LUVTruck.com

I have been talking to this guy (at a used car dealership) who is selling a 79 2wd LUV. He was originally asking $500 for it and i talked him down to $375.

What i need to know is this a good price for what is wrong with it. Here is a list.

1. Needs clutch pedal(and what ever fixtures that cmoe with it)
2. Carb leaks
3. radiator leaks around the top
4. dash has cracks and peeling
5. interior features are missing like the ignition, choke switch, and windshield washer swith(or light switch not sure)
6. has some surface rust around the edges and in the bed.


But the body is very straight

just wondering what everyone else thinks.

thanks

I'd do it in a heartbeat! Straight body and minimal rust are the big selling points. But i would be going for a V-6 or V-8 build platform. So most of that stuff thats bad will be trashed by me anyway. The bad dash is normal and you'll be hard pressed to find one in great condition. Switches and stuff are secondary to me. That means i would be installing a push-button starter switch. Even if you elect to go for a stock running truck, you're gonna spend more to build it than what you inittially paid for it.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

That doesn't sound too bad to me. For the price, all the problems sound fairly minor.

Switches/etc: A 79 should have a light switch under the dash on the left side of the steering wheel, and a wiper switch and ignition on the right side. There shouldn't be a choke unless something has been changed under the hood. Stock it would have an auto choke. These switches and the plastic they mount to should be an easy find in a junk yard, or some of us around here probably have them. If you can find a truck with the key, get the ignition, key, and both door lock cylinders for the optimal fix.

Radiator: The two leakers I've had blew in a tube in the middle somewhere. A leak up top might just be a hose problem, or something wrong with the cap. At any rate, not to expensive or hard to fix for a radiator shop if it is cracked in the upper tank somewhere. Last time I bought a new stock radiator it was something like about $125, so that is your worst case cost to repair. (Plus new hoses, of course, $8 a piece I think) You could probably find some sort of aftermarket aluminum radiator that would also fit and would not be too much more.

Clutch pedal: The bracket the pedal mounts on is pretty flimsy. If all the parts are still there, you are better off getting them welded up and reinforced than replacing the part with a new weak one. It isn't easy getting the bracket out, but it doesn't take much for tools, just persistance. I had to do this in a parking lot on my 79 with just a few tools. I think there is an old thread here detailing repair of the pedal that you could search up. If the parts are not there, this would be another junkyard part, but be careful to get the right year and its worth having it beefed up before installing.

Surface rust: probably a sign it hasn't been painted, at least not in quite a while. Any more major repairs (bondo,etc) are more obvious on a truck with some wear on the paint. If it doesn't have any other obvious repair jobs, I'd look at this as almost a plus.

Carb leaks: Stock carbs will leak around the accelerator pump when it starts to go out. Not hard at all to fix. Other leaks could be gaskets or just bad hose. If you find it has some other carb on it (Weber most likely) then count your blessings. Rebuild kits for either are not too expensive, but the Weber has better power and is easier to work on. (Also costs ~300 for a new one, big plus to the value) If the air filter is a smallish rectangular thing sitting on the carb, you are looking at a Weber carb. Big round metal filter with a snorkle off to the side would be a stocker.

Excuse me, because I have to point out that 800xl is slightly incorrect because sitting in my driveway is an 80 Luv 4x4 w FACTORY hand choke. The cable is mounted in black plastic just below the light switch. I have seen two of this kind in all my years around luvs. the other was a brand new 78 which i PERSONALLY drove off the showroom floor for my employer which at that time was Idaho state Parks Dept.
Now back to what you were asking me........actually $375.00 is very reasonable if it runs good and not a rust bucket, the things u mentioned wrong w this truck are ALL easy fixes
I dont agree w butchering an putting in a V8, especially w todays gas-prices but then thats why I am ME and you are you.
I was lucky enough here couple weeks ago to find an 80 LUV 4x4 in running condition w a PERFECT DASH for a mere $200.00 ( I now almost feel guilty about talking the guy down from $300.00) NOT!!!!!! LOL
Anyway, you can put nearly any kind of key-switch in that truck, go thru the carb( thats a biggy w stock luvs and Why I still get mpgs that i got w brand new Luvs) and youll have a nice truck.
Thanx for lookin me up and asking my personal opinion......I LIKE that!! Hope to hear more from you and your progress w your new Luv, Duane

I kinda doubt the factory choke is truly from Japan, but I keep learning new stuff about 70-80s vintage Isuzu all the time so I can't argue that it isn't possible. I'm just saying that after seeing more than a few LUVs, the only factory chokes I've ever seen were in 72s or 73s. I wonder if they were spec'd like that for some particular reason, high altitude/cold weather duty or something strange like that. From my humble experience though, I'd say look for a Weber at the end of that choke cable. They sold a lot of those carbs with manual chokes over the years and many of them found their way onto LUVs.

Hey, i dont know about the choke, whether it is stock or not. I will be damn sure to find out though.

I just wanted to say thanks to Lil blue, 8ooxl and blue meanie. I don't want to sound like i am kissing ass, but i was in need of some quick answers and advice. And you came through for me.

I am going in tomorrow morning to hopefully finalize the deal.


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I am going to be gone at the National freestyle wrestling tournament, so i will be gone for about two weeks.

Hey blue, save some parts for me! LOL

thanks again

Good luck on the dealing and hopefully you'll soon be wheeling it around. I got to thinking and my Weber carb leaked from its accelerator pump rather profusely when I got it. More that I've ever had come out of a stock carb really. http://www.carbs.net has the parts for them and fixing it was four screws and about 15 minutes of my time. Whatever the carb ends up being, I doubt the leak will be anything to serious and will give you a place to start working on right away.

One tip, pick up a repair manual. The factory manual is best bet, but the Haynes manual you can find at most auto parts shops is really pretty good and worth the $10-15. It will help a lot as you work on things to have some sort of guide handy.

Yes the factory choke on these luvs was a ordering option in high-altitude and cold weather states.Like I said i 1st started getting into Luvs in 1978 in Idaho, hence cold weather and hig altitude both.
The only other truck I saw w this factory choke (as i said Ive seen two) was in Colorado. hope that helps clear things up a lil bit and i apologize if i wasnt clear enough on this at first.

That would explain it and being over here on the west coast I don't see many from that far east. (and UP ) My current driver is originally from Utah, but it came looking west coast normal other than having factory AC, not too commonly an ordered option here in Oregon. (Not in those days at least)

Just so you know....i got the clutch peadle assby welded -in place- for $20 bill and a beer and i didn't even know the welder. just pull the sound padding away from the firewall behind the bracket and don't worry about the boot.

as far as what the truck is worth...it all realy depends on how much time you really want to put into fixing what you know is wrong and what else may happen in the long run.

take a look around the site at other common problems people have with there truck,cause if it can go wrong.........

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I bought mine non-running for around $250, but I've seen them running but rough for as high as $1000. The main concerns are obviuosly rust and the body condition. As you probably know, the floor boards always rust out, but this is usually not too big of a problem if you know a good welder. Fortunately, we're not talking about a Camaro or anything like that. Some people like to think they really have something and will ask more $$$. Sounds like you found a decent deal, jump on it!

Well did you get the truck? inquiring minds wanna know

Sorry about the wait on if i got the truck or not.

I am at a training camp for cadet and junior nationals.(wrestling) so i have been away from home. But i have found internet access at the university and will post until i leave for Fargo in two days.


I did not get the truck, i went to finalize and the guy never showed. :evil: I couldn't wait any longer because i had to be at the university.


IT SUCKS!!

I will keep you all posted on whether i find any thing new or not.


thanks for all your help, again.