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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 4:13 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 23, 2011 3:21 am
Posts: 6
ALL YOU SENIOR MEMBERS I NEED HELP NOT TO BE CRITICIZED IF I WANT TO BE CRITICIZED I WOULD HAVE ASKED MY WIFE Im in my mid 40's kids in college.recently decided to take on a life long dream small block chevy luv.bought me a 1980 lwb 2wd.cut i believe 16 inchs of bed(in front of tires of course)shortened frame.continued with project.cut down a 10 bolt rearend so tires clear frame but still under truck.put in a chevy 355 (flat top piston,real vortec heads,roller rockers,with a solid lift cam out of one of my racecar motors(rpm range 3500-7200)probably producing400-450 hp.turbo 350w/3500 stall.ive been looking for a while at other builds saw where they cut firewalls etc.(i didnt want motor in my lap)i cut out core support reinforced frame and moved every thing forward.radiator seats write behind grill running stock waterpump w?stock pulleys.it was alot of work but now its worth it.made a bracket and mounted stock luv altenator where power steering pump usually mounts .(truck turning out ok) put set 5 star prostars on it(8"on back 3.5"on front)THIS IS WHAT I NEED HELP WITH.I MACHINED FRONT ROTOR TO 5 LUG(DOING THIS I HAD TO REMOVE 2 BOLTS FROM BRAKE ROTOR TO HUB)THIS IS OK FOR CRUISING BUT 400 HP HARD TO NOT HOLD BACK.HOW CAN I MAKE IT CHEVY 5 LUG (NO!!!!!!!ADAPTERS).DOES ANYONE MAKE A DIRECT REPLACEMENT FRONT 5 LUG ROTOR HUB ASSEMBLY.IT WOULD BE NICE TO MOVE WHEELS /TIRES IN A LITTLE WHERE I COULD DROP FRONT SOME. HELP GREATLY APPRECIATED


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 11:48 am 
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lives at LUVTruck.com

Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2009 6:25 pm
Posts: 363
Location: macon,ga
best thang is either s10 swap or go with bolt on toyota stuff..

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 12:18 pm 
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Addicted to LUV

Joined: Mon Aug 28, 2006 11:54 pm
Posts: 6477
Location: Pelahatchie, MS
If you drill the stock LUV rotors to the small Ford pattern, you will not have to remove the 2 bolts, just a small amount of the head on a couple, but none of the shank. I have been deep into the 8's in the 1/4 on that set up...

Image

The only 'bolt in' kit is made by Aerospace brakes, and it calls for some slight modding of the stock spindle, and it moves the wheels out slightly, not in. I had some tubular a arms built, ended up due to the caster being off fabbing a set of adjustable uppers. I had the arms built one inch narrower per side, and I used pinto spindles with Willwood rotors and discs. A LOT of work, but it finally turned out nice, plus it stops on a dime.

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The toyota rotor swap utilizes all the LUV parts such as spindle and caliper, a spacer is needed to be machined to fit, track width remains the same. The S10 swap is adding weight, there is almosst 30 lbs difference in weight total from stock to s10 swap, and 22 lbs less from stock if you go the pinto/willwood route like I did...

left to right, stock, s10, pinto
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