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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 8:06 am 
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forgot to add this info to my last post

TOYOTA 4X4 AXLES
•'79-85 front axle~ 55.5", rear axle~ 55"
•'86-95 front IFS~ 59", rear axle~ 58.5"
•Tacoma 4x4, '96-up 4runner front IFS~ ???, rear axle- 60"
•T100 front IFS~ 65", rear axle~ 66.75"


the first gen 79-85 rear axle is only 55" wide AND has the 6 lug to match the stock wheels... .5" wider than a 2wd s10 but the big advantage is the matching lug pattern. Ring gears on these early 4cyl diffs were 8" and are the same size as the v6 gears but are not directly interchangeable because of bearing thickness differences

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 6:47 pm 
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Got a few days off this week so I started working out the carb tuning.
The stock secondary is .95, I wasn't sure if I was rich or lean so I went one stage rich to .98
ran horrible at wot barely got over the sputtering enough to accelerate

Went down 2 stages lean from stock to a .89...
After it got over the 3k rpm stumble range from my main jetting being off it transitioned to the secondaries and flew for the bit of rpm left.. leaving that for now.

Went to the primaries,
stock .86 main jets, 52/65 needles

I tried #18 which is 5% more rich at cruise and 0% different under acc from base

Spent a while with the edelbrock tuning chart.
Switched to their setting #5
.83 main jets and the 52/62. So 3% more lean in cruise and 8% more lean under acceleration vs original. Went with the same 8% more lean as I did with the secondaries. Will see if that works in a few... mostly posting this here so I have a back-up record of what I messed with..

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2015 7:41 pm 
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attached the Edelbrock tuning chart to this one..

I started at setting 18.. idle and up to about 2500 was good as long as I didn't try to suddenly jump on the gas, beyond that all sputtering and missing and struggling to gain speed smoothly

currently at setting 5
the idle and right off idle is really rough and when I first give it gas coming off idle it drops rpm then picks up and by 1500 it is running great,
it runs more smoothly at 2000rpm than it ever has it pulls along really well, I found a nice dead end road way out there and I was able to keep the tire spinning 1st thru 4th until I let off, anywhere above the idle area it runs great it pulls really hard from 2000-5500, there is a very slight miss/something in there but it doesn't slow it down in any way.

I am thinking it wants to be more rich way down low so I am going to pick up a pair of rods to move it to setting 4 and richen it up by 3% at the very bottom. still 5% more lean than I had it before but it is at the 0% mark right where the carb was set to begin with.

I am considering a more high quality distributor than the one I have now and see how much that helps. will be getting it on a dyno soon to check my a/f ratio and get a power slip

gonna try to get my hands on a vacuum gauge so I can check my idle vacuum


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 6:22 pm 
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Couldn't get the idle right.

Bumped the base timing from 10* to 8*
Swapped to setting #11 so it is 2 stages lean all across the board

Idle improved but not perfect, still a bobble when I try to accelerate. Remembered i changed from the 6 in/hg spring the carb came with to the pink 7in/hg spring for some reason not sure why... so i just swapped that back to the 6" spring. Havent run it yet

On my way to get a vacuum gauge so I can finally fine tune the idle for max vacuum. And I should be able to hook it on my wiper so I can monitor when my rod step up springs should be opening vs when they actually are and make sure the springs are right. Hopefully today or tomorrow I can get it dialed in well enough to merit a dyno run

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2015 3:40 pm 
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Vac test gauges are awesome. Got my idle dialed in great, steady on 800rpm and 15-15.25" vacuum. Lot of heavy rain so testing acceleration won't do a whole lot but still gonna try taking it out and swap springs if it still stumbles when I get on it

Runs pretty dang good. Still not perfect but good. I tried out a couple different step up springs and so far I am at the 8" spring, going to try the 7 but the 8 is doing good.
Still a mid range miss under acceleration so I will have to see about trying 1 stage leaner rod and jet and a stage rich and see what happens

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 3:25 pm 
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Went from 8 to 12% lean and that made a big difference in the bottom to mid transition stumble it mostly happens when I get on the gas hard enough to break it loose in the back or open the throttle quickly, I think that may just be part of driving with a mechanical secondary, open too fast and it stumbles.
That said I hopped in the gas and spun it 3rd and 4th a good way down a wet road and it didn't do it.

Im looking to replace that cheap distributor before too long.


Considering a 9" rear. I keep finding really good deals on 9" gear sets, posi's, bare housings etc... if i can narrow it myself i can assemble one from used parts pretty cheap

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 11:29 am 
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Went back to the #10 setting, from 12 to 8% lean over carb baseline.. it's the cold time of year
Spent a while with my vac gauge and got it running dang near perfect. 15.5"+ of vac at idle no stumble in the bottom or mid transition.. dyno next
Went and took it out after it rained because that's all it does up here October to April. It went really well, pulled really hard in 3rd and 4th didn't hit 5th it was just going too quick to be safe with how wet it was and I was breaking traction on upshifts. But i did a few back to back pulls 2nd-4th and it transitions very well between different throttle positions. There was a very slight miss but nothing like before.. the dyno will diagnose that soon.
I noticed when the tires break loose and it is free spinning it has the same type of miss it had before almost like a rev limiter but it didn't stop anything.
I can't wait for the final tune on the dyno, I will post the dyno results when I get down to the shop. my brother works at the one I'm going to so at least I know it wont be a dude without a clue running it :roll: will give it a quick once over before I go, check plug gap and seal up the oil leak
excited for the strip to reopen in March so I can finally make a few passes.. need to improve the rear tire situation... may weld up the diff when I get closer to getting a new axle to make a couple passes since I rarely drive it anyway. would give me a better chance of making a decent pass and cost me about $25 in cleaning chemicals, welding wire and shielding gas and a few class 12.9 metric bolts...

Also fiddled with my choke/warm up fast idle to get it working. I can manually set it with my hand and it will stay until I blip the throttle. The electric choke on the carb is shot the shop i took it to forever ago verified that, I have a pull cable I am going to.set up as a manual choke knob where the stock wiper knob is now

Heater core and fan are out now as well was hunting for a crack that didn't exist. Leak must have been a hose, the one was dented a bit that may have caused it. Will be reinstalling it and finally have a heater again



anyone have experience with something like this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Radiator-Drain- ... k1&vxp=mtr

i don't have a drain on my radiator so i have to loosen the lower hose every time i need to drain it out. i have plenty of misc tubing around and i finally fixed my welder so i could make something smimilar with a nut bolt and pipe

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 3:03 pm 
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can't keep water in mine long enough to need a drain.lol The previous owner replaced the water pump and just blobbed blue permatex all over it...didn't follow the instructions..oh well


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 3:13 pm 
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rodburner wrote:
can't keep water in mine long enough to need a drain.lol The previous owner replaced the water pump and just blobbed blue permatex all over it...didn't follow the instructions..oh well


ouch that is no fun, one of those things on the to do list that just keeps moving down like my slow oil leak :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2015 5:08 pm 
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Thinkin my fuel pump is weak. Truck runs awesome around town, but on the freeway if I'm already going 60 and go for more it seems like it just doesn't have enough fuel and stumbles and misses... doesn't backfire just misses like it's running on a couple dead cylinders

Still unsure on my distributor I think it's a cheap pos my tach signal jumps around a lot and it never did before and I'm worried I'm not getting a strong and consistent spark

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2015 2:23 pm 
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Thinking about welding my diff for the winter and swap axles in the spring when I have some time and a nice weekend
I know it isn't recommended for street vehicles but I don't daily drive the truck i dont think it even gets used weekly
Also the road is wet 90% of the time now until March or April, and I run 195/75 tires so grip so grip be first to break.
Problem I am having is skinny tire + wet road + steep hill start + torque = spinning tire..
And trying to accelerate on a flat road I still spin a lot unless I do it slowly, it gets irritating. All the power and no grip... I figure welding at least gives me two tires of grip so 390mm instead of 195mm. Tires just got rotated and the worse pair will be replaced with wider wheels and tires when I get a new rear axle and good ones go front.
I about got stuck in a client's driveway, had to back down to unload a tile saw and a bunch of tile, Really steep driveway and layer of wet leaves and no weight left in the bed sucked...

Will post up some pics when I get around to it. Gotta get some more shielding gas and some class 12.9 metric bolts if I can find them the right size

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2015 10:48 pm 
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Threw an aluminum canopy from a Toyota on it

Image

Image

Truck is still in desperate need of body work and paint, hopefully next spring or summer

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 5:58 pm 
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Got the first snow of the year so I found an empty parking lot for some snownuts.
The ground gives it away I had been here a while. My videographer isn't a professional so there was a 5 second first video and a big break in between and then this one from the end
Video
Image

Sadly it mostly melted already. Had my fun tho

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 6:51 pm 
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Also, I saw my canopy on an early ranger while I was out. So they are very universal for older trucks

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 9:02 am 
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I think I'm gonna see if I can find a good deal on a holley 450, it ran good before and my timing getting knocked off was the problem so that carb was fine and this edelbrock has been a huge pain since day 1. Can probably sell it and the tuning kit for it to fund a 450 and a rebuild set for it
I'm running a 500 mechanical secondary, and with perfect tuning it would probably be great at the strip but it is not as street friendly as I would like and the bottom end feels weak, little big.
with a 500 i have the carb of a 350 with a 667 4 barrel, 450 puts me even with a 600, and has a vac secondary

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 2:39 pm 
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I was able to talk the short woman who controls my wallet.. you guys know how that works... to "let me" spend some of my tax money on the LUV.
Looking into s10 rear ends and trying to decide on options.
I was reading that the 4th gen 92-02 camaro posi will swap into the smaller 7.5/7.625 diff which gives me the option of 3.23 or 2.79 gears with a clutch type lsd.
Or the s10 8.5" 3.08 3.42 diffs with the gov-bomb diff. I found a camaro posi diff with the 2.79 and the 3.23 and 3.42 gear sets. I am trying to get a lot better mileage than my 4.10 is giving me so my main thought is highest ratio available with a posi/limited slip
Truck is only 26-2700lbs and I don't think I will top 300hp so I'm not likely to break either axle without some very dumb driving technique and fat tires

Also considering a vac secondary holley 450 like i had on it to begin with. Depending I how much I spend on the rear end.

Any of you guys try the camaro posi unit in the s10 rear end yet? I definitely don't want another open diff if i take the time to swap axles

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2016 4:05 pm 
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went and picked up a set of chrome 15x7 w/3" backspacing wheels off a Toyota with some 30x9.5 tires on them for $75. gonna go ahead and flip my ball joints, re-index the torsion bars and bring the truck on up a couple inches. in the rear end i am deciding between extended shackles or adding leaves to get some height to match the front.
Image

looking forward to getting rid of the dinky little 195/75R14's and getting some kind of traction

The added size of the 30" tires is the same as changing to a 3.49 diff gear so that should help a little bit

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 7:23 pm 
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Just went and picked up a set of these to gain a little elevation out back. From what i was told they should be good for about 2"
http://m.autozone.com/suspension-steeri ... ckfit=true

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2016 8:03 pm 
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Looking to lift it that little bit and try out the new tires after work tomorrow
Will do a step by step on reindexing the torsion bars while i am doing it

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2016 8:29 pm 
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love4theluv wrote:
Looking to lift it that little bit and try out the new tires after work tomorrow
Will do a step by step on reindexing the torsion bars while i am doing it


that would be great I've been wondering about them steps & thinking i want a ride between the all up & down settings
Thanks

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