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 Post subject: Re: Starting issues
PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 11:16 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 30, 2011 6:19 pm
Posts: 45
Location: Trinidad Colorado
Awesome! Thanks guys. I will try the coninuity in cranking position and for sure go bigger on wire


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 Post subject: Re: Starting issues
PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 2:06 am 
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LUVTruck.com Lifer

Joined: Sun May 15, 2005 4:57 pm
Posts: 680
Location: Cornelius Ore
matt1 wrote:
Well I tried a couple things today. First I disconnected the clutch inhibitor switch and connected it to itself but that was not the problem. Cleaned the starter ground wire by pulling it off, wire brisling and cleaning it all up and reconnected it but nothing changed. Check the power at the coil and it seemed ok.

So I am still able to do a roll start but when I turn the key to start I get nothing. The on and acc positions work fine.


You sure you disconnected the correct clutch switch? There are two switches there--one the coasting richer solenoid---the other the clutch start switch. Disconnect it's plug and jumper the wires together.


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 Post subject: Re: Starting issues
PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 7:37 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 30, 2011 6:19 pm
Posts: 45
Location: Trinidad Colorado
I didn't realize the coasting richer switch was there too. I disconnected the one that gets released when the clutch in pressed down. It has green wires and looks a lot like the brake switch. I will look again today to see about the other switch.


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 Post subject: Re: Starting issues
PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 9:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 30, 2011 6:19 pm
Posts: 45
Location: Trinidad Colorado
Didn't see the other switch under the clutch so no new news except that I have decided to take the luv to the shop tomorrow. I am gonna have them figure out the problem and then I will do the work.


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 Post subject: Re: Starting issues
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 6:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 30, 2011 6:19 pm
Posts: 45
Location: Trinidad Colorado
Well I feel somewhat like an idiot. I did look for a second switch on my clutch. There was none and I figured I just didn't look well enough, I took it to a shop to let a real mechanic figure it out and he said after he couldn't find a wiring diagram in the system he just traced wires by hand. Turns out the clutch inhibitor switch was removed and disable by the previous owner and in my infinite wisdom I had removed some electrical tape from some " what I thought" were speaker wires and apparently there was a jumper in the tape that I didn't see. Anyway, mechanic found these loose, connected them and the LUV started beautifully! So basically I am an idiot.

But I feel smarter now.

For what it's worth


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 Post subject: Re: Starting issues
PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 1:41 am 
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lives at LUVTruck.com

Joined: Sun Dec 21, 2008 12:11 am
Posts: 335
Hey Mat!
Glad you found the problem! Look at how many of us got better educated and may help someone else in the future through your experience. The only ones who haven't made a mistake are those who never tried anything!! Good luck, stay in touch/ BTW you live in a beautiful city, named after Trinidad Baca way back two centuries ago!!


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 Post subject: Re: Starting issues
PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 12:53 am 
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Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2011 12:58 am
Posts: 158
i just finished reading this entire post and kind of unusual to hear people ask what the big 3 is...this isnt such an issue with carbureted engines as it is with fuel injected... in most of the fuel injected vehicles i have done this with i have gotten great results generally you get a hotter spark (larger wire = less resistance ie loss of power)

With a larger ground greatly increases throttle response and that feeling of more seat of your pants power... with alternator to battery i always user 4-6ga. car audio wire (its better quality stuff) and matched it with larger grounds... you can never go wrong with more grounds either...

never actually done this with a carbureted engine but i don't see why it couldn't at least help... i mean running larger wires isn't going to cause a negative problem unless you route them through the cooling fan or other non stationary point on the vehicle


as mentioned earlier the big 3 =
alternator to battery positive (+)
battery positive (+) to starter
battery negative (-) to chassis and motor grounding

i wouldn't say that going as far as a voltage stabilizer is needed but it couldn't hurt

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76 mikado, emissions delete, dual alternator, rejetted 1.9 carb swap, non factory body lines
soon non points distributor, single (semi sealed beam) head light conversion


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