LUVTruck.com

So I successfully made the head of a hex bolt into a cylinder after hours of Allen wrenching and locking vice plier thrusting.
Now what? I was curious whether or not I would be able to fill the transmission fluid by removing the shifter knob and filling from inside the cab? If I were to do this I would need to know the exact capacity for the transmission, and I sort of do? In my chiltons manual it says the capacity is 2.6 pts however, It also says that if there is a transfer case it is more. I am unsure whether or not my 79' has a transfer case let alone I do not even know what that is.
My other idea is to apply heat to the bolt and continue on with the vice, or is that the most unwise and explosive idea I have conjured thus far?
Any help would be much appreciated.

i was reading earlier today on another thread... [ and if its hard to fill (i hate filling from under the truck) take the shifter out and fill from the top , from inside the cab.... so much easer ] they are referring to a 1979 luv also. do a search for filling transmission and it was the 4th one down... by ctmandu i believe.

There is also the idea of just drilling the bolt out and replacing it since you will have to anyway...

Is your truck 4 wheel drive? If so then you have a transfer case. A transfer case is what transfers a vehicle from 2 wheel drive to 4 wheel drive and from high range to low range. Do you only have one shifter in the cab of your truck or do you have the normal gear shifter and a much shorter shifter to the right? If you hav two shifters in the cab then you have a 4 wheel drive and also a transfer case.

Your transmission is aluminum and unless you KNOW what you are doing then I would not advise you to put heat to it. If you need it now I would fill it from the top and replace the rounded out bolt when you can. It's pretty tight quarters under the truck and if you have completely rounded out to a point of there is NO WAY of getting it out, good luck replacing it with the transmission under the truck.

_________________
In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

Alright! No, the truck is not a 4x4 so my transmission fluid capacity is definitely 2.6 pts. So I guess the procedure (in my case) would go like so:

1. remove shifter before opening the drain
2. Open the drain
3. Drain
4. Put drain bolt back on
5. Measure out 2.6 pints of SAE 30
6. Pour into transmission from inside the cab
7. Put shifter back on, done!

I've never done it that way on my Luv but I have on other vehicles. I would imagine it will work.

_________________
In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

Ummm... If you put 2.6 pints in it, it will be over filled, since it has a total capacity of 2.6 pints...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

Ok, I am confused. If the Total Capacity is not the Appropriate Capacity, then what is???

You can't have a shop weld a nut onto the Transmission so you can get it off?

Chaitobar,the procedure you posted would be correct,I don't think Mytmouz saw where you were gong to drain the tranny during the procedure.

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"You can't please everyone,so you've got to please yourself"

Ok.

About bringing it to a shop - I am young and strive to be self sufficient. I brew my own beer, I grow my own tobacco and vegetables as well as forage wild edibles, and as of recently I got my first vehicle (79' LUV) and I want to learn how to maintain it myself. So no, I will not take it to a shop. Ill stick to my chilton's manual and this great forum and learn the trade to the best of my ability unless I find myself in over my head or lacking the proper equipment.

These little trucks can be tempermental, have a few wiring issues at times, both of mine still have the Hitachi carbs on them but alot of people replace them with Weber carbs. I probably will eventually. Head gaskets can be an issue as well, with all this said, they are still pretty good little trucks and will be a great place for you to learn. You are on the right board. There is a ton of info to be found here using the search icon.

Fuse Boxes can cause problems, you may eventually need to pull yours off and clean it and re-rivet it, or solder it or however you decide to mount it.

Fuel system, with the key in start postion the fuel pump is pumping. When the engine starts and you let the key loose to the run position, the alternator closes a loop to the voltage regualtor which runs down wiring to a relay under the cover on the passenger side fender by the firewall, to the fuel pump by the gas tank. There can once in a while be a problem here as well.

Electronic ignition is also a pretty simple and very worthy upgrade to these machines. We just upgraged my sons with a pertronix setup and it was a very easy and enhancing change.

I hope some of this helps.

I had to edit this....since you brew your own beer and grow a garden, then if you have a few tools you can learn to maintain your truck. There's nothing wrong with a good home brew.

_________________
In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

Theres being self sufficient and being cheap . I Work on my own truck, build parts for my own truck but every once and awhile there is a problem I just don't have the tools for. I broke a bolt off in my exhaust manifold once, I Didn't own a welder then and took it to a shop to get it removed, Took them about 15 minutes and charged me $20. They even surfaced the manifold so the new gasket I put on would seal better then before!

To get that fill plug out: Try a medium sized pipe wrench on it. They will grab onto even a rounded surface and probably get it out. Sounds stupid I know but make sure you are turning it the right way. Just a thought.

You could try a bolt/screw extractor, soak it with some penetrating oil first. Otherwise, unless you have a welding rig and the appropriate skills, you may just have to bite the bullet and let a professional handle it...there's no shame in it, we all have to do it sometimes.

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1978 Mikado *Weber 32/36*Offenhauser intake manifold*Pacesetter header*Custom exhaust*Pertronix Ignitor & Flamethrower 40,000v coil*

Get a punch and start pecking on the side of it is such a way as to unscrew it.

I still don't, lol...

_________________
If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

step 3

He's not being cheap, just trying to learn how to fix/repair his first vehicle. He's already discovered an alternate way to change his transmission oil. This is the reason why the site is here.

_________________
In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

I am not working on my truck because I am cheap, I am fixing it because I enjoy being, as previously stated, self sufficient. Ever since I got my truck I have been really excited to learn how it functions and repair what doesn't. As of right now I lack mechanical know-how. However, like I said, I got a chilton's manual and this forum and plan to gain that know-how through time, research, and experience.


In response to using a pipe wrench - I already tried using locking vice pliers and managed to get good leverage and applied a serious amount of force but was still unable to get it off. Today I tried getting the drain bolt off, (after having removed the shifter) and found myself in the same damned position I was in with the fill bolt. Although, this time around I stopped before I started to strip it.

If you have the right size box end wrench (I use a 15/16" on mine, & it's about 16" long) put a fair amount of tension on it , then tap the end lightly with a hammer. And when you put it back just snug it up, then add about 1/8 turn. On my '78 this same wrench also works on the differential plugs when you get around to those. Be careful about using sockets on either the tranny or diffy nuts- they are very shallow nuts, often the inside rim of a socket- especially a large one like these require- will be chamfered so you are only catching the very top corners of the nut & it's easy to round the corners. If this is the case grind the end off the socket until you get full contact with the flats of the nut. And a 6-point is always better than a 12-point, whether socket or wrench. The same chamfer can occur with a box end wrench, if it's a problem grind it down some.
A word about Chilton's: the pictures are great, but some of the info can have misprints or is just wrong. Same with Hayne's (which BTW bought out Chilton's), and they often cover several different years of several different vehicles with generic information. A factory service manual is much better (I got a replacement for $20 here on LUVtruck), but even they sometimes have translation errors. At least they are vehicle-specific. My point is to consult several different sources on something critical. So far you have done the right thing by verifying the Chilton's info here on the forum.
I doubt you have enough room for a pipe wrench with the tranny in the vehicle, & it seems like there are protrusions on the tranny case that would prevent this anyway.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.