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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 9:45 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 4:21 pm
Posts: 12
Location: CDA, ID
Well, I guess I am starting my 1980 Luv engine rebuild early lol. Come to find out, its been banging on 3 cylinders for who knows how long. But, its been running descent enough to drive. I changed the oil, and the oil that came out was a thick pasty grety mud. I knew that wasn't good. Pretty dang sure I have a blown head gasket. One of the plugs had a (healy coil? I believe thats whats its called) it was sticking out of the head. So, I was banging on 3 cylinders.

I have been really excited about this truck, because I know nothing about mechanics, but have put together a coupls honda CRX's from the ground up using a manual and about 2 summers of work :).

Right now, I have the valve cover off, I have the exhaust manifold off, I left the carb attached to the intake and just unbolted the intake and slid it back off the head. Right now its 8:24 a.m and balls cold outside, so I have mustard up the energy to finish working on it.

The valvs look good, but the intake gasket and exhaust gasket came apart in sever nifty pieces :) lol.

I have finals tomorrow as I am a college student, but I have a week off till next quarter so I get to start cracking on my luv. This project wasn't suppose to happen now, it was suppose to wait till spring lol. Now, I am in crunch time. I need this engine rebuilt and ready to rock and roll before winter.

Since I allready have the engine tore apart, I might as well get it done right. I am on about $1,000.00 budget. Some things I know that are needing replaced:

1. Front brake pads, Rear drum brakes
2. Rear axle seals
3. New master cylinder
4. Idler arm bushings

Since this muddy thick sticky "oil" was rotting away in the engine, I have some questions I need answered ASAP so i can get some things done. This is going to be my daily driver and I want my luv to last a long time. I want her back to life.

1. Would it be a bad idea to just pull the engine out, strip it down to the block and take it in to the shop and have it cleaned and steamed to get all the nasty thick muddy oil build up out?

2. New pistons, rings, bearings, crank are relativly cheap. Keep in mind I get a 50% County discount at Napa auto parts :)

3. New intake and exhuast manifold. How much would new ones run me?

4. Maybe, a new carb if I can afford it. Might just get a carb rebuild kit for this Hatchi and rebuild the carb. Any thoughts?

5. Should I worry about the tranny? It looks goods. No whines or shifting issues.

Note: I guess my main concern is, just pulling the engine and have it cleaned out so it looks brand new again and then build it back up.

6. Should I go ahead and bore it 30 over? My father says it wouldn't hurt to bore it over. He says I can probably get more life out of it.

Thanks all for your help and support. I won't let my fellow luv gurus down. Just be patient with me. As I am still a child lol (27)


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 12:53 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 4:21 pm
Posts: 12
Location: CDA, ID
Well, I see no replys yet. Must still be at work :) Here is a couple updated pictures on my progress.

1. I got the radiator out.
2. I busted 1 nut on the tentioner from the exhaust pipe to the manifold.
3. I got the intake off with the carb still attached to the intake.
4. I removed the hood.
5. Can someone tell me what sized hex socket the Head bolts are? I need to run to napa and pick up some tools and I need this one.

NEXT:

1. Draining the oil and droping the oil pan
2. Hopefully get the right hex socket to remove my head and get it in the shop today.

REPAIRS I DISCOVERED:

1. I need new battery cables
2. Gonna replace all the hoses. ALL hoses. (Vacum, water, etc.)
3. I figured out why my steering is tight one way and loose the other. Steering rod is poped out of the steering box. Not sure if i can put it back in. Looks likes a retaining pin of some kind is missing...Any ideas? I will try and get a pic of it up.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 3:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 28, 2006 11:54 pm
Posts: 6466
Location: Pelahatchie, MS
I don't do stockers much but basics is basics. First up, Kudo's to trying this yourself. Secondly, a GOOD machinist is your friend. Scout around for some recommendations if you don't have someone already in mind. Cheapest ain't necessarily the best, but the most expensive usually isn't either. Head should be surfaced, this is a must on these engines. As far as boring, a competent machinist can tell 'ya if it is within specs. Same with the crank needing to be turned. If it is within range, save the funds for something else you will need, like a Weber carb, as the stocker is a PITA. Since your budget is a grand, a new intake and header is probably not in the forecast, but would be nice. Can't help with the headbolts, the only stock LUV motors I fool with are the ones I pitch, lol...

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 4:33 pm 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2009 6:32 am
Posts: 548
1. Would it be a bad idea to just pull the engine out, strip it down to the block and take it in to the shop and have it cleaned and steamed to get all the nasty thick muddy oil build up out?

I would at least pull the pan. The front part never drains. Open up everything you can blow air through it.

2. New pistons, rings, bearings, crank are relativly cheap. Keep in mind I get a 50% County discount at Napa auto parts :)

May not be a bad investment.

3. New intake and exhuast manifold. How much would new ones run me?

Really there isn't much a good cleaning won't fix.

4. Maybe, a new carb if I can afford it. Might just get a carb rebuild kit for this Hatchi and rebuild the carb. Any thoughts?

Carbs are infernal devices prone to problems.

5. Should I worry about the tranny? It looks goods. No whines or shifting issues.

Mine has survived 140K of short trips in an area you can seldom go over a half mile without a stop.

Note: I guess my main concern is, just pulling the engine and have it cleaned out so it looks brand new again and then build it back up.

6. Should I go ahead and bore it 30 over? My father says it wouldn't hurt to bore it over. He says I can probably get more life out of it.

I hardly see an over bore adding life, but the stock engine isn't highly stressed. with everything else you are doing, it shouldn't add that much.

Thanks all for your help and support. I won't let my fellow luv gurus down. Just be patient with me. As I am still a child lol (27)


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 6:24 pm 
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LUVTruck.com Lifer

Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2003 11:34 pm
Posts: 773
Location: Caldwell ID
(1) yes. id pull the moter. strip it down and have it cleaned.

(2) if you can get parts for cheep id go to town. new pistons, rings, bearings,and bolts head,rod, and if you can main,

(3) intake dont think napa has that. exhuast manifold thay might have the header.

(4) one word weber.

(5) if its good keep it.. a 5 speed be nice. O get a new clutch set. and the fly wheel terned.

(6).30 over is good. going .30 over will give you a fresh start. will last 100,000+ miles till need rebilt agen.

a good way to go .. get a g200 block and a g1800 head. to make more power..

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 7:35 pm 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2009 6:32 am
Posts: 548
5. Can someone tell me what sized hex socket the Head bolts are? I need to run to napa and pick up some tools and I need this one.

10 mm


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 2:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 4:21 pm
Posts: 12
Location: CDA, ID
Thanks so much for the help fella's. Bear with me, Im new at the whole mechanics thing. Im just good with computers :) But, Im learning a whole heap. Here is my update:

1. No new pics yet, nothing has changed til tomorrow. Gotta finish my up a Final for school.

2. Got a 10mm hex socket to remove my head bolts.

3. Got a hack saw to cut my muffler pipe off. Busted the head off a tension bolt on the exhaust manifold. What can i say, it was rusted on lol.

4. Ordered a WEBBER carb lol. Everyone has been busting my balls about getting a webber carb and throwing my hatachi as far as I can lol.

5. Just picked up: Outer axle seals, master cylinder, drum brakes, front pads.

6. Ordered a new piston and rings kit, also got a brand new crank, grease and bearings.

7. Got a new pipmen arm, and idler arm bushings.

8. The block, Intake and Exhaust manifolds, The head and oil pan are going to the maching shop tomorrow. I will have them all back in about 4 days looking brand new and shiny ready to be painted. Block it going to be neon green and the manifolds yellow. Might keep the whole engine neon green.

9. Picked up a new paint gun and jet black paint with 20% sparkle. Sand paper and all that.

Oh, how and the hell do you take the bed off? I removed all the bolts BUT the 2 behind the wheels. There is 2 bolts behind each wheel and NO possible way of getting a tool on top of the bolt to take the nut off. My only thought was cuting up into the rear wheel wells. But, before I get ahead of myself, I will let my snazy luv guru's give me some insight :)
Thanks all, and I will have a fresh post and pics tomorrow hopefully :)


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 7:22 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 6:46 pm
Posts: 102
I rebuilt my engine too. I got a kit from Partstrain.com for approx. $400. (this included the new crank and pistons/rings etc) Pulling the engine seemed to make it easier to work on for me. It was not all that difficult and it gave me room to do what I wanted with the engine compartment and I painted the engine. I got a weber carb. to replace the original Hitachi (But don't go to webercarbsdirect, I had a bad experience there, they suck).


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 9:51 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 4:21 pm
Posts: 12
Location: CDA, ID
Well, I might have gotten a little too excited about rebuilding my luv lol. I am at a stand still right now. I don't have a cherry picker to lifet the engine out and I don't have an engine stand. Winter is going to hit with a vengance but that will NOT stop my rebuild. I have thermal coveralls a beenie and gloves lol. Day or night, I will do what I can.

I found a shop that will steam clean and soak my black for $40 bucks. He will have the block looking brand new ready for re-paint. Getting the head re-surficed is $65 bucks.

I have been told that buying a engine rebuild kit would be the best way to go since I am rebuilding the entire engine. http://northernautoparts.com/ProductDet ... ductId=883

I won't be able to order this until the 1st of October. So, in the mean time, im going to take apart the body and work on that for the next month. I should have the everything sanded, primared and painted by next month. Then the real fun begins :) Here is an update on all my new parts.

1. Brand new altinater
2. Brand new starter
3. Brand new lime green wires and new plugs gapped at the proper specs.
4. Brand new head gasket set.
5. Brand new valve cover gasket
6. Brand new intake and exhaust gaskets

I was told that I can clean my Intake and Exhaust manifolds myself and they will be painted. What is the best way to get these manifolds nice and clean so I can paint them?

I should be getting my new WEBBER carb some time next week. Im aware of the problem people have been having with the throttle cable bracket, so I will have one made. I still can't get the damn bed off. Those 2 bolts behind each wheel are not accesible at all. I need to know the trick to getting to those. I removed the tires and still there is no access to the bolt so i can remove the nuts. Help? :)

Well, that is all I have for now. Letting my body rest from climbing all around this truck like a jungle gym lol.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 3:01 pm 
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lives at LUVTruck.com
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Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2010 7:03 pm
Posts: 387
Location: hondo tx
the heads of those bolts are hidden under a little bracket or tube that runs from 1 side of the bed to the other side you might have dirt or mud in the pipe and thats why you cant see the bolt i had the same problem but it is there lol stick a wrench inside the tube and there is is..anyways good luck i am in the same boat as you.....my truck is a 1980 chevy luv 4x4 i puleed the engine got the blocked bored 30 over shaved the head 20 thousands and got the crank and cam balanced/polished, bought the matching piston set and now i am trying to get the rebuild kit in order to put it back together my truck has been paint grabber greeeeen!!! and black the out side i do not know wat it will be painted but i got everything that bolts to the motor cleaned up and painted already so i am waiting on the rebuild kit anyways ttyl good luck ima keep checking up on this post if your interested you can look at my post here is the link

grabber greeen is ftw i like is alot lol.....

viewtopic.php?f=33&t=22598

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Chevy luv with a redneck grabber green paint job lol...
these are links to my luvs pics.
http://s922.photobucket.com/albums/ad68 ... v%20truck/

viewtopic.php?f=33&t=22598
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 7:34 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 4:21 pm
Posts: 12
Location: CDA, ID
Well, it has been awhile lol. I got too anxious with my truck. I pretty much have everything out of the engine compartment. The back of the truck is up on stands. 1 rear tire is removed. I hade several people come and look at the bed to see about those "hidden" bolts that are holding the bed on. I was debating about attempting to replace the rear outer axle seals, but i have no grease to repack them lol. I am kind of stuck until the 1st (payday).
I still need an engine stand and will have to rent a cherry picker to get the engine out. Winter is comming with a vengance and it looks like this might be a cold project lol. I'm kind of topsy turvy on whether or not I should repaint it now or wait till after winter. I still need to get the head into the shop and have it reserfaced and buy new gasket set for the head and manifolds.
My main problem right now is i can't really do much for another 3 weeks. Every time I walk outside I sigh because my truck is sitting there begging to be fixed. It is becomming such a hastle to use my gf's car when I have school at night and she works. I'm thinking this truck will be done by no later than Febuary 1st. Minus the paint job.
I have decided to put stacks in the bed like a mini semi, always thought that looked sexy when its done right. Went to a custome mufler shop and they will do the pipeing for $80. I just have to find the mini stacks to go in the back of the bed.
As for the paint, im going with jet black with 30% sparkle. Im filling in the tailgate and instead of "Cheverlet" It will say "JUGGALO" with the LUV symbol below it for "juggalo love". My neighbor has 6 lug camaro rims 14" that he will sell me. He didn't know on a price yet.
Well, that is about it for now. Not much i can do until the 1st. Will keep everyone who is following my thread posted on my progress and updates. :)


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 7:57 pm 
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Addicted to LUV

Joined: Mon Aug 28, 2006 11:54 pm
Posts: 6466
Location: Pelahatchie, MS
When you get those 6 lug 14" Camaro rims, post up some pics...

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 2:20 am 
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LUVTruck.com Lifer
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Joined: Thu May 15, 2008 4:11 pm
Posts: 633
Location: roswell, NM home of aliens
when you replace the rear axle seals, replace the bearings at the same time. this is usually the cause of why the axle seals are leaking. the bearings get worn out and give some play and then in turn wear the seal out.
you dont need grease to repack them, they are lubricated by the 90 wt gear oil in the rear end. after you get it all back together and tires on the ground and rear end refilled with gear oil, jack 1 side up as far as the jack will go as this will pre lube the bearings, do this to both sides. then check the fluid level again as it will be a little low.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 4:28 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2006 2:24 pm
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Location: Hermiston,Oregon
You don't need an engine stand to rebuild your engine it just makes it easier to do all you need is a work bench or even the floor and a couple of 2X4s,but check at harbor freight for an engine stand as they are reasonable and on sale allot of times.
Now if you have a couple of good sized friends you can pull the motor with a pipe or 2X4 ,it's called the red neck way.

Oh and when you do get the block to a machine shop be sure to surface the the block head surface as well as the head.

Good luck and stay in contact it will be a pleasure to help.

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