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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 2:13 am 
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Hey guys,

I've decided that I'm gonna tackle the head gasket job. I'm going to post all of the pictures I take here so you guys can guide me through the process and let me know if I'm making any mistakes. This could take several weeks (I really hope not, but its possible) so please bare with me, lol. :P


These are pictures of a few of the symptoms I've been experiencing.


Blowing smoke out of the tailpipe.
Image
Image

Overheating even after replacing radiator, hoses, flushing twice, adding overflow tank, and radiator cap (Will replace thermostat soon). Sorry, no pics of it spewing steam. :lol:

Erratic vacuum readings at idle. (Just a pic of the gauge, the one on the right side of steering column.)
Image

Dripping coolant down the block (This just started yesterday).
Image

Low Compression in all four cylinders.
Image


The compression readings were:

Cylinder 1 (front, closest to radiator):
95+100+105+105+102=101.4
-plug was wet - yellow & green color

Cylinder 2:
90+90+90+87+87=88.8
-plug was damp - brownish color

Cylinder 3:
89+85+84+85+84=85.4
-plug was wet - reddish color

Cylinder 4:
100+97+97+98+99=98.2
-plug was dry - brownish/blackish color

These numbers are low right? I think its supposed to in the 130's about.

I overheated the engine real bad once also, so I suspect I might have a warped head contributing to the low compression. Let me know if you think that something other than the cylinder head or the head gasket could be causing any of these problems.

I bought a completely rebuilt head for $175 here in the classifieds and a Head Gasket Kit for $65 at Advance Auto Parts. I also bought a torque wrench at Sears for $25.99 (old school beam type), and the compression tester in the pictures for $22.00 at AAP. (This is more for my purposes, trying to keep track of total cost, lol :lol: ) The last of the parts will get here Friday, so hopefully I'll be able to start tearing it down Saturday.

I'm going to try to do the entire job with the engine in the truck. I've got a buddy to help me who'll let me borrow tools and his garage, which is a HUGE help. I've also got an old Chilton service manual and Figuarus's head rebuild thread to guide me (viewtopic.php?f=5&t=20873). I'm always open to any suggestions or tips you guys have, so please don't hold back, lol. This is my first major automotive repair, so bear with me. :D


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 8:19 am 
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If the tailpipe smoke has the sweetish antifreeze smell, it is almost certain the gasket is blown.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 11:00 am 
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Pic#4 is the clincher...

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 11:15 am 
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love that dash vaccum gauge!

man thats so cool!

A.j.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 3:53 pm 
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So i picked up the gasket set today, but I'm still waiting for the head to come in. I'll be driving it to my friends garage soon also. :) Hopefully I wont get pulled over for polluting the neighborhood. :lol:

Haha, ya, the gauge was there when I bought it. Its nice to see what ur engine is doing while u drive, lol. The needle bounces between economy and idle range (about 10 degrees) when idling, but stays constant in power or economy range when revved. Never had it in the supercharger range.... :o lol

And ya, now that u mention it, the smoke does smell kinda sweet. Maybe thats why I never knew it smoked until someone pointed it out, I was originally trying to smell burning oil, but it doesn't smell like that. lol It's got a greenish tint too, so its coolant no doubt.

Ya, it just started leaking like that. It's almost a constant *drip drip drip* from the bottom of the oil pan when I run it now, =(

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 8:49 am 
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you dont wanna sell that guage do you?

or trade for a part?

or something...

I really really likea that!

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 11:32 am 
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bshelley234 wrote:
So i picked up the gasket set today, but I'm still waiting for the head to come in. I'll be driving it to my friends garage soon also. :) Hopefully I wont get pulled over for polluting the neighborhood. :lol:

Haha, ya, the gauge was there when I bought it. Its nice to see what ur engine is doing while u drive, lol. The needle bounces between economy and idle range (about 10 degrees) when idling, but stays constant in power or economy range when revved. Never had it in the supercharger range.... :o lol

And ya, now that u mention it, the smoke does smell kinda sweet. Maybe thats why I never knew it smoked until someone pointed it out, I was originally trying to smell burning oil, but it doesn't smell like that. lol It's got a greenish tint too, so its coolant no doubt.

Ya, it just started leaking like that. It's almost a constant *drip drip drip* from the bottom of the oil pan when I run it now, =(



be careful with what head gasket you get( felpro )is not for a 1.8, its for a 1.9, 2.0 (ect) i found that out with lots of looking up stuff you need to get head gasket victor renze 3553 better matching and more meat in between the cyl fire rigs are thicker also ill post pic of the gasket i bought and another thing call felpro complaing about there head gasket THEY WILL TELL YOU ITS FOR 1.9 haha they need 3 headgaskets for the engine not a universal 1


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 8:10 pm 
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Ok, so I found out that I did the compression test wrong, I didn't have the throttle open all the way. :oops: So I'm going to retest it tomorrow. I'm also going to put about a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder on the second round to see if the numbers change (supposed to tell if the rings are bad.) Hopefully I'll do it right this time, :lol:

Um shoot, the gasket kit I got is a Felpro...... Should I take it back? It looks like it'll be alright, but if you've had trouble with 'em, I don't wanna mess with it.

Here is a pic of the gaskets. I don't even know where all of them are supposed to go, :lol:
Image

This is the information on fitting etc. that was on the box
Image

I did notice that the years they showed on the box were wrong, but the guy at Advanced Auto Parts said its supposed to fit. Do you think it'll be alright? I will have to apply sealant on the head gasket cuz its metal, but the guy at AAP said it was the best they had.... :(


Haha, actually I'm kinda attached to the gauge myself, lol. If you go to eBay and search "vacuum gauge" theres lots (mostly racing ones) but here's a gas saving one for 10 bucks plus shipping: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Make-Wav ... 500wt_1182 I really do like it too, its really handy. :lol:


Side note, I installed an old DVD player head unit I had from my last car in the LUV. Looks and sounds pretty good. :D Sry, horrible pic (ugh, I need a new dash... :( )
Image

Anyone want an old original tape deck for cheap? :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 8:28 pm 
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Some of the stuff you will sort out as you take stuff apart. I think you have carb to manifold gaskets. If you don't take the carb off it, you don't need new gaskets. I think the O-rings go in the block around oil passages. The 8 things in the clear pack are the valve guide seals. If you were having your own head rebuilt, you would give them to the shop to install.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 8:27 pm 
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Okay, so the head came yesterday, except I'm worried about that it might not work. It's from a G200, though I've heard that the heads are the same. Its real pretty, except its missing the 2nd coolant port for the intake manifold. I don't think that I'll be able to make it work unless I get a different intake manifold, which was not part of the plan.....

I guess I should sell or send back the new head and try to rebuild mine. I've got new valve guide seals and everything; Do you think that (if my head isn't warped or anything) I could bring my head into a shop and have them grind the valve seals, install new valve guides, etc. for a reasonable price?

How much should I expect to pay to have my head redone if I bring it in with all the necessary parts? Here are pictures of the new head I got, should I send it back or sell it? I bought it for $175...

Image
Image

Here is where the coolant port should be. I think this head is for an earlier engine, what do u guys think?

Image


I haven't redone the compression test yet, the weather's been crummy recently... Hope to start working on it in the next couple days, :ebiggrin

Poor luv, sitting out in the rain, :( , and the Saturn I'm borrowing from my parents for a while (its supposed to be for my sister... :lol: ).
Image


Also, its the weirdest thing. I went to start up the truck, but the clutch pedal was stuck. Its been raining a lot recently, maybe the cable has rusted? I can't move it till thats fixed, ugh! :evil:

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Last edited by bshelley234 on Wed Nov 10, 2010 12:16 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 8:49 pm 
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That head will work. DO NOT EVER SET A SURFACED HEAD ON ITS SEALING SIDE.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 11:57 pm 
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Ouch, ya, sry. Didn't even think about it, 8O. It's in the packaging again now, so I hope I didn't do any damage, :econfused .

But u don't think that I will have to get a different intake manifold to use it? I haven't started taking my head off yet, but it seems that if the manifold coolant port is left open like that it'll pour coolant all over itself.....

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 8:08 am 
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Are you sure your old head doesn't have that water port?
Also, you mentioned needed a sealant for the head gasket because it's metal. Wrong. Head gaskets always go on dry.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 10:12 am 
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Your intake and exhaust manifolds will bolt right up. Also I noticed your gasket set comes with matching intake gaskets. The pattern for the intake ports are identical, just the front one's have the coolant port between the two. The factory doesnt need to have two gasket stamping machines, so they just give you two front intake gaskets instead of making one with the coolant port and one without to save them money.

Here's the intake off my 1978 G180

Image

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 1:50 pm 
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Really? I'll definitely have to check my intake manifold this afternoon. To save money, bah! :x

In the gasket literature it says the following:

"HEAD GASKET

Follow any directional markings shown on gasket(s). If no markings exist, install gasket(s). Fiber Faced Gasket(s): Install dry. Metal Faced Gasket(s): Requires a thin even coat of sealer applied to the metal side(s) of gasket."


Is this wrong? 8O

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 4:02 pm 
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That head gasket should be fine dry, it has a "printed seal" on it, should seal up fine just as it is. While the head is off, it wouldn't hurt to check the deck surface for warpage.

Just curious, On your compression test, since it reads a bit low, did you try shooting a little engine oil into the cylinders to see if that made any difference on your readings? Might tell you if your rings are going south. I noticed you mentioned you got the engine hot. Heat not only kills head gaskets, but it can also kill rings if exposed to high heat for long periods. The high heat will make the rings loose their tension to the wall, and this can result in oil control problems and low compression readings and lotsa blue tail pipe smoke..


DJ

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 8:31 pm 
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Hey guys,

So I did a lot of work on the truck today. I started the tear down and saw if the new head would work. It will thankfully. :ebiggrin Dan was right, Felpro sent me two identical intake manifold gaskets to save money. It only has one port, so my intake manifold will bolt right on. :D

Here are the pictures of what I did with short descriptions. Sorry if it takes FOREVER to load, I took a crap load of pictures. Most of the pictures are for my benefit later so I'll remember where everything goes, lol. :lol:

PLEASE stop me if you see something I did wrong. I tried to take the time to plan & document everything so we could catch any errors I make.

It was a brisk 38 degrees, but a good day for working. I started by taking the hood off.

Image

I hand tightened the screws back into the holes in the hood so I won't lose them,

Image

And laid the hood down in the grass for the time being.

Image

Next, I started taking off the air filter housing. The only bolt holding it down...

Image

I proceeded to remove various vacuum lines and hoses (I took pictures of each for later). The first one connected to the valve cover was ripped; I'll buy a new one. Do you think that could have contributed to the rough idle?

Image
Image
Image

I removed the choke heater hose.

Image

Then I drained the radiator and removed the hoses.

Image
Image

Haha, lots of clamps. two closest to port are to hold it on and keep the rubber reducing insert in (the hose was too big). The third farther up is to prevent a pinch that developed there.

Image

When I pulled the lower hose off, coolant flowed out of it, so there must have been extra coolant left in the lower parts of the system.

Image

I removed the overflow hose and took the reservoir out.

Image
Image

I started removing the air pump by removing hoses and slackening & removing the belt.

Image
Image
Image
Image

I unbolted and removed whatever this is. I'm guessing its some sort of air flow regulator? :ewink

Image

Unplugged another vacuum line.

Image

Removed the heat shield covering the exhaust header and put it in the bed with the rest of the stuff.

Image
Image

What the engine compartment looks like so far.

Image

I removed the support arm for the air flow regulator thingy and screwed the nuts back on the posts so I won't lose them.

Image
Image

Next I unplugged all the spark plug wires from the distributor and the wire to the starter solenoid. I now realize that I'm gonna have a helluva time plugging all those back into the right places. :cry:

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

I removed the radiator (the mounts were kinda bent and I couldn't get the bolts through the holes... lol :lol: ).

Image
Image
Image

I accidentally broke one of the vacuum line T connectors while I was taking it apart, so I'll have to buy a new one. :evil:

Image
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I then started unbolting the exhaust header.

Image

There was a metal pipe connected to the header that I had to remove. Ugh, that took a few extra minutes... :evil:

Image

I removed the air pump (sry, pic upside down for sum reason, lol)

Image

This is where I thought the 2nd coolant port was supposed to be in the intake manifold. Luckily, there wasn't one. :ebiggrin

Image
Image

Got the header off and removed old gaskets. They came off clean. :) Screwed the nuts back on the posts so I wont lose em.

Image
Image
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It started getting dark, so I started cleaning up and called it a day.

The bed with parts and crap in it (haha, got figaurus's thread up on my laptop, :lol: ) and engine compartment.

Image
Image

I placed the hood back down on it so nothing'll get wet and packed up & went inside for a cup of hot chocolate. :D

Image


Afterwards, I realized I forgot to retest the compression. Can I still test it with the header off? Or will it skew the results?

Also, I've seen people remove the air pump and air lines completely. Do I even need that stuff? And what does it do? Do you think that the ripped vacuum hose could have caused the rough idle?

I'll try to retest the compression tomorrow if you guys think I can still do it; and if the weathers good. I was going to work on the luv in my friend's garage, but with the clutch pedal stuck, I can't drive it at the moment. I think that maybe the clutch cable rusted in the line when it rained and it won't budge, so I'll prolly have to replace it. Any thoughts?

Thats all I did today. I'll post more pics as the project progresses. Please let me know if I've down anything wrong. Or, if you have any general tips or ideas for whats left, please don't hesitate to post em. :D

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 11:42 pm 
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it looks like the radiator is not a stock luv radiator. :signanyone

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 7:07 pm 
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I think the radiator is from an older luv/isuzu. I bought it from cadams02 in Phoenix. I'm not sure though... lol

Couldn't work on the truck today; too cold and snowy.

Image
Image

I hope none of the parts in the bed rust... :esurprised

Image


Still waiting for an answer on these too... :)

bshelley234 wrote:

Afterwards, I realized I forgot to retest the compression. Can I still test it with the header off? Or will it skew the results?

Also, I've seen people remove the air pump and air lines completely. Do I even need that stuff? And what does it do? Do you think that the ripped vacuum hose could have caused the rough idle?

I'll try to retest the compression tomorrow if you guys think I can still do it; and if the weathers good. I was going to work on the luv in my friend's garage, but with the clutch pedal stuck, I can't drive it at the moment. I think that maybe the clutch cable rusted in the line when it rained and it won't budge, so I'll prolly have to replace it. Any thoughts?

Thats all I did today. I'll post more pics as the project progresses. Please let me know if I've down anything wrong. Or, if you have any general tips or ideas for whats left, please don't hesitate to post em. :D

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1990 Kawasaki EX500
2008 Yamaha TTR230


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 9:15 pm 
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Outside California, many people do rip off the smog stuff. Biggest problem is finding something with the 14mm x 1mm thread to plug the hole. Spark plugs work.


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