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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 12:08 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2011 9:41 pm
Posts: 88
Location: Portland, OR
I have been doing prep on my LUV for about 2 months now, i am about 100 hours and 1500 dollars deep into this project and want to see a finish that will reflect that. So far I have in chronological order:

1. Removed all trim, mirrors, bumper, etc.

2. Stripped the entire body down (door jambs included) to bare metal, I started with chemical stripper and made sure to seal off seams and what not. I then DA sanded it with P80 grit, and finally I went over all of the very rusty spots with a steel wire drill fitted brush.

3. I hammered high spots on the body in with a hammer so that they were just slight indents rather than bumps (how they became bumps, I do not know?). I then filled all of the dents with bondo making sure to clean the surface with wax/grease remover before filling.

4. inserted heavy guage wire between the rubber window seams so as to create a lip where fresh paint would not have otherwise been able to reach.



Now, I have encountered some problems and made some mistakes that I had to learn the hard way about. My number one concern as of right now is concerning my air compressor. It is a 11hp briggs and straton on a 30 gallon tank, it runs excellent. However the electric ignition system has been removed so I have to use a jump-start box to get it running (this works fine, but I have to wait for the jump-box to charge-up every time I need to start it. and that is a problem when I plan on using it for HVLP.) I was told by the guy I purchased it from that all I would need to do is rig up a solenoid and get a battery. Can anyone here explain how I would go about doing that? Also, the compressor has recently had a problem where it will shut off at around 70psi, it used to shut off at 150psi. I tried to fiddle with the pilot valve but so far have not had any luck. I want to know if there is a way that I could by-pass the pilot valve on-off feature and just make the compressor run continuously, blowing off excess air from the safety blow-off valve when needed. that way I would not have to worry about the compressor shutting off in the middle of spraying.

Another problem I have had is flash rust, every where my finger oils touch turns a pinkish hued rust spot, I am currently going back over the entire truck to get it all off (I am wearing disposable gloves now). I have a bottle of rust mort that I planned on using for the really bad rust spots. My question is, would it be a bad idea to coat the entire truck in rust mort so as to take care off flash rust and worst rust, I have read that it should not be used in places where there is no rust, so would this be a bad idea?

Also, what is the best way to remove the exterior door handles??!?!?!

My camera is charging, pics will come soon.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 3:23 pm 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 8:56 pm
Posts: 426
Location: Auburn, WA
Use Gibbs Oil or Blue Lightning to prevent flash rust.

I've used rust mort before but I didn't paint over it. Check to see what they say about painting over it before applying. I doubt the P-Sheets for the paint you get will specify going over the rust mort but it may work.

Sounds like you are leaving the windows in. With the effort you've gone to thus far, pop them out too.

Good luck and can't wait to see the pictures.
Eric Q.

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'75 body with '82 diesel running gear
My build thread.


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