LUVTruck.com

I just picked up a 1974 luv, no rust, runs/drives for 200 bucks, every once in a while at a stopsign it will like choke itsself out, im thinking its some crap in gas tank or fuel filters need replaced, otherwise just wanted to say hi, and that im sure ill be asking questions and i get into working on the thing, im prob going to be replacing drums in front with discs, imi planning to use stock, what kind of gas mileage are these things supposeed to get? thanks, bryan

mid to high twenty miles a gallon. i think the rating is 32 mpg on the highway (@55)

when i got minefor $200 the cylinder head wasnt even on it! good find

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

i give a little history on the truck, no rust, 32000 miles an old farmer had it in a barn, the kid i bought it from couldnt get it to run right (not mechanical at all) he said so himself) im guessing there is crap in the gas tank im gonna pull it off and clean it out, blow out lines and change filters - i got it so cheap cuz the guy who had its trailer court is closing down to build appartment buildings, and had to get it out of there asap, its a 4-speed, ugliest yellowish color possible, another question, what type of rims will fit the factory 6 bold lugs? i herd chevy 6 bolt will fit, is that true? im gonna try to get some pics on here someday thanks for everyones help bryan

The Chevy 6 lug will work. I quick note, most likley the carb is screwed up, if you rebuild it and it works perfect you will be one of very very very few who did. Best bet is to buy a Weber.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

where can i get a weber?

I dont have much dealings in the 4 cyl LUV's, someone will come along and help you out. You can PM eln1972luv, he is pretty good with the early style engine and just added one to his truck.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

those stock carbs are trash i just swapped my 80 4x4 to a weber, huge difference, different cylinder head but it should be the same setup and kit to put a weber on the old engine since the carb was mostly the same.
the complete swap kit cost me in the range of $300-350 cant remember exactly how much but it comes with a new carb, adapter plates, linkage, gaskets etc. everything you need.
well worth buying, my luv ran like CRAP, put the new carb on and it runs like a champ

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

Check out this thread.

viewtopic.php?f=33&t=21437&p=178034#p178034

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

alright, i pulled off the fuel tank, its was full of rust and junk, blew out the lines, i found out fuel pump was bad added an electric fuel pump, tank is in getting boiled and sealed, im running with with line into a gas can, for some reason it will only run when fully choked, im assuming carp is full of crap and stuck, so rebuilding is not really an option? this weber carb everyone is taking about, is it a good carb for fuel economy? also will it hook up to my factory manifold? also, what is that thing in the box driver side that 2 fuel lines go into?? thanx for any help

Here is info on the brake swap, our fearless leader,Ben was not only cool enough to have this site he did a great job writing it up.
http://www.luvtruck.com/Information/Brake_swap.htm

As far as the carb goes most find them on e bay or on redline. The link I gave you a couple posts up is a post from eln1972, contact him for info. Be carefull on whatcarb kit you get, most info on here is for the later model engine, again eln1972 I am sure will help with part numbers. Tell him I sentyou, he owes me a favor for some parts I gave him, cash in on it. I am sure hewould help anyway.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/category_s/432.htm


thers the site for sum carbs ^^^^^cheapest i can find

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pretty sure thats where i got mine too... you will not be dissapointed!!

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

Answered the PM, thanks for the hat tip Luvrv8.

Check your float level, the fuel pumps on the early engine (the mechanicals) were low pressure so you may be flooding it out? Unless you put in a regulator. Gas should be at the top edge of the etched line on the glass window. Too high, flood rich, too low, bog lean.

The box is fuel vapor recovery (smog stuff). I left mine alone as it isn't causing any problems. Fuel economy depends a lot on how you drive, but the Weber is the only aftermarket carb option unless you want to do something custom. (Ctmandu has put motorcycle carbs on his truck for example). It usually comes down to fabbing a manifold/manifold adapter.

are u supposed to prime the carb or anying, it doesent seem to be getting the gas into the bowl, i messed around with the connection to the gas line and then it was able to pump some into the bowl, but other wise it deosent seem to work, the only reason for electric pump was because no parts store here can even order the manual one anymore and that was there alternative

No it should be self priming. Ebay has mechanical fuel pumps NOS from time to time. I bet there's a vintage hotrod shop somewhere that could rebuild it, but NOS is the best bet. Also check RockAuto, and look at other japanese trucks from the same time period. There were a limited number of suppliers back then and a Mazda, Datsun (Nissan), or Toyota for example might have the same fuel pump and people just aren't listing the part for Chevy LUV. There are other posts on here about how bad parts stores are for our trucks ...

You have to get smart and go above and beyond to own a LUV successfully. Especially if you are going to keep the original engine.

EDIT: Rockauto.com has the mechanical fuel pump for 74 Chevy LUV anyway, just order one. Best to keep these things original and not change design, the Japanese were good engineers but their designs are highly stressed and so if you take one component out of spec the whole system doesn't work.

the pump i got is 2.5 - 4 psi same as factory manual pump, i checked with local toyota/foreign shop along with gm dealership, anyway, i checked the glass window and id ont see a etched line, just a dot in the middle of the glass, the line from the float matches up exactly with the line, im not sure what that means, but there is fuel in there and its feeding fine, the electrical that goes to the pump, there is a harness, i had it running and pulled the plug and nothing changed, i havent got the time to check if there is any current going to them or not. should it run different when unplugged?

electrical to the carb not the pump

Some like my 77 have the etched dot. Either way, the correct setting is the gas level in the middle of the window, so you are good.

Not sure on the electrical. The fuel pump is powered off a relay behind the coil. The alternator must be working. If your ''C'' light comes on, your fuel pump will stop.

c must mean alt bad? mine is working fine? anyway, the things on the carb with electrical going to them, look like some kinds of pumps (im not carb literate) they have a wiring harness on them, that plugs into wiring on firewall i unplug it when its running nothing happens? is that normal?

I used to know exactly what that plug did, I think one pin is for the throttle switch (activates a smog control at WOT), another pin is for another switch, 2 are the grounds for the switches, and 1 is +12 V to the fuel cut-off solenoid. If nothing happens that solenoid may be bad and thus it doesn't run right ... you might 'back probe' the connector to see if there's 12 V. Then you could check continuity on the solenoid.

The Hitachi carbs really are not very good. Mine worked OK , not great (sorry I'm keeping it) but I replaced it with a Weber for simplicity and tunability sake. But if I were you I'd check or have checked that fuel cutoff solenoid.

C could mean Alt bad, but that's not always what it means ... mine came on once when the alt was OK but the voltage regulator was bad.