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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 9:37 am 
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Ok, so here is the start of my build. Taking this stock 80 4x4, and trying to bring it back to life after sitting for almost 15 years. I'll be honest I'll probably suck about posting updates and pictures as I tend to forget to take pictures as I'm working, (Wicked Mayhem has set a pretty high bar for this). So thanks in advance for stopping by and adding comments or critiques.

So here are some of the current (before) pictures.

Image
Image
Image
Image

As you can see, pretty straight and solid platform to start with. The only rust I've found so far is surface, nothing eating through in the normal spots. Even the rockers feel solid.

More to come.....

Chad

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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 9:52 am 
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More pics from this last weekend. Didn't actually get any real tear down done, but thought I would share some of the extra goodies that came with it.

So here is one special goody that came along, hopeing to be able to use it.
Image

Interior shots....there is some rust on the drivers side foot well, but it all seems to be mostly surface, nothing too deep. Should be able to clean it up and let some POR-15 do the rest.
Image
Image

Other misc shots:
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Image

Picked this little gem up a month or so ago for free:
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Everything should be there to put this one back together, but if not, I'm hoping I have it in my wall of parts:
Image

That's pretty much all for now, hope to do more this week and weekend and if I remember I'll have pics.

Chad

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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 11:18 am 
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I glad to see i'm not the only one with a wall of parts lol. Looks good man

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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 12:42 pm 
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Hmmm, I wonder if that is my old topper??? I sold it to some guy in Denver back in the early 90's.
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Put it on my 79 LUV after I got the white one painted
Image

Sorry, I got :offtopic

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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 1:22 pm 
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TILTED wrote:
Hmmm, I wonder if that is my old topper??? I sold it to some guy in Denver back in the early 90's.

Sorry, I got :offtopic


Not sure how we could find out, unless you happen to have the serial number of your old one, or some other identifying mark. Would be kind of funny if it was though....

Chad

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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 4:56 pm 
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Does it have a slider or solid window in the front?? That thing was a PITA to keep it shiny, for some reason it didnt like wax. 8O I dont think I ever seen a serial number on it, I bought it back in 1983 in Billings MT. I doubt it is it, but ya never know.

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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 5:28 pm 
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Tilt, there is no window in the front, just an opening with a compression boot. So I'm betting it's not the same one.

Chad

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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 5:16 pm 
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hey nice luv chaddmann. I dont think i ever saw your truck before. Good luck on getting it the way you want it :)

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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2009 8:47 am 
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bcg187 wrote:
hey nice luv chaddmann. I dont think i ever saw your truck before. Good luck on getting it the way you want it :)


Thanks BCG, as for an update here is the latest, sorry no pics.

Got the engine out, need to put my engine stand together so I can get it mounted up and start looking at it. The exhaust manifold is off of it so the ports have all be exposed to dirt and dust and whatever else has found it's way in there. The previous owner said that when he got it, the engine was in the bed exposed so even though it was rebuilt some years ago I really don't know what kind of shape it's in. I guess the good thing is the engine in my other love is basically brand new, only has about 3,000 miles on it since I bought it, (was a new long block when I bought it), so if the one in it isn't good or has some issues, I can just do a little swap.

Next will be removing the transmission, I think it will be easier to put some of the parts back on it if it is out plus I've never actually taken one out so I need to do that just for my own curiosity....of course we all know what curiosity did to the cat....

Continued some tear down, got the front bumper off, and the rear bumper is almost off, need to cut a bolt off, they tightened it so much that it bent the washer up around the head of the bolt so I can't get a wrench on it (good times). Getting ready to take the bed off so I can get a look at everything under it. The previous owner painted everything from the bottom up, but didn't remove the bed so hopefully I won't find any big surprises. My order of POR-15 should be here today so maybe this weekend I will roll it out in the driveway and hose it down clean it up and get the interior taken care of, then will be the rest of the frame. I'm going to take the fenders off and POR-15 the inside of them since this is a common problem area hopefull treating the inside will keep them fresh for years to come.

It's slow going, job, 4 kids with constant activities and just life in general seem to take time away from it, but I just keep plugging along and eventually it will get done, (but the g/f gave me a deadline of the fall when it starts getting cold to get done so she can start parking in the garage again). I guess we'll see how that goes :twisted:

More to come as I get to it, and I'll try to remember to take pics of the POR-15 before and afters.

CTMANDU, I think I'm seriously looking at one of those dashes when you get them done so keep me posted on the progress...

Later days and better lays...

Chad

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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2009 9:42 am 
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chaddmann wrote:
CTMANDU, I think I'm seriously looking at one of those dashes when you get them done so keep me posted on the progress...



Chad



will do... i am trying to get back to working on it and the bumper for the luv and build a rear wing for the opel...

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 9:51 pm 
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Ok, I'm back, with an update. Got half of the floor pan coated with POR15 (the worst side) started redoing the brakes. After I put all of the rear back together, the drum will not go back on. I've adjusted it all the way out, not sure if maybe the E-Brake is stuck and binding things up. So moved to the front, the front calipers were trashed, so bought some new ones. See the pic attached, looks like I get to send one back.

Image

So I also needed to take the front axle out to replace the CV's, I got it all out ok, but upon opening it up, turns out that it was missing something. Was a bit dry, does anyone know if there is a good way to clean out the tube and verify it is still good?

Image

Image

I have a new CVShaft for the left side and had one for the right as well but it seems to be missing half of what should be there. Also going to replace the upper and lower ball joints they are ripped as well as the tie rods right and left as well as center. I can't seem to get the center section to release from the steering box, and can't get the spindle to release from the upper a-arm. Anyone have any suggestions?

Image

Image

So that's it for now, will post more later.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 11:42 pm 
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Its been awhile since i did it but try taking the steering box off the frame. I remember there was quite a bit of tension there. After fighting with it forever my ol man suggested taking the box off and sure as shit it worked like a charm.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 8:35 am 
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On the drag link put a jack under the threaded end and put some tension up on it then smack the steer arm and the joint should pop apart.

For your upper i used a long pry bar and wedged it on top of the spindle and under the control arm (this works easier if you have a buddy to help) then smack the the spindle right at the side where the ball joint is.

I did this when i replaced the upper arms with Trooper arms,ball joints,and spacers.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 10:36 am 
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bcg187 wrote:
Its been awhile since i did it but try taking the steering box off the frame. I remember there was quite a bit of tension there. After fighting with it forever my ol man suggested taking the box off and sure as shit it worked like a charm.


Tried this, beat the crap out of it with a 2lb hammer and it still won't give. Any other suggestions?

Chad

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 2:58 pm 
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Listen to no one. I have not heard any ball joint advice i like yet.

Dealing with ball joints can be dangerous. And doing it wrong can also make it way more difficult than it needs to be.

It does not really matter what part it is, never fully remove the nut. Screw it off so that it is finger tight. Sometimes you may have to fully remove it with a spanner as it could be tight all the way with rust or crud. Clean the thread up with a wire brush and spray on some penertrating oil and screw it back on with your fingers.
This serves two purposes, the first is it stops whatever it is you are pulling apart from flying apart, not so important on a luv as nothing on it would fly out and kill you as you are not releasing captive springs etc like a car with double A-arms.
The second purpose is that the nut being on the thread stops you damaging the thread with a hammer while you are whailing about trying to get the balljoint to let go. Not so important if you are fitting new balljoints but it is if you are trying to service driveshafts etc.

You do not get a ball joint apart by hitting on the threaded part of the shaft of the balljoint. You damage the thread and can even mushroom the shaft so it will not go through the hole.


To get it apart it helps to know how it works.
The shaft on the balljoint is tapered, it goes into a tapered hole in whatever it mates too. As you tighten it up the two tapers sort of lock together as one tries to pull through the other.
The trick to geting it apart is getting the tapered surfaces to release. There are two ways to do this.

The first is, if you are replacing ball joints, buy one of those fork type balljoint seperators. Its basiclly a U shaped fork and the prongs on the fork are tapered. Under $20 from a chain type auto parts store. Belt it in with a bloody big hammer.

The second way is to shock/deform the socket side of the taper lock to get the tapers to release from each other.
In the picture of the Upper ball joint. The top part of the spindle, get a large hammer (sledge hammer) and hold it against one side with the head of the hammer at 90 deg to the shaft of the balljoint, then using the largest hammer you can get a swing with smack the opposite side of the top of the spindle. Two or three good hits and you should have shock released the taper hold.


With the drag link, you would do it the same but by placing a hammer on one side of the end of the pitman arm and hitting the other. A small jack with gentle upward pressure could also help, but it would be more for a visual cue to see that its released.


If you are going all serial killer with a hammer it pays to wear saftey glasses.
Cheapo chinese builders hammers ar not the hammers im talking about above. Head off to your local hardware store and buy some decent hammers.


Cheers, Bob.

P.S. im a bit jealous of how good your Luv is. Its in pretty good order bodywise.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 3:48 pm 
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rodeobob wrote:
Listen to no one. I have not heard any ball joint advice i like yet.

Dealing with ball joints can be dangerous. And doing it wrong can also make it way more difficult than it needs to be.

It does not really matter what part it is, never fully remove the nut. Screw it off so that it is finger tight. Sometimes you may have to fully remove it with a spanner as it could be tight all the way with rust or crud. Clean the thread up with a wire brush and spray on some penertrating oil and screw it back on with your fingers. I bought the right size socket for this, sprayed it with PB blaster but the nuts aren't budging. I even tried a cheater bar at the end of a breaker bar and I swear if I pulled any harder the breaker bar is going to break, and not in a good way.
This serves two purposes, the first is it stops whatever it is you are pulling apart from flying apart, not so important on a luv as nothing on it would fly out and kill you as you are not releasing captive springs etc like a car with double A-arms.
The second purpose is that the nut being on the thread stops you damaging the thread with a hammer while you are whailing about trying to get the balljoint to let go. Not so important if you are fitting new balljoints but it is if you are trying to service driveshafts etc.

You do not get a ball joint apart by hitting on the threaded part of the shaft of the balljoint. You damage the thread and can even mushroom the shaft so it will not go through the hole.


To get it apart it helps to know how it works.
The shaft on the balljoint is tapered, it goes into a tapered hole in whatever it mates too. As you tighten it up the two tapers sort of lock together as one tries to pull through the other.
The trick to geting it apart is getting the tapered surfaces to release. There are two ways to do this.

The first is, if you are replacing ball joints, buy one of those fork type balljoint seperators. Its basiclly a U shaped fork and the prongs on the fork are tapered. Under $20 from a chain type auto parts store. Belt it in with a bloody big hammer. Did this, no joy. I think part of the problem is that with removing the front axle I released the torsian bars, which in turn took any pressure off of the spindle, so now it just flops around. In using the ball joint seperator there is no tension so it just goes all the way in and the taper does nothing.

The second way is to shock/deform the socket side of the taper lock to get the tapers to release from each other.
In the picture of the Upper ball joint. The top part of the spindle, get a large hammer (sledge hammer) and hold it against one side with the head of the hammer at 90 deg to the shaft of the balljoint, then using the largest hammer you can get a swing with smack the opposite side of the top of the spindle. Two or three good hits and you should have shock released the taper hold. I will have to give this a try this weekend, I'll let you know how it turns out.


With the drag link, you would do it the same but by placing a hammer on one side of the end of the pitman arm and hitting the other. A small jack with gentle upward pressure could also help, but it would be more for a visual cue to see that its released.


If you are going all serial killer with a hammer it pays to wear saftey glasses.
Cheapo chinese builders hammers ar not the hammers im talking about above. Head off to your local hardware store and buy some decent hammers.


Cheers, Bob.

P.S. im a bit jealous of how good your Luv is. Its in pretty good order bodywise.


Thanks for the input Bob, comments are in red.

Chad

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 6:15 pm 
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chaddmann wrote:
rodeobob wrote:
It does not really matter what part it is, never fully remove the nut. Screw it off so that it is finger tight. Sometimes you may have to fully remove it with a spanner as it could be tight all the way with rust or crud. Clean the thread up with a wire brush and spray on some penertrating oil and screw it back on with your fingers. I bought the right size socket for this, sprayed it with PB blaster but the nuts aren't budging. I even tried a cheater bar at the end of a breaker bar and I swear if I pulled any harder the breaker bar is going to break, and not in a good way.


Thanks for the input Bob, comments are in red.

Chad



Sorry do not get what you are trying to undo. The Nuts on the balljoints??? Its undone in the picture. They could have a castelated nut with a split pin through it. But a breaker bar with a bit of pipe on the end you would be able to shear the split pin off.


Picture tells a thousand words.

If something is really really tight and wont come undone and you think it should, have a good look at the thread, make sure its a RH thread and not a LH one.


Bob.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 6:17 pm 
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rodeobob wrote:
chaddmann wrote:
rodeobob wrote:
It does not really matter what part it is, never fully remove the nut. Screw it off so that it is finger tight. Sometimes you may have to fully remove it with a spanner as it could be tight all the way with rust or crud. Clean the thread up with a wire brush and spray on some penertrating oil and screw it back on with your fingers. I bought the right size socket for this, sprayed it with PB blaster but the nuts aren't budging. I even tried a cheater bar at the end of a breaker bar and I swear if I pulled any harder the breaker bar is going to break, and not in a good way.


Thanks for the input Bob, comments are in red.

Chad



Sorry do not get what you are trying to undo. The Nuts on the balljoints??? Its undone in the picture. They could have a castelated nut with a split pin through it. But a breaker bar with a bit of pipe on the end you would be able to shear the split pin off.


Picture tells a thousand words.

If something is really really tight and wont come undone and you think it should, have a good look at the thread, make sure its a RH thread and not a LH one.


Bob.


The large nut on top of the ball joint that holds it in the a-arm.

Image

I did manage to get the spindle off, thanks to your advice, after I re-read what you wrote it made more sense. Got the lower ball joints out as well, now just need to get the big nut off.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 7:11 pm 
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What socket do you have for the ball joint?? 1/2 drive???


See if you can get a 3/4 drive and a length of pipe.
A truck of farm machinery workshop will have a 3/4 set.



Having said that, the 1/2 breaker bar i have i could easily put 4 foot of pipe on it and it would take it.


Bob.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 9:35 pm 
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It is a 3/4 drive socket, but I do not have a 3/4 drive bar only 1/2, so I have a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter and a 2 ft pipe. I'll just crank on it and if it breaks it breaks.

Thanks again Bob.

Chad

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