new starter is bad, if it has no fire, you will need to start tracing the wiring...

_________________
If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

So i tested the solenoid like this... put my volt meter red on the small wire and the black to ground. reading zero. had my wife turn the key to the start position and still had a zero reading.

Is that the right way to test the solenoid as you mentioned? I then pulled the ignition switch and tested continuity from the pigtail at the ignition to where the small wire has a pigtail connector near the battery. (about 8 feet of wire) the black, black yellow, and other wire all have continuity to this point, but the black/white wire which is what goes to the starter has no continuity.

My quick plan is this... i am going to take about 10 feet of 18 guage wire and connect it to the ignition wire and the started solenoid wire and see what i get. Sound good to you guys? if it works i will put the wire in permanently and secure it good and tight.

Unhooking the small wire, test for voltage to ground from it when ignition is in crank mode, not just on...

_________________
If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

#18 OK for test, but maybe go to #12 or something pernamentl;y.