Make sure you have all the wires hooked back up to the stock carb correctly after the re-build. They have an anti-dieseling solenoid to prevent the very symptom you described. There is the electric choke, the solenoid, possibly more that need reconnected. Yes, Weber carbs are available online, webercarbsdirect & redline are two good direct sources, places like Summit Racing sell them plus they are all over ebay from lots of independent suppliers. Just be careful it's actually a Weber, there are knock-offs out there. The K696 kit with the 32/36 DGEV electronic choke is probably the best choice. The main difference in a Weber is the throttle response. Webers are manual secondary, stock carbs are vacuum. As you apply throttle at a set point the manual linkage opens the secondary & adds more fuel mix, no matter the engine rpm. With the vacuum secondary the engine must come to a high enough rpm to produce enough vacuum to open the secondary & add more fuel mix. It's best to add a fuel pressure regulator, Weber recommends 3psi max fuel pressure, stock fuel pumps are rated 4-7psi.
_________________ '78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78. '87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.
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