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Alrighty this weekend im fixing my oil leak. Its off the front cover so i have to pull the pan and the head. So my big question is, how do you get the timing set back to where it should be. I seem to remeber something about counting out chain links and lining them up whith timing marks so it is set properly when tension is aplied. Is this corect? Could someone shed some light on this for me? Thanks.

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1980 LUV 4x4, going under re-construction...

set #1 to top dead center...
set #1 on head to compression stroke
if cam needs no retarding place chain on cam and crank
Good to go
make sure distributor is at #1 position
fine tune when engine running, vacume advance disconnected

or, you could do what i did and just line up the little marks on the crank and the cam, it should be in the haynes manual under engine reassembly.

alrighty then, i wasnt shure about lining up chain links too. Thanks.

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1980 LUV 4x4, going under re-construction...

wel, there is only one way the timeng gear can go on teh cam, so get the crank all lined up, adn then line up the line on the cam with the line on the head.

Just make sure the cam is in the right neighborhood before bolting the head down. Valves and pistons don't mix, even turning things over by hand. I try to have things lined up to something recognizable before pulling the head just to make it easy to bolt back up or I don't move the cam or crank with the two not chained together.

yeah ill just line up the timing marks and static time it like a new motor. I just seemed to remeber counting links on my timing chain when i redid the motor for something and whanted to make shure.

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1980 LUV 4x4, going under re-construction...

Looks like I got here a little late. What everybody said is true. One you can do is after you have the timing cover off you can manually turn the engine to a point to where you can mark it by putting a scribe on the head or block. I always put mine where there supposed to be, exactly in line. That way there is no guess work, cause like the man said, pistons and valves in the same place at the same time is not a good thing.

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I want to be different like everybody else.

yeah i just lined up the marks and made shure there was tension on the chain when i installed it so it would walk araound any. But the fun part was torquing the head down I was using my factory shop manual for some reason and it lists NM torque then FT-LB in parenthasys. Well i ended up torqueing the head to 80ft-lb, 8ft-lb over. But i was running through an extension so its probly not too bad. I didnt whant to back it off becouse the head gasket is already crushed to 80ft-lb. Oh well we will see if that makes it take a dump or not. Luckilly i have the motor from my 78 in the shop if it does get all messed up but it shouldnt

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1980 LUV 4x4, going under re-construction...