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PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2016 7:05 pm 
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Hello, I'm relatively new to posting on forums so forgive me if all of this is been said and done already (which I'm sure it has) but I just can't seem to find it I have a 72 Luv which I'm told has a different version of the 1.8 than any other year of the luv. So here's my question 1 is there a different transmission that will bolt up to the 1.8 so I'm not near maxed out at 55 and and 2 is there any point in building the original 1.8 or should I just do the 350 swap? if I do build the original 1.8 (bigger bore, performance cam, headers, performance carb, etc.etc.) what is the average the gains I will get over the stock motor (which I think is around 70-80hp)? Any info will be greatly appreciated. :D


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2016 9:29 pm 
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Hi. Welcome

There are 2 versions of the 1.8. The 72-75 and the 72-82. All had 4th gear ratios of 1:1 so swapping transmissions won't do much for you.

You can swap the rear end (or just the carrier) to get a little more speed for your RPMs. All 4x4 luvs had 4.10:1 gears. Some years had 3.73:1. The 4.10 will likely be easier to find but you never know what's out there.

Bear in mind that these motors are designed to run and make their power at higher bands so swapping in 3.73s will give you more top end speed, but it'll also limit your power.

I'm a fan of doing a 350 or even a 4.3 v6 conversion. The parts are plentiful and the return you get on your investment is higher.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 7:08 pm 
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Which one do you think would be easier/cheaper? the 4.3 or the 350 swap?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 7:23 pm 
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Also there's a '68 chevy 350 sb that runs and comes with everything (mounts, flywheel, starter, coolant pump, headers, distributor and alternator) for $400 which I figure is a decent price. Would that work with the luv kit?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 7:32 pm 
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The luv would require custom mounts and headers, so it's not likely what you would get in that deal would work.

powerbyace.com makes v6 and v8 mounts and headers. You'd also need a better radiator, custom driveshaft, etc.... You can also get hooker mounts and headers, or make your own mounts if you're savvy.

Either way, it's not a quick or easy job, you just have to determine what's right for you skill level and budget. A lot of guys here are plenty happy with the stock motor.

Check out some info here on the v8 swap. http://www.luvtruck.com/pdf/EngSwap.pdf


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 10:20 am 
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if you build the 1.8 even with bore cam carb better ignition etc etc dont expect 200hp it just wont happen and if it does it will for about 10 miles. Check ozgemini.com if you are serious about 1.8 power

Nothing wrong with the 1.8 i miss the mileage. Not the gutlessness.
That said i love my 4.3 and the power it makes. I never had it run stock so im not sure how stock 4.3 vs stock 1.8 compares but mine is a ton of fun around standard 350 power. It is expensive and time consuming to swap a v6 or a v8 but if you want real reliable power its pretty much the way to go.
Like was said above you need mounts. Driveline. Radiator and likely some fabrication to make it fit. Headers and full exhaust. Transmission. And about 100 things that will turn up.
The parts are out there. The headers are pretty expensive, i modified s10 headers to fit mine. Powerbyace has mounts and headers that work together. I think hooker still does too. You dont want to get the hooker mounts and PBA headers or the other way around you want the ones that are designed together
Factor in several thousand dollars regardless of which way you go.
You can have- cheap, fast, reliable. Pick two. Having all 3 doesnt work.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2016 5:09 am 
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The gutlessness is kind of annoying but I can live with that I suppose. What I can't live with is not being able to drive it other then around town because it barley pushes 55mph. So driving on the freeway is out of the question. Which means I wouldn't be able to take it to my camping spot or any good hunting or fishing spots.etc etc I guess what I'm truly after is finding a way to get rid of the incredibly low gearing


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2016 5:11 am 
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Also does anyone know of where I could get a bed for it? Or if one from a toyota or similar small truck would retro fit on?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2016 8:39 am 
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"I guess what I'm truly after is finding a way to get rid of the incredibly low gearing"
Either run larger diameter tires on the rear or swap the rear 3rd member for one with a different ratio. Your truck most likely has 4.56 gears, about '76 or '77 the standard gear ratio became 4.10s for manual trannies, 3.73s for autos. When the diesels came along after '81 some of them used 3.73 & 3.42 gears in the 2wd Isuzu P'UPs. Any of these 3rds through at least '89 are a direct bolt-in with the exception of maybe two stud lengths and maybe the flange bolt diameter. Different gears will lower rpms at a given speed but will also lower the power, if your engine isn't making enough power you still may not be able to drive a freeway speeds.
A quick way to test is to borrow a couple of larger diameter tires/rims than what you are currently running & go for a test drive, see if you can keep up with the traffic flow & how the power feels. Try different diameters, eventually you'll find a size that's just too big. IF you find an acceptable tire size then calculate what gear ratio is needed to give the same conditions with your current tires. Your speedo will register slower than your actual speed with larger tires, so watch getting a speeding ticket. You can correct your speedo with a driven gear with fewer teeth.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2016 9:28 am 
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MrFlynn wrote:
The gutlessness is kind of annoying but I can live with that I suppose. What I can't live with is not being able to drive it other then around town because it barley pushes 55mph. So driving on the freeway is out of the question. Which means I wouldn't be able to take it to my camping spot or any good hunting or fishing spots.etc etc I guess what I'm truly after is finding a way to get rid of the incredibly low gearing

How many more fishing and hunting spots will you find while driving those 35 mph back roads that lead to your old favorite spot at the end of the freeway? I saw way cooler places on my Honda 100 than I did on my GS1100...


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2016 5:41 pm 
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rodburner wrote:
MrFlynn wrote:
The gutlessness is kind of annoying but I can live with that I suppose. What I can't live with is not being able to drive it other then around town because it barley pushes 55mph. So driving on the freeway is out of the question. Which means I wouldn't be able to take it to my camping spot or any good hunting or fishing spots.etc etc I guess what I'm truly after is finding a way to get rid of the incredibly low gearing

How many more fishing and hunting spots will you find while driving those 35 mph back roads that lead to your old favorite spot at the end of the freeway? I saw way cooler places on my Honda 100 than I did on my GS1100...

Xr or xl100?

You can swap in a 5 speed that is i think 14% o/d.
Get bigger tires. Hunt down a 3.42 diff and get better gearing but then you dont have the power to maintain speed up a hill on the highway...

You can meet in the middle of power and gears and get an isuzu 2.6 or 2.3 4 cyl and 5 speed trans. With a 2.6 you have to get the carb'd intake and a few parts from the 2.3 because a 2.6 is efi. That way you have about 45 more hp reliably and a 5 speed. So when you finally find a 3.42 diff you will be all set. Easier swap than a v6 or v8. It more or less just bolts in.

I have a fairly mild 4.3 in mine with a s10 5 speed. Stock 4.10 4x4 gearing in back. Gearing was barely better than stock with the 5th. So i have 30x9 rear tires now for gearing and grip. It still isnt "ideal" im around 70 at 3000rpm vs 55 before. Stock tires were about 24.5 so i have 5.5 more inches of rear tire to get where i am.
The tires equate to a gear change from 4.1 to 3.35... + 5th gear. Giving some margin for eerrr and saying stock is 25 still only lands at 3.42. Takes a lot of tire to gain usable ratio im on 30s in back with no lift i wouldnt go bigger.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 7:24 pm 
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Drive a 58 HP C223 diesel 4x4 for a while. Then you'll truly know "gutless"!

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 11:15 pm 
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My dirtbike makes 56hp i cant imagine driving a truck with that power.

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2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 8:03 am 
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Xr or xl100?

Lol I'm way older than that. It was a 1971 SL100 in orange..


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