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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 7:09 pm 
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Location: Washington State
Sweet I was gonna use a mechanical One but now ill use the stock one. And Glad to hear!!!post a video of it running when you get the chance

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 8:43 pm 
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yeah i just need to replace the gasket in my remote oil filter adapter and fix that oring in the carb then i can let it run long enough to set the timing and the idle speed.
another day or two and i will be on the road. so stoked took 13 months to get it here but now its about done

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 1:15 am 
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alright got a lot of misc done today
fixed the leaking remote oil filter adapter, and the leaking carb o ring that somehow broke in half and got forced into the fuel passage, got the tach wired up and mounted, made a plexiglass mount for my mechanical oil pressure gauge and installed it, put anti sieze on every exhaust system bolt, installed the gaskets in the exhaust flanges behind my xmember, fixed a leaking coolant port plug i forgot to tighten down before, filled the radiator the rest of the way, tested my electric fan, strapped down my battery box, mounted my clutch fluid resovoir where the stock fuse box was, shortened and rewelded the push rod for the clutch master cyl and ran the line from the res to the cyl, extended the clutch pedal arm about 3/4" to get a better angle on the pushrod into the cyl, added a pedal stop to the clutch so it doesnt sit farther up than the brake when it is at rest, went around and toqrued down anything i had any doubt about, can you tell i was busy today yet? im sure there was more i forgot today was a very productive day.
all i have left is setting the timing, adding clutch fluid and bleeding the system and dialing the carb in getting excited as hell to be so close to done

pic of my plexi mount for the oil pres gauge, when i get the rest of the aftermarket gauges i will finish the plexi piece i have cut out for the full cluster out of the same material. i replaced the dash vent with this piece. it looks crooked because it was just sitting on those screws and not tightened in yet
Image

ans the tach mounted infront of speedo because the stock one wont work with my trans anyway. steering wheel reflection makes it look cracked o.O
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1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 1:47 pm 
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my shortened master cyl rod
Image

the whole assembly with the extened pedal arm. it ends up right behind the trim piece the headlight pull knob is. will have more pics of the assembled system in a few.
Image

fixed the one leak in my carb but i need a better oring for my crossover tube it has a minor drip out of the temporary one i put in there while i was fiddling with the timing. day off tomorrow hopefully i can knock the rest of this out

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2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 4:20 pm 
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Location: Adelaide hills, South Australia
not far to go now! i have been following your build for a while it will be great when you get it all done!

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 8:51 am 
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thanks dude im gettin real close now.
i yyink im still a tooth off on my distributor i cant get my timing as far as it needs to go but thats a fifteen minute fix
gonna need new float bowl gaskets for my carb since i had to pull then off they arent gonna seal up well. and a fuel pressure regulator
also found out my master cyl for the clutch is shot when i push the pedal i get fluid pushing back into the res so im gonna need to rebuild or replace it. its always somethin :lol: gettin close tho
on the plus side i have good oil pressure was at 50psi while it was pretty cold at around 1200rpm and i was trying to dial my timing in and the carb seems just right for this engine but needs a new return spring because it likes to creep up after a bit and not slow back down to an idle but i was able to keep it at 700rpm as an idle with the timing way off before i ahut itndown for a fuel leak. gettin there always expected some kind of issue to pop up on a build like this

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 10:44 am 
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Two steps closer one step back, boy do I know this all too well. One time a year we must tear our airplanes apart for a annual inspection and replace what is needed. This year I am replacing all rubber hoses, doing some painting to get ahead of corrosion, a lot of preventive maintenance and so on. This was supposed to be a one week deal, here I am a month into it, about 3K lighter in the wallet and I don't want to count how many hours I have into it. If I paid a shop to do it all it would be about 10K. All I can say is if you chip away at something daily it will get done. As much as it sucks it's better then having to pay a shop for everything.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 11:13 am 
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absolutely! my truck will never grace the floor of a shop as long as i am physically capable of doing it myself. slowly chipping away at it and im dang near there now
i dont want to do the math but my girlfriend has a pretty good estimate of around or a bit over $5k spent on it so far.

i have my list of stuff i need and im pretty much down to a set of moroso reusable float bowl gaskets, a holley bypass fpr and a rebuild set for my clutch mc or a new one if i cant get a rebuild set for this one. will also need front calipers at some point soon, my bleeders are both broken off up front and not even an easyout can get them so i cant bleed the front brakes other than at the banjo fittings. beyond that im ready to roll, hopefully when payday comes around i can scrape up enough to get it done. next time i get over there, probably tomorrow i will get the timing where it is supposed to be and get a video of it running to post up. man i love how it sounds even running crappy :ebiggrin

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 12:30 pm 
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Try using a reverse drill bit on the caliper bleeders. I have been able to save countless calipers with them. I love these bits, work great for me.

http://www.zorotools.com/g/00065861/k-G ... 7AodwwoASw

When it comes to bits I usually get a better set then these but you get the idea. If drilled with reverse bits or left hand bits the heat along with spinning backwards does help them break lose.

http://t.harborfreight.com/13-piece-lef ... gle.com%2F

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 1:06 pm 
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yep thats what i was calling an easy out didnt work gonna have to dring them down and try again because it split the exposed part. i think if i grind it closer to flush and give it less room to split it will come out

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2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 1:34 pm 
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will have my moroso reusable float bowl gaskets and a holley bypass fuel pressure regulator tomorrow. just made the order today at baxters. from that point i need a throttle return spring and a clutch master cyl and i will be good to go

question.. this barb is the one for my vacuum advance right? im pretty sure this is it because its the only one on the metering block.
Image

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 5:52 pm 
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this truck is such a mutt.... but hey thats how you hotrod an old truck... mix a lil of everything good
i can think of off the top of my head
91 s10 blazer* block crank rods and lower engine rebuild kit
95 s10 pickup ext cab* transmission, half driveshaft, flywheel,master/slave etc
97 s10 blazer* heads, at home port job i spent a long time on. new valves ls6 springs etc
some random s10 blazer brackets pulleys etc mix n match on that
Corvette* ls6 beehive valve springs
Jeep cherokee xj* "power center"-relay and fuse box that goes in between the alternator and battery
volvo* not sure which model...black leather sport seats on homemade fixed rails
Ford* mustang w/289 holley factory equipped four barrel 450cfm carb #4548
full rebuild and machine job on shortblock. new oil pump lifters timing set etc etc

aftermarket stuffs
pacesetter shorty headers for s10blazer modified number 3 tube to fit
edelbrock 2114 intake manifold
Compcams 270hr cam
85 isuzu trooper* drilled slotted & vented front brake rotors
fully mandrel bent exhaust 2.25" from headers back to a flowmaster y pipe and a super44 3" all the way out from the y pipe
19x22 aluminum radiator with 16" fan
luk clutch kit
ngk iridium plugs
procomp 65k hei distributor and plug wires
bosch hd water pump with extra bearing in back for shaft support
tons of misc small stuff.. chome water neck dist hold down lots of small parts
spectre polished cold air intake for holley carbs
random leather shift boot i found at the yard that matches my seats
modified a bunch of the luv stuff including that crossmember the exhaust goes thru
added a crossmember to mount the transmission to
adding a crossmember under the engine to replace the one the front axle assembly used to be
swapped from the 1980 2 headlight front end to a 1974 luv 4 headlight and grill setup
making a plexi gauge cluster to match the one i made for the oil pressure.
modified my heater ducting so it now blows the defog and floor heater only. no point in dash vents and all that ducting without ac to blow cold.
blah blah.. long list. very frankensteined but it all came together pretty well. needs bumpers

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1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 10:26 pm 
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:)

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 7:24 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 24, 2014 11:19 am
Posts: 326
Location: Lodi CA
Wow bro just went thur ur project, ur bad ass. :esurprised i like your set up. You paint job looks real good too. Good job on ur truck cant wait see it when its all done


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 9:34 am 
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ha thanks dude. it eouldnt have come out this well if i didnt have my dad helping me along the way but i appreciate it! hopefully im done and driving in the next week or two not gonna try setting a dat again because it never works that way

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2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 1:40 pm 
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Location: Lodi CA
Yup. Ur dad is koo. Mannn im haven a hella of a time finding the four pulgs. U said u made urs huh.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 4:12 pm 
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yeah i spent a long time looking. the only thing i know of that shares that thread is a spark plug
i put the size in the post earlier but i think it was metric 14x1.25 thread

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 6:48 pm 
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You two are talking about two differant engines. Make sure the older version of the g180 has the same thread size and pitch as the later model g180. Here is a link to a 72 that shows the air injection. The best idea I have is to cut the pipe at the male fitting near the head, braze the hole shut and reinstall.

viewtopic.php?f=33&t=21437

Sorry to post this in this thread but didn't know if I started a new one Juan would see it.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 7:21 pm 
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totally didnt think about his being the older engine.

on a more related topic i got my holley bypass regulator and my float bowl gaskets
got the bracket mounted on the firewall just need the fittings

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1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2014 11:26 pm 
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small update
my master cylinder is leaking so i know its bad. need to pick up a new one

got my distributor pulled out and set in another tooth back, installed my new carb gaskets and put the carb back on. readjusted my secondary float which was way off on the dry test setting

made a L shaped bracket to set up this new return spring. the throttle cable has since been fixed and isnt hanging out now
Image

mount for the fuel pressure regulator. needs fittings stillImage

black painted float bowls. engine together and ready to roll now
Image

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1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride


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