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PostPosted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 2:26 pm 
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PITA Old Fart

Joined: Thu May 22, 2003 8:33 am
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I think you should maybe just get the head milled a tiny bit to straighten it up, replace the valve guides, clean up the valves and the head a bit, put it all back together, and run it till it blows up.

IMHO..completely rebuilding or buying a rebuilt head to go on an old tired engine block is a waste of time and $$.

There are a lot of good solid used engines available to replace it when it goes...and rebuilding your old engine would probably really open up a can of worms for ya.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 5:02 pm 
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If you spend less time taking pics and used that time working on your truck you would have been done by now.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 5:33 pm 
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da LUV masta

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The difference between a half job on the head and a complete rebuild won't be that much. I have seen no evidence of problems with the rest of the engine. With a new head gasket and reground valves, you could be good to go for years. I redid mine 5-10 years ago and it is still going strong. True I don't put many miles on mine, but they are almost all stressful short trips. I may yet buy Punkin's roller and put my engine in it.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 9:10 pm 
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Hey guys,

Sry for taking forever to post more progress. Been busy with other stuff recently.

So there's been a couple changes since I last logged on. First off, I convinced my landlady to let me keep the truck in her garage until wednesday; so that helps ALOT, :ebiggrin . Also, the new head won't work I found out. So I've taken my old head to a local machine shop to get the valves redone and the face resurfaced. The valve job will cost me $175 and the resurface will cost $60 for a total of $235. Should be done by Tuesday evening or Wednesday morning the guy said, so I'll have to really move when it gets back... :o

The guy at the shop said that more than likely what happened when it overheated was initially, with the bad radiator, it ruined the head gasket. By the time I replaced the radiator it was already too late. It most likely was overheating still because of the obstruction in the coolant flow from the bad head gasket and the hot unburned coolant in the cylinders. He also said that the coolant passages in the old head weren't blocked, so hopefully when I put it all back together Wednesday it one overheat any more!!

Haha, ya, I took so many pictures mainly so I'll remember where everything goes. I figure it would probably take me longer to finish it up if I hadn't taken the pics because I'd prolly have to look up online where something I forgot goes. Besides, hopefully the pics will help someone else later on too. :wink:

So Saturday I started removing the alternator by pulling off the lower radiator hose from the water pump.

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Next I removed the bolts that held the alternator on.

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I screwed the bolts back into the alternator bracket.

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And unplugged the alternator cables.

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Then I removed the battery.

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Tried removing the header, but it kept moving around and I ended up breaking a bolt on one of the exhaust brackets.

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So I took a motorcycle tie down, wrapped it around the header, and hooked it up to the battery bracket then pulled it tight. Haha, it seemed to work alright. :lol:

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Finally got the header off.

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Noticed a small hairline crack in the header. Must be from extreme heat.

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Pic of engine so far.

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Next I got a wire wheel and a drill and ran it against the block's mating surface. Made it nice and shiney, :ebiggrin .

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What's this number mean? Jw.

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Removed alternator bracket for clean up.

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Pic of engine after cleaning it up a bit. Looks alot better, :ebiggrin .

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Removed the carb and a vacuum line.

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Pic of how the vacuum lines connect to the air cleaner housing. Just for future reference. :wink:

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I cleaned up the header, header heat sheilds, intake manifold, air cleaner housing, and its lid then painted them with high heat spray paint.

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Also painted the new head (still thought I was gonna use it then).

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Thats when I discovered the extra (coolant/fuel pump?) port in the new head. Dang it, can't use it after all. :(

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After pics of parts with paint.

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Thinking that I might spray shiny clear coat on the air cleaner housing lid.

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Next I started disassembling the old head. Removed the air pump mounting bracket.

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Attempted to remove the air injection rail, but I couldn't get it off. I think the carbon deposits are holding it tight.

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I removed the valve train. It was on a little tight.

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And pulled the camshaft. I wrapped both the cam and the valve train in newspaper to protect them. :)

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After this I took the head into the machine shop. Luckily the guy said he could get the air injection rail off no problem after cleaning it. :ebiggrin

Thats as far as I've gotten so far. I'm gonna buy an oil pan gasket tomorrow. Then I can pull the pan and get that stupid washer out that fell into the engine while removing the cam gear tomorrow while the heads in the shop.

Really hope I'll get the truck done by Wednesday, the landlord's getting antsy. She said, "Have it gone by Thanksgiving." Wish me luck!! :esurprised

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 10:21 pm 
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da LUV masta
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Location: Tomball, Texas
You're doing great Brian!
Looks like you are learning a lot as you go. Not very many young people even care to learn about engine mechanics anymore.
I am glad that you went to the trouble of taking all of those pictures - it will help me out when it comes to reconnecting all of the vacuum hoses on my son's truck. (I didn't take pics...)

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 11:47 pm 
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You can use that G200 head, that hole is for a mechanical fuel pump. Since your truck already has an electric fuel pump, just put a block off plate in place. Just like you would on a small block chevy when deleting the Mechanical fuel pump. you could have made a block off plate for less than $10 and an hour of your time to make at the most. You would probably be putting your truck back together by now and would have saved $235...

Just my .02

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 1:25 am 
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Location: Estes Park, CO
A block off plate you say? How would I make one? Just out of aluminum sheet metal or something? I've never done any metal work or welding before, although I do have access to a welder. Could you maybe post a pic of one? I would feel like a dumb a$$ if I just wasted $235 that I had to borrow from my parents... :oops:

Everyone was saying it was a bad idea to use the new head. I guess could someone please explain to me in more detail what specifically could happen if I use/used the new head? I heard people say it will increase compression because of the tighter valve springs and blow my bottom end, then others say it will reduce my compression because of the increased cylinder volume which could possibly cause it to run crummy. Seems like complete opposites, but both sides say don't use it. Which of these is true? How exactly would the new head negatively affect the rest of the engine? I need someone to explain it to me... :econfused

No matter what, I'll end up selling one of 'em to get some money back. :roll:

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 7:41 am 
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da LUV masta

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You get that pan off, you will have no doubt it was a good idea. Forget buyers remorse on having the shop redo the head. Use the time it is in the shop to clean everything up and be ready to put things back together when you get it. Reassembly goes much faster and easier with everything including the nuts and bolts clean up and organized. With the pictures of the painted parts, it does look like you are making good use of your time.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 3:48 pm 
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Location: Lost Causes, NM
I will give you 25 bucks for that gauge.

A.j.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 10:15 pm 
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the G200 head is from a 2.0 liter engine, ergo, using a larger displacement cylinder head will lower the compression in the cylinder.

that is why using a g18 head on a g20 block is an instant upgrade. higher compression = more power.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 2:49 am 
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Hey guys,

So I did as much work as I could today. The head won't be done until tomorrow morning, so I'll pick it up and hopefully finish this thing tomorrow!! :ebiggrin

I've decided that I will use the old rebuilt head. Anyone want a freshly rebuilt G200 cylinder head? I'll post in the classifieds and on the Isuzu pup website. :D

So I tried pulling the oil pan today, but I don't think its possible without disconnecting the engine from the transmission. There are two brackets on either side of the rear of the engine which are blocking access to the oil pan nuts. I'd have to take off the brackets which are bolted to the seam between the engine and the tranny which could ruin the gasket. Besides, I have no way to lift the front of the truck. So I'll have to find another way to get that washer out... :econfused

Here are pics of the bracket thats blocking the oil pan nuts (I was laying on the floor on my back to take these, :lol: ).

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Instead of wasting time, I painted more parts.

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Painted battery bay.

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And painted the block and some of its components.

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Painted distributor cap, color looks weird in pic for some reason.

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When I pulled the alternator I accidentally ripped out one of the cables in the plastic connector, so I had to repair the wires to the plastic connector. Luckily I work summers as a computer repair technician, :ebiggrin .

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Reattached the alternator bracket.

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Plugged all the wires back into the alternator.

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Put the alternator back on, screwed the fan and belt sprockets (not sure what else to call em, lol) back on, and put the belt on and tensioned it up.

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Reattached the header, and thats about all I could do at the moment.

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I tried to look down into the engine by the cam chain sprocket to see if I could see the washer, put I can't see it... :econfused Whats the worst that could happen if I can't get it out? I really hope that I'll be able to get it. I was gonna try an extendable magnet, but it would prolly stick to everything else. And a tool grabber isn't much use if I can't see it... Hmmmm.... Any ideas?

Thanks for the info and support guys. :ebiggrin I really hope I'll get it running tomorrow. Otherwise I'll have to wrap a chain around the rear bumper and pull it out of the landlords garage.... 8O Don't wanna have to do that. lol :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 6:11 am 
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Location: Whittier, (So). Cal.
As a last resort for that lost washer..... Place a good sized magnet to the bottom of the oil pan and hope it sticks to it. It can just stay there as long as you want.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 11:43 am 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2009 6:32 am
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I know when I pulled my pan, I didn't unbolt the transmission form the engine. I forget exactly how it works. I do thing there is a plate you have to unbolt.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 11:59 am 
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Location: Estes Park, CO
Haha, a strong magnet? Actually, It'd prolly work alright. I wonder if the washer's small enough to work over to the drain plug with a magnet and have it fall out? Hmmm...

I really wish I had access to a lift or something. Then I'd be able to move around and see more. I tried using the jack from the Saturn, but it was too short. I know I have to take off the skid plate in order to access all of the bolts, but I noticed those brackets connected to the tranny before I even started.

The head'll be done in the next hour, then the fun will really start... :esurprised

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 7:38 pm 
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Location: Salt Lake City
dude, looks like you're getting alot of cosmetic stuff done to it at the same time!

if you haven't already, do an oil change NOW. you need to do it and might as well get it done.


some tips when reassembling everything:

work with major assemblies. ie: build the cylinder head back together, add the carb to intake, then intake to head.

then mate head to block. (don't forget to put the gasket on.... :roll: i almost did that the first time)

connect peripherals like vacuum lines, electrical connections, etc.

leave the air intake housing off until you hear the truck fire. make sure you have the valve cover on and make sure you have the half moon wedges on the head when you put the valve cover on.


one more thing you might consider doing, although this takes a bit of time and patience, is to adjust your valves while you have the head uncovered.(wait until it's back on the block.)

if you have a feeler gauge, and some time (about 30 mins) then you can do it. i highly recommend it. we can talk you through it.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 2:24 am 
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Hey Guys,

Sry to keep you all waiting in suspense (ha, as if :lol: ). Luckily I did get the luv back together AND running; although it still needs to be tuned and etc. I spent all wednesday working on it from 10am to 11pm, but I did get it out of my landlady's garage before thanksgiving. I know it definitely shouldn't have taken that long, but I wanted to get it right the first time. :ebiggrin

I got the finished head back from the machine shop about 9am or so. It looked AMAZING. I see what u mean now, figuarus, in ur post about "after you've finished gawking at the head..." :lol: The guy cleaned it up, ground off all the carbon deposits on the valves, replaced the valve stem seals using the ones I gave him from the Felpro kit, and resurfaced the mating face.

The guy said he had to shave off .014" which he said is ALOT. If it was warped much worse he said I couldn't have used it.

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He had to grind it down into the exhaust manifold stubs... That'll supposedly raise the compression alot, so hopefully the bottom end will hold out... :esurprised

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Sure was pretty tho. :ebiggrin

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After admiring his work, I spray painted it with high-heat, orange vht paint.

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I did a little fancy work with the air filter housing lid. After spraying it flat black, I sprayed orange speckles all over it then put a few coats of clear coat on it.

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Spray painted the radiator with high-heat paint also.

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Attached the carb to the intake manifold.

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Applied some assembly lube to the camshaft bearings.

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Reinstalled the camshaft.

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Then loosely attached the valve train (to allow for adjustments later).

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Reattached the air injector rail. The guy at the shop said he got it off no problem. :)

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Got the intake manifold gaskets in place.

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And attached the intake manifold.

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I ended up removing the hot air transfer tube from the engine bay and reattached it before setting the head back on the block.

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Sprayed the head gasket with copper sealant spray (directions said to and so did the guy at Advanced Auto Parts).

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Placed head gasket on block and sat head down on top of it.

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Didn't have enough hands to take pics of it, but got the bolts before hand and put them within reach, then carefully set the head down on the block being sure that all the stubs lined up and it sat well. I put a light coating of Locktite on each head bolt (to keep them tight later on) then hand tightened the bolts to keep the head in place.

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Used the old fashioned, beam-type torque wrench I bought for $25 at Sears and tightened the head bolts first to 30, then 60, then 72 lbs in the order the Chilton service manual specified.

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Installed the new thermostat.

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Then cut and installed the new coolant/radiator hoses; and reattached the fuel lines.

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I reattached the header and attempted to screw in the hot air transfer tube. That hot air tube was a pain in the butt!! Actually I still don't have it tightened right (slight exhaust leak there).

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At this point I attached the new spark plug wires and, after adding new oil to it with some break-in additive, fired it up to make sure everything was installed and working smoothly. Unfortunately I didn't have time to check the valve clearances (it was already pretty late) so I have to do that still, :roll: . I'm going to attempt to embed a short video clip link here. Let me know if it works. :D

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Heat shields in place. Haha, notice the fresh oil splatters all over the engine compartment from running it without the valve cover on. I'll have to clean that up later, lol.

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Overview so far.

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The vacuum line diagram on the underside of the hood helped ALOT with reattaching all of the vacuum lines. I also came back here to double check against all my pictures. :ebiggrin Unfortunately I broke the hard plastic nipples off of a thingy attached to the intake manifold while cleaning it. I don't know what it is or what its called, so I cant' reorder it yet. Any ideas? I'll try to post pics of it later.

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Pics of engine all back together and running!! WOOT!!!! :ebiggrin :ebiggrin :ebiggrin :ebiggrin

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First time attempting major auto repairs and it appears to be a success!! Although I still have some fine tuning to finish. It's really sad, but I've never timed an auto engine before. I know I will have to buy a timing light and I luckily already have a feeler gauge.

I need to check/adjust the valve clearances. Do I measure the gap in between the rocker arms and the top of the valves? Or the gaps between the rocker arms and the cam? Or both?

I also (hopefully not) will need to adjust the ignition timing after testing with a timing light. Any advice before I delve into that?

I'm also going to replace more of the vacuum lines and replace the black thing that I broke on the intake manifold. It is sticking out of the "front-end (towards the fan)" of the intake manifold and has two vacuum line nipples sticking out of it. One line runs to the carb and the other runs to the EGR valve (I believe). Any ideas what its called or perhaps a part number for it? I tried to describe it to the guys at AAA, but they had no idea. In the vacuum line routing diagram pic (three pics up), its the little thing thats right above the distributor. Anyone know what it is?

Also there is a small coolant leak coming from the underside of the intake manifold I'll have to deal with. Hopefully its leaking from a poor seal of one of the hoses attached to that "T" connector (its coming from that area). Worst case scenario, I stick some stop leak in the system (REALLY don't want to do that, I should be able to find it).

I'm also a little bit worried about that exhaust leak in the header where the hot air transfer tube hooks up. I'm afraid I might have stripped the threads in the cast-iron header. The metal screw-in hose connector doesn't screw in right anymore after I tried wrenching it in the first time. Its leaking exhaust, making the engine sound terrible, and is probably hindering the truck's performance. I was thinking maybe some JB Weld? Any other ideas on how to seal that up if it is stripped?

Last thing. I haven't done anything with the carburator. Do you think that just running some Seafoam through it will be good enough? I absolutely HATE working on carbs (horrible experiences with several dirt bikes) and really don't want to mess with it. Do you think it'd be worth taking it in to the shop to get the carb redone? It needs an alignment and the tires need to be rotated anyway, so I was thinking I might get that done also. Think its necessary?

Sorry for bombarding you guys with questions like that, but I'd really appreciate any feedback or tips. I don't have a dad that'll teach me all this stuff, lol.

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1978 Chevy LUV - Sold :(
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 6:02 am 
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da LUV masta
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Fantastic job Brian!

I've forgotten what it's like to be THAT ambitious... I wish I had it again. :cry:

The video did work.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 1:01 pm 
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Haha, thanks. I hadn't planned on being quite THAT ambitious the last day, but it definitely paid off. :ebiggrin And I'm glad the video works. Ha, at the end of the vid I was pretty happy, :lol: .

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 1:51 am 
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I need to check/adjust the valve clearances. Do I measure the gap in between the rocker arms and the top of the valves? Or the gaps between the rocker arms and the cam? Or both


you check the clearances between the top of the valve stem and the little threaded rod that sits above the valve stem.

if i remember correctly, (and i might be wrong) the clearances there should measure 0.06 for the intake side and 0.10 for the exhaust side.



GOOD JOB!!! :ebiggrin :multi: :multi: :onfire: :smt040 :smt022 :smt026 :smt041


As far as the emissions tube fittings, go to o'reilly's and look in their "HELP" section. you should be able to find the fittings you need there.

BTW, did you recently replace your radiator hose? what is the P/N for it? i need to replace mine again, but don't want to use the same ones i did last time... :roll:

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 8:40 am 
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da LUV masta

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The factory manual says 0.06 intake, 0.10 exhaust, measured cold between the cam and rocker.


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