LUVTruck.com

the march 2003 issue of drag racer (or maybe drag racing) has a good article on nitrous. it walks you through what is happening during the whole process. timing. airflow. etc..

this is mainly info on the technical part of the combustion chamber,and stuff like that. It wont tell you what kit to buy and how many ponies to shove down the throat.

i found it interesting. it did say the "horsepower" is how much work your engine can do in a given amount of time. I know there has been some debate going on to this. Njoy.

g

I got it a few days ago but haven't read it yet.
I would like to comment on Nitrous.

If you stay in the manufactures guidelines and follow some systems safety percautions you should have great results.

I have lost my mind and purchased another NOS system for my Luv. The current Sniper system will serve as stage 1 and be activated in first gear only. A cheater system will supply the juice for 2nd and 3rd gears. I will be able to come off the line with 50 to 175 HP. The Shifter will activate stage 2 at 100 to 250 HP. I am planning on starting with 75 HP jets in stage 1 and 150 HP in stage 2.

Lack of fuel pressure is the most common cause of disaster so I have purchased the recomennded saftey fuel cut off switch. If there is not enough fuel pressure the nitrous will not activate. I also believe a oil pressure switch should be added in the circut. I ran a 100 HP fogger system on a VW rail buggy in the 80's with no problems.The engine was far from stock but this was a large dose for a small engine. I used a oil pressure switch because of hill climbing but it is a good idea for any system.
A wide open switch should be used also this will keep you from activating by mistake or untill the engine is ready for it. These in my opinion are the minimum needed saftey other than the switch turning the system on to begin with.
I also have a MSD window switch set for 3000 so it will not come on untill the selected RPM.
I am planning on keeping my truck streetable so I do not want to go real wild with the engine and for the occasional trips to the strip I am going to let the Nitrous make up the gap.

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stripped and just a memory!

thanx for the input RAT. so I have a question. the "window" switch is probably the answer. I am set up with the sniper with just about every safety device I think neccessary, WOT, fuel cuttoff, etc. when I stuff the pedal at an idle fully armed, I get the N20 shot regardless of rpm ,and it sounds like this switch wont allow it to kick in till the rpm youve selected.

right?

Ive read about the dangers of too much N20 at low rpm's and was searching for a remedy. Is this it?

Will this work with the Digital 6?

thanx

g

The window switch solves that. I have a 3000 rpm pill for a start and untill it hits 3000 it will not come on no matter what ! I have off set at 200 rpm's less than the rev limiter. The Sniper is a good kit and I compared the plate and cannot tell any difference between the cheater and sniper plate. A couple of solenoids and a bottle valve is the main difference. We counted the holes and measured the size of the holes and they are the same. The sniper bottle valve is limited to 175 HP but the cheater came with the same size supply line. I can't wait to try it all out.
I just got back from getting the bottles (one for each Stage) filled.
It also says to use a single plane intake for larger shots so I am fixing to change that shortly. I noticed this in the cheater instruction but not in the sniper instructions. I also called NOS and got the jet sizes for 50 and 75 HP and if you can jet the cheater to 50 you could do the same with the Sniper.
I don't know about the digital 6 but I have a MSD tech book ordered and can probably tell you next week.

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stripped and just a memory!

Ok, so is your bottom end (crank, rods etc) built any stronger. Are you running stock. are you worried youll break someting.

Im going to jet my bottle for max at the strip, 125 i think- not sure, and am wondering about breaking something. My bottom end is a basic 10:1 350 rebuilt kit from PAW.

what did u do to run that much N20?

If you dig enough on the NOS website when they say 140 horse limit on stock engine they are talking about a small block. Big Block is around 200 horse on a stock engine. I have ARP main studs and rod bolts and will probably go no higher than the 210 HP jets on the 2nd stage but will start at 150 and see what happens. I have no idea what it will run and have a lot of tuning to do but you never know it might see the 250 jets once.

Did you happen to see the nitrous article last month Chevy High Performance March. I am not out to destroy the engine in it now but it should handle an occasional trip to the strip and if it doesn't we can build it stronger and bigger next time. I have already purchased TRW forged pistons for the next engine and saving for the rods.

The Sniper has a Max of 150+ as they list it in the instruction. If you check every other kit they sell this is the 175 hp jets but they call it 150+.
I also talked with the local nitrous dealer and he says 175 is the max the sniper valve can flow.It comes with 100,125 and 150+ jets and you can purchase 2 jets and get the 50 and 75 hp settings.

The cheater list 100,125,150,180,210 & 250 hp

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stripped and just a memory!

sounds about right. i plan on strokin the 350 late fall and will do it early with whaterever parts are left if i chunk this one. I dont Want to break anything either, but feel like pushing the limit for one or two good runs down the strip.

later

i run a nos cheater system 150 hp shot i never had any problems i use a button on the shifter juice it rt out of the hole all the way down the strip i use a holly blue pump just 4 the nos side and a bottle heater keep it bout 1100 temp works just fine been runnin that system for 8 years now only ate 1 motor when the old fuel pump went bad

right on, that makes me feel better.

No fuel is instant death with Nitrous. My main concern is fuel and I will not run the bottle without a safety switch on the fuel line.$35.00 is a cheap price to save a engine!
I have a fuel cell with 2 outlets and plan on adding the 2nd fuel line and pump but I am going to try it on one line and the one blue pump for now. If it does run out of fuel the pressure switch will just turn it off and I will run slower. I have my intake plumbing done and ready to go on but my dad is in the hospital so I can't fool with it for a while.

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stripped and just a memory!

wow i cant wait untill i get my 327 in my luv so i can about nitrous whith you guys

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1980 LUV 4x4, going under re-construction...