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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 11:41 am 
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Location: Denver CO
Looking good. Looks like you are going to be done soon.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2009 7:06 pm 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 8:56 pm
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Location: Auburn, WA
Codym wrote:
Looking good. Looks like you are going to be done soon.


I hope so. Would sure be nice to have it move under its own power. How's your project coming along?

Eric Q.

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 Post subject: Disc Brake Swap
PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2009 7:26 pm 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 8:56 pm
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Location: Auburn, WA
This weekend I focused on the disc brake swap. I read all the instructions that Ben put together but it didn't specify which years would work. I found one posting in the archives where a guy asked if the brakes from an '82 would swap over. Unfortunately two folks answered that post with conflicting answers. Well, I think I can conclusively answer it now since I did the swap. The reason I'm not totally sure about it is because the tie-rod connector on the '82 is about 1" higher. Everything connected properly and I still have room under the stabilizer bar throughout the full range of steering so I think it'll be o.k. but I would like opinions.

Here's a picture showing the differences.

Image

And since I had the discs on I thought I'd also see what my wheels would look like. Unfortunately the center hole isn't big enough. Will a tire shop enlarge the opening? If not, who would do this type of work?

Image

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:53 am 
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after working in a tire shop for several years i can say for sure that no reputible tire shop will do that or is even set up to do that kind of work to a wheel.

however i have seen it done at any kind of metal working shop where they have lathes, or machine shops

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75 luv stepside... Work in progress
76 fleetside 350hp 1968 327cu
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:14 am 
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Location: Dickinson, Texas
all you need is a die grinder with a carbide bit on it.

some people even use routers

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wve0IgHIEL4

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 12:09 pm 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 8:56 pm
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Location: Auburn, WA
Thanks for the tips guys.

The router looked crazy easy. I like his comment about doing it the right 'backwoods' way. :lol:

I guess there isn't a concern with the hole lining up and centering the wheel.

Eric Q.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 6:08 pm 
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alot of wheels are not hub centric. or if you think you need the wheels to be hub centric, you can buy rings to do so.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 3:23 pm 
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Location: Denver CO
It this up and running. You are almost there


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 9:20 pm 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 8:56 pm
Posts: 426
Location: Auburn, WA
Almost. I've got lots of pictures and stuff to post but haven't gotten around to it.

I couldn't get fuel to come out of the tank. Poked a piece of wire down the pickup tube and it went within 1/4" of the end. I put the air compressor on it and it wouldn't blow out what ever was there. I put CLR down the tube and let it sit overnight. Next day tried blowing with air compressor again. This time at least small bubbles came out. Let the CLR sit overnight again. Next day the air compressor finally blew out what ever was blocking but I couldn't find the foreign object in the tank. So to be on the safe side, I removed the tank and cleaned it in the laundry sink. Wife wasn't home. When she got home I was done and had the tank trying in the shop. All she said was 'boy gas fumes really carry don't they...'. :lol:

Anyhow, while in/under there I replaced all the lines and put in a new fuel pump too.

Eric Q.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 1:40 pm 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 8:56 pm
Posts: 426
Location: Auburn, WA
Following up on my previous post regarding my fuel tank clean out, here are pictures of the fuel pump I used.

Old setup.
Image

Because the lines enter and leave the pump in a completely different fashion from the original one, I mounted it where the old fuel filter was and moved added a new mount for the new fuel filter.

New setup.
Image

This fuel pump is a Carter GP60430 and came from summit racing. I chose this one for a couple of reasons but one was because summit had it specifically listed as for the diesel chevy luv 2.2 pickup... which in its self is kind of odd since the diesel didn't come with an electric fuel pump. But oh well, it works well for what I want it for (future vegetable oil mixing idea) and it makes priming the mechanical injector pump effortless.

As I mentioned, the diesel truck didn't have an electric fuel pump and since I used the entire wiring harness from the diesel truck, there wasn't any wiring for the fuel pump from the fuse box. Since I have other electrical upgrades planned, I also ordered the Painless 70207 aux fuse block from summit and installed it in the engine compartment on the passenger side. This model is sealed to keep moisture out and has a rubber cover.
Image

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 2:56 pm 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 8:56 pm
Posts: 426
Location: Auburn, WA
Since the '75 luv came with a hydraulic push style clutch and the '82 diesel had a cable pull type clutch I had to do some conversion. Following the lead of other members of this site (TJ White, Dan, AZDude), I used a Wilwood hydraulic master and slave setup. I was amazed how the mounting holes for the stock cluch master cylinder were almost identical to the wilwood unit. No firewall modification was required.

Image

Since the pushrod assembly that connects to the pedal was different, I swapped them around.
Image

Image

A similiar story for the slave cylinder. Here's the stock setup as it came from Wilwood.
Image

I removed the long rod from the fixed mounting side and put in a much shorter bolt leaving the round swivel thingy in place. I was fortunate that on this transmission, the mounting hole that was originally for the clutch cable was also the proper size for the fixed mount end. It didn't require nearly the amount of fabrication that AZDUDE did.

On the end that retracts, I removed the cool swivel thingy and fabricated an adapter for the clutch fork. This picture shows the first prototype of the fork adapter but I ended up switching to a chain link shown below.
Image

Here's the chain links.
Image

And here's the adapter
Image

And here they are in place. I still have to put the chain link clip on. The adapter come off the fork without the clip but I like the extra security. Sorry for the poor quality pictures.
Image

Image

Wilwood parts list
Master Cylinder - 3/4" bore - 260-1304 - $54
Slave Cylinder - 3/4" bore - 260-1333 - $80
Adapter - 220-6410 - $13
Clip - 300-6416 - $1
Fitting Adapter - 220-3406 - $3
Flexline - 12" - 220-8762 - $21
Total - $173

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'75 body with '82 diesel running gear
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 Post subject: Tail light gaskets
PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 3:14 pm 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 8:56 pm
Posts: 426
Location: Auburn, WA
I honestly didn't check around much for new tail light gaskets but I assume like many of the other rubber components for our trucks, aftermarket stuff isn't being made.

So while I was at Lowes I saw 1/8" weatherizing rubber that's adhesive on one side. I cut to length and other than having a couple of seams, it worked well.

Image

And being white it blends in well with the housing.
Image

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 Post subject: More wiring conversion
PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 4:18 pm 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 8:56 pm
Posts: 426
Location: Auburn, WA
I've said it before but hopefully this is the last of the wiring conversion posts. Next round of wiring posts will be around adding my new keyless entry and electric door locks. :)

Anyhow, when I tried to start the truck for the first time, it wouldn't start because the clutch depressed switch from the '75 and '82 were opposite of each other; the '75 was a normally closed switch and the '82 was a normally open switch. Well actually it would start, but only if I did NOT press the clutch. :lol:

In the spirit of cheapness that I subscribe to, I was able to re-use the brake switch from the '82 in the place of the '75 clutch switch. The '75 clutch and the '82 brake switches are identical in shape and size, just different connectors and of course N/C vs. N/O. So after switching ends on the wires I put it in and now the truck won't start unless the clutch pedal IS depressed.

Image

By far the biggest wiring effort in the conversion has been rewiring the combination switch. On the '82, the hazard switch is integrated into the combination switch. Also, the connectors are completely different. So taking the pigtail from the '82 combination switch and cutting all the wires off and splicing on the '75 luv connectors (most wire colors were still the same so that was a bonus) I have my '82 harness to '75 combination switch adapter.
Image

There was one extra wire in the pigtail that comes from a circuit breaker that didn't apply to the '75 so it is just taped off. Not exactly sure what it was for but it too went to the '82 combination switch.

And lastly, while I was cleaning out the fuel tank I decided to test the fuel sending unit. By using the procedure in the shop manual I couldn't get the proper readings. If I took the resistance measurements from the float stem, however, the resistance measurements were correct. Turns out the sliding connection inside the fuel sending unit was corroded. The housing comes apart very easily on these units and with some 220 grit sandpaper and a small flat screw driver the area that conducts electricity can be cleaned up again. Hope this helps someone vs. buying a new sending unit.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 10:08 am 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 8:56 pm
Posts: 426
Location: Auburn, WA
It's been a while since I did anything to the Luv but last weekend I added a trailer hitch. I have a couple of small trailers and everything around my place has been standardized to a 2" ball and 2" receivers so decided to add a hitch to the Luv that would work with the existing stuff. Don't worry, I won't be towing anything heavy with the Luv; mostly want it for the convenience of moving things around the yard.

As most know, there aren't any trailer hitches of this style made for the Luv so I went on the craigslist hunt. I finally found a used but never installed universal fit hitch that would fit between the frame rails. It is a Reese hitch but after looking on their website, part number 37096 is apparently a part they manufacture for a reseller. Anyhow, a picture of the instruction manual is below.

Image

Well, the bracket that it came with was slightly larger than what I needed so I made one that is appropriate for the Luv. See the two below for comparison. Mine is half of a piece of 4" square tubing cut down to match the contours of the Luv frame and the hitch.

Image

Here is the bracket installed on the truck.
Image

And here is a shot from the back with it installed.
Image

Other than removing the license plate bracket (which I still have to figure out where I want to relocate it to), the Luv wasn't modified and the hitch can be unbolted and removed if needed. If anyone has ideas of where to install the license plate, let me know.

Hope this helps someone in the future.

Eric Q.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 4:31 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 10, 2013 12:24 pm
Posts: 65
Location: New Hampton Ia
Very interesting to see what you'r doing as I'm working on doing a diesel swap into into my 80 LUV. I just test fitted the engine on saterday so I still have a ways to go.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 7:08 pm 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 8:56 pm
Posts: 426
Location: Auburn, WA
The '80 should be easier as I've been told the motor mounts are the same as the 2.2l. Perhaps you can confirm now that your engine is in.

Are you using the 2.2l Isuzu diesel or something else?

Good luck on the swap and if you have any questions, let me know.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 12:13 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 10, 2013 12:24 pm
Posts: 65
Location: New Hampton Ia
I am using the 2.2 that was originally in a Chevy S 10. Then transplanted into and Izusu truck The engine mounts are no longer stock but I think they will still work in my truck. I probably will need some help with the wiring as the wiring in the Izusu was a disaster.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 12:33 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 10, 2013 12:24 pm
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Location: New Hampton Ia
Hi I just had a question for you how did you wire up your alternator. I'm wondering what I need to do to wire my internally regulated alternator but came on the diesel. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 3:03 pm 
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Location: Germantown, TN (right next to ElvisTown)
The truck wrote:
Hi I just had a question for you how did you wire up your alternator. I'm wondering what I need to do to wire my internally regulated alternator but came on the diesel. Thanks.

Your alternator is a Delco, right? (Not an Isuzu alternator).

Jack

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 3:09 pm 
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Location: New Hampton Ia
yes it's a Delco.


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