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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 9:19 pm 
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Location: Garland Nebraska
My Brother told me to replace the fuel filter. Did that.
It will run for awhile and then stop. Start it back up and then it will stop.
The longer between starts the longer it runs.

If I keep my foot on the accelerator it won't stop.

Any suggestions?

Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 10:19 pm 
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da LUV masta

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The fuse box. &^%$##(*&^%#*&^ The pieces are riveted together. They corrode leading to flaky connections. Since I soldered them about 5 years ago, my 77 has run better than when it was only a few years old.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 9:21 am 
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Location: Garland Nebraska
What would it run like if the fuel pump was going bad or is bad?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 2:16 pm 
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Does the engine get to warm up? It could be a coil too. If it's bad, it could be heating up and get to a temperature where any shorts might be showing up. Also, pop the top of the air filter off and watch the fuel as it flows into the carb while running. If it appears to slow down you may have a clog right at the carb. Mine has a screen where the fuel line attaches to the carb and it looks stock. Another part is the fuel pump could be petering out as it runs too. Many different things to check, so keep us informed as to what you have done so far with details. That way we can find and get rid of that little gremlin together!!!

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 1:50 am 
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Location: Clovis, NM
well mine has been doing the same I figured it was the coil so i went up to pull n save got a new one. will put it in tomorrow. I also was wondering if it could be the points?

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 9:51 am 
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Location: Garland Nebraska
Here is what I have done to the LUV since I got it 2 weeks ago.

Replaced distributor cap
Replaced rotor
Replaced spark plug wires
Replaced points
Replaced valve cover gasket
Replaced fuel filter

I the front end up on ramps while I was doing this and I also had to patch a hole in the exhaust.
While it was up on the ramps it would run for about a minute and then stop. The longer I waited in between starts the longer it would run.
I took it down off of the ramps 2 days ago. Now it will ony run for about 10 seconds at a time if that.
The engine doesn't have time to warm up so I don't know if it can be anything but fuel not getting to it. But I obviously don't know what is wrong or I would be asking everyone here for help.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 9:56 am 
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do u have fuel in the float? most people overlook the little screen filter in the carb. i bet if u clean it out it will run.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 10:02 am 
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Haven't checked that, but I haven't had much time to look at it. I'm pretty new to this, can you give me a description as to where that is?


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 10:14 am 
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Location: Great Falls, MT
When it dies check the site glass on the front of the carb. If there is no fuel in it then you might have a fuel delivery, (pump, filter, carb float issue}. When starting the truck with the key engaging the starter the fuel pump is energized and pumping. When the engine starts and you turn the key loose to the run position the fuel pump is energized from the Generator to the regulator on the passenger fender and then from there to a relay under that panel on the passengers side fender by the firewall, to the fuel pump. This was safety features. To check the problem you can always just wire the fuel pump to a toggle switch and bypass all that other stuff to see if the engine keeps running. If it does then you might have a bad relay, regulator or a bad wire in the mix. There is an adjustment on the regulator but I have never had to mess with mine. Like I said those were safety features to kill the engine if you were in a wreck that way the fuel pump didn't keep running.

As CHEVYLUV1980 pointed out, Check the coil also. If it's bad it doesn't always have to heat up to the HOT status. It can kill the truck if it gets warm if it's going bad. When the truck dies pull a spark plug wire and check for a spark.

Let us know what you find.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 12:25 pm 
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Hot wire it. Mine quit on my daughter 100 miles or more from home one night. Among other things, I took a wire with alligator clips on both ends. Clipped one end to the batter terminal and the other to the + terminal of the coil. Made it home just fine.

If it runs hot wired, you have a wiring problem.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 10:07 pm 
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Ok, Just checked to see if the fuel pump was pumping and it is.

Took the little screen filter in the carb off and cleaned it.

Still have the same problem.

Runs for about 10 seconds everytime and then dies.

There is fuel in the glass in the front of the carb.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 11:19 pm 
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Location: Clovis, NM
i was having the same problem i looked at my fuse box changed everything and one of the fuses wasnt even getting power so i jsut use a little wire hooked it to a good one and then it fired right up ill try and get a picture of it tomorrow night.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 3:48 am 
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Location: Sonora, CA
Watch all these unfused jumper wires... a buddy of mine had his truck burn in front of the school because he didn't do his wiring right. The truck was a total loss. I'd hate to see another LUV up as a parts truck for that reason.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 9:09 am 
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Next weekend I'll check itI was going to go out to pull n save to look for a new fuse box hopefully I'll find one :)

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 11:51 am 
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Does the fuel level remain steady in the glass or does it seems to run low once the truck is running? As was mentioned before, the pump could be engaging only while cranking and then shutting down once the ignition switch is in the run position. Thus you are only burning the gas in the carb. Make sense? Just had that glitch with mine and I was forced to run a wire right to the pump, from the fuse box, to keep it going.

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Loranger, La
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 12:04 pm 
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Location: Garland Nebraska
chevyluv1980 - That's a good question. Where should the fuel level be? It's kind of hard for me to look at this stuff by myself. By the time I start it up and get out to look at things the engine has just about stopped.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 12:19 pm 
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If you have a window, the level should near the mark on the middle. Mine has a etched dot. I have seen pictures with 2 scribed lines. Once the engine quits, the level should still be where it was when the engine quit.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 12:34 pm 
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the fuel level in the window is pretty much at the bottom of the window. Maybe it is a fuel pump problem. Could the fuel pump just be going bad and only works while cranking? I hate to think that it is a wiring problem. It was running fine about 2 weeks ago. Ok, not fine, but it wouldn't stop running completly.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 8:00 pm 
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Turn the key to the run position (don't start the engine) and get near the fuel pump. You should be able to hear it running as it makes a repetative thumping sound. If you hear nothing, the pump is not getting power. Something I do NOT recommend, but could be tried, is to put your hand on the pump, as it is quite easy to get to, and have someone crank the engine. (Just dangerous to be under a vehicle while starting it) While cranking, you should feel the pump vibrate if it is working. And as mentioned above, once the key is in the RUN position, it should keep vibrating.

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Loranger, La
1980 Stepside LUV (Again)


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 8:18 pm 
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I took the fuel line coming out of the pump off and cranked the engine. Shot fuel all the way to the back tire. I guess that means it's working when cranking, but that doesn't necessarily mean it is working in the run position. I'll try turning to the the run position and listening to it.


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