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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 12:08 pm 
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Weird maybe s10 or camaro? I have the front half of the s10 driveline from the nv3500 if it wasnt a 2 piece i would have taken the whole thing. I have my stock driveline and a suburban one. Im pretty sure i can have the shop weld the end of the s10 shaft to the rest of my stock one for just under $100.
As soon as i get back home im going to be tearing into the front end to drop the axle assembly. Getting to that point where every day im not out there making progress is putting a huge break in my plans.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 3:45 pm 
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I feel ya. My truck was at my friends house and we work different shifts so I was limited to just weekends. It was driving me crazy

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 7:49 pm 
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yeah makes things difficult, I am a good way thru taking my front end apart I didn't have nearly as much time today as I wanted to work on it will try to get it the rest of the way apart and start putting everything back on that is going on before I call it a night. there is still quite a bit to do today

ahh one of these days I will have the $$$$ for a T56 :lol: :lol:

edit: didn't get as much done as I wanted but managed to get the driver side brake/hub off, spindle unbolted shock off and tie rod off. couldn't get to the lower control arm mount plate, its too late to break out the impact driver but I can get it knocked out tomorrow and get the axle shaft pulled and reassemble everything else. and repeat on passenger side. marked my torsion bar mount location, counted threads and made a marking on the bolt/frame to get it back to the same spot. should only take another 30 mins to get the shaft out tomorrow and then throw it back together.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 6:33 pm 
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Got out there a bit today and got a bit done.
Got the driver side apart and pulled the driveshaft out of it. Reassembled the suspension brakes and wheel again then broke the 4 bolts on the isolators that hold the center section to the frame. Tomorrow gotta roll it back out and pull the passenger side apart pull the axleshaft and i can drop the axle housing out.

Image
Made a rubber seal to keep water and gunk out of my hub now that the axle isnt sealing it up
Image

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 3:19 am 
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thought i posted this one too, hard to do from my phone. anyway this is the driver side as it sits without the axleshaft, near the middle you can see the socket the shaft sticks into and was held into with a ring. today I will be doing the same to the passenger side and then unbolting and dropping the axle tube and diff out the bottom. no more clearance and dead weight issues for me 8)

Image

in the upper post the rubber seal was made from a piece of old dirtbike innertube I had sitting around I sandwiched between the spindle and the steering mount piece, cant think of the name... used some wheel bearing grease all around the inside to keep the water out of it.. gave everything inside a good coating of grease and torqued the driver side down its good to go.
got the whole week off work so the gm can get a bigger bonus :evil: so should be making some good headway with the truck this week would like to fab a trans mount and get the engine/tranny installed. i measured today and the s10 shifter will be within an inch or two of the center of my stock hole in the floor so wont be cutting much of anything :ebiggrin would like to get the cab back on... maybe go nuts and get the engine compartment painted and bedline the bed :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 7:12 pm 
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well got back out there today and its official I am now 2WD... spent a little while trying to figure out how to get the front axle out, couldn't twist it out without pulling the steering shaft because the plate the isolators were on hit the steering shaft and the frame before it twisted enough to drop out

so I chopped one mounting flange off of the driver side so I could get it out of there faster
Image

axle center/diff pulled out finally
Image

the stubby little axle shafts that were in the sockets outside of the isolator plates
Image

officially 2wd 8)
Image

another shot of where the axles used to go, you can see the rubber seal I made to keep the inside of the hubs clean and dry lots of open space in there now. as you can see I still need to paint the under side of the front of the frame now that the axle isn't in my way
Image

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 12:08 am 
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little progress today not much. got the engine sitting where it needs to be, tranny mocked up, flywheel installed got a measurement for the new driveline

tranny in
Image

driveline length isn't too far off
Image

I can have just the yoke end of the s10 driveline adapted to the stock shaft a couple inches back from stock.
Image

the shifter will even come thru the stock hole in the floor 8)

decided to ditch the suburban crossmember and make a new one out of a piece of c channel steel across the bottom of the frame with a 1" raised center to mount the trans to. without the big mount from the 4x4 im about 5" too low on the mount

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 5:04 pm 
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Spent another couple hrs in the garage sanding the engine compartment and layed down some primer
Image

Image

Then went ahead amd sanded the front around where the headlights and on top of the radiator support etc. Gotta run to buy some more primer and some paint

edit: few hours later
Image

Image

didn't spray any primer down low In the wheel well it is all going to be stripped with a wire wheel and have bed liner rolled on
Image

first coat of the new white, ran in two spots i touched up, i have a space heater sitting in the engine compartment so when i go down in the morning to spray the next coat it wont be 35* in there
Image

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 9:30 pm 
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Were you planning on making a cross member where the front axel was, I don't know if you mentioned it before.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 10:44 pm 
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i had mentioned it but decided against it, the axle was bolted to the frame on rubber isolators so it doesn't seem necessary to make a crossmember and ruin all this wonderful clearance i just got :lol: will have the trans crossmember made in the next couple days trying to get as much done as i can this week while im off work.

thought someone might get a laugh out of this, i made my truck a hotbox to warm up the metal before i spray another coat of paint in the morning. took a little space heater and a piece of the clear plastic i use to shield the garage from overspray

Image

Image

should take paint better when it warms up a bit it had been really cold all week

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 10:53 pm 
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1. The plastic sheeting actually touching the heater is a really bad idea..
2. The axle was the crossmember...

Just my.02...

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 10:56 pm 
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mytmouz wrote:
1. The plastic sheeting actually touching the heater is a really bad idea..
2. The axle was the crossmember...

Just my.02...

X2

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 11:43 pm 
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So do you think i would be better off if i made a new xmember under the frame up front?

And yeah i turned it off for the night going to turn it on about an hour before i go down to paint it. And the body of that heater doesnt get more than warm i have it on pretty low i just need to bring the metal up to 60+ degrees. Its only been the 40s this week here.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 4:08 am 
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You for sure have a problem here . The crossmember where the torsion bars go into has leverage on it and you are proabaly adding weight . Something must be done here also and it must not flex from the torsional load of the bar .
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w216 ... b8bfb4.jpg


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 6:34 am 
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I would run a bar. When I put the v8 in my Nissan Hardbody I had to make a new one as the oil pan hit the old one. I also run the stock one on my avatar truck...

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 8:40 am 
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i can definitely make a new xmember up front. and me and my dad had been talking about plating the bottom of the stock trans xmember for strength. I dont want to make my frame weak and easy to tweak. So you all seem to be in agreement i need a xmember up front and need to strengthen the middle by the trans, looking st the frame is does seem like a long way between the front of the frame and the next welded in xmember

Im not sure that i have added much weight. Stock i had an iron trans and t case and my new trans is only 110lbs engine is about 420lbs in stock trim. Aluminum intake + radiator no emissions gear, no front axle etc it should be close to stock 4wd weight maybe a bit over.. will weigh it in when its running.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 10:51 am 
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You do NEED a cross member where the axel was.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 12:13 pm 
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.Alright i will have to make one when i make the trans xmember. Going to use some c channel for the trans xmember might as well buy a long piece and make two. I Hadnt realized the 2wds have an xmember where the axle was

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 29, 2013 6:41 pm 
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Made some progress and got some materials. Made the first part of my trans xmember. Bought a steel tube to make a xmember where the front axle was. And got a layout figured out for my exhaust system.

3"x1.5" channel for the xmember.
Image

The 2x4 is the same thickness as my trans isolator/mount so i just need to add a plate or piece of square steel tube to make up the rest.
Image

Welding these 1/4" plates to the channel and running bolts thru the frame to keep it more rigid, as well as replacing the 7/16" diameter bolts that go vertically thru the frame with 1/2" diameter for some more reassurance

Image

The horizontal bolts will come out just clear of the cab outrigger and welds on it. hence the offset plate on the xmember so I didn't have to mess with the outrigger coming off the frame,
Image

Rounded off the corners to save my back and the back of my head while im under the truck :lol: that was a heck of a sharp edge! also got it cleaned up to weld the plates on. will give it the same treatment with the JD black paint when im done welding the plates and the raised center mount section.
Image

Im also rebuilding the stock trans xmember solidly welded into the frame with a 4" dia x 3" long pipe section for the exhaust to go thru on the passenger side and another piece of channel as the base to build the xmember from with a plated top made to angle down from the stock xmember down to the top of the 1.5" thick channel, I want it to look original.... you know as original as It can with a 4" pipe with a 3" exhaust going thru it :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 8:48 pm 
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My dads comin over in the morning so we can set up the xmember get the plates welded on and make the raised section for the mount to bolt to. We are planning on getting the cab back on this week if everything goes well which i am learning not to expect :lol:

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