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PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 8:21 pm 
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ill look into it down the road man i like the idea of them

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 11:04 pm 
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love4theluv wrote:
thanks for the heads up!
the motor will be getting a quick test fit when I get the trans/case tomorrow. the one I have is pretty good sized so may not clear well, did you use the powerbyace mounts too? have you fired it up yet


Yes i have fired it and drove it around a little but having trouble with t case ether is to high and hits t-bar on pass side or if i put the t-case clock ring on it hangs to low so solid front axle search is in progress. And yes i used the powerbyace mount brackets. By the way did you find a way to use coil over on the front?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 11:12 pm 
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YAHOOS77 wrote:
ill look into it down the road man i like the idea of them

i will see if i can find the flow chart for the two I saw it once and the difference is really impressive

theluvthatcould wrote:
love4theluv wrote:
thanks for the heads up!
the motor will be getting a quick test fit when I get the trans/case tomorrow. the one I have is pretty good sized so may not clear well, did you use the powerbyace mounts too? have you fired it up yet


Yes i have fired it and drove it around a little but having trouble with t case ether is to high and hits t-bar on pass side or if i put the t-case clock ring on it hangs to low so solid front axle search is in progress. And yes i used the powerbyace mount brackets. By the way did you find a way to use coil over on the front?

wha ttrans and case are you using? I searched picknpull and couldn't find a single 4x4 5 speed in a fullsize and the newer ones are dsd so that wouldn't work anyway. gotta figure out which 5 speed I can use with a psd t case. really don't want to get a 700r4 but it mat happen

just picked up a 110v 135A Lincoln mig welder with a regulator and a long gas line, cart, wire and everything but the bottle. will see about picking one up tomorrow and get started with the misc small fab work.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 8:30 pm 
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700r4 & np208. the 5speed nv4500 is stonger if you can find one for a good price but expect to pay $500 + & good luck finding one in a pick n pull they get picked quick & an np208 or np241 pass drop work best for light weight.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 1:05 am 
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theluvthatcould wrote:
700r4 & np208. the 5speed nv4500 is stonger if you can find one for a good price but expect to pay $500 + & good luck finding one in a pick n pull they get picked quick & an np208 or np241 pass drop work best for light weight.


i would kill for an nv4500 right now. I keep finding 700r4/np208 combos for good deals so that's probably what im going to go with until I find a nv3500/4500 with the right case and the time to convert back to a manual. called a couple guys that are selling the 700r4/208's. a shift kit on a 700r4 wouldn't kill me to drive... just a bit less exciting, but the higher o/d ratio in the 700 would be nice as well

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 11:51 pm 
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found a 700r4/np208 im going to go pickup next weekend and getting my argon tank tomorrow.
engine is all sealed up now was waiting on a new oil pickup tube, popped the oil pan on, checked that it sat at the right point in the pan and gave it a small tack to keep the tube in place (trick I saw on powerblock). will be ready to drop in when I get the trans hooked up 8)

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 21, 2013 3:28 pm 
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Hell ya. :D Im ready to see this 4.3 down in there. My mounts from powerbyace shipped out on friday and i missed picking up my motor lastweek so i should get it on hump day. Im hoping to have mine in this weekend but I was told toady to expect 12hr shifts this weekend so we shall see :esad

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 21, 2013 11:18 pm 
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Only takes a few mins to drop in its a real good fit. I need to finish smoothing my intake its about there now. And strip and repaint my headers with hi-temp paint.
At least the change from a 700r4 to a 4l60/70e will be easy down the road when i get bored
The 4x4 makes this a bit more complicated, a 2wd 5 speed is easy to find. If only i could run a divorced case :lol:

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 11:01 pm 
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made a big score today, took a drive down to Bend, Or to get parts I needed out of an 84 suburban
Image

700r4 and PSD NP208 case. the engine was a goodwrench replacement so im hoping I got lucky and the trans is too Image

front and rear drivelines
Image

got the trans crossmember along with it. I crawled under the truck with it and it is just narrower than the frame if not just barely too wide to fit between the frame rails. im planning to weld angle iron pieces on the frame rails and drill holes to bolt the crossmember to them. made this whole process so much easier it will only take very minor mods to work under a luv and bolt in... :lol:
Image

doing some measuring and and cleanup tomorrow morning before work. engine will be ready to be bolted in tomorrow and will be doing a mockup to check clearance with the case and shifter

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 10:19 pm 
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well the trans part # says it was made in '84 so its not likely a goodwrench unit, seems like it may have been rebuilt at some point there isn't any side to side shaft play, took the pan off and it looks good in there, will need a new filter and such but it seems like its going to be good to go

xmember will go just fine between the frame rails with a couple mounts welded in. just need to make a few mounts and brackets, have the driveline shortened for the rear and i should be ready to start driving!

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 3:46 pm 
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if anyone was looking for clarification on the s10 4x4 oil pan clearing on luv 4x4s
Image

good clearance all around
Image

Image

got the transmission mocked up
Image
Image
engine bolted in to the mounts
Image

I haven't cut the xmember yet the trans just clears it enough to move up and down without contact. that suburban xmember is the same width as the stock one and fits right behind the stock one at the point the 4x4 700r4 mount sits so I don't need to modify it much if any.. hoping to cut out the upper half of the stock xmember and leave part of it for the strength and install this bolt in xmember behind it to mount the trans/case onto, the case will have to be unbolted from the trans to come out if I leave the stock xmember bottom piece.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 4:46 pm 
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started cutting the xmember, going to pull the cab so I can leave part of it intact across the bottom and don't have enough room to cut across the top with the cab on. shouldn't take long to get it off since all my wiring is out anyway just a few things to unbolt

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 12:29 am 
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brake lines disconnected, cab mounting bolts removed, steering shaft pulled, fuel hard lines unbolted from under the cab, its ready to come off when I get a few cinderblocks and some 2x6's. going to use my hoist to left the front and a pair or floor jacks to lift the rear and roll the chassis out from underneath after it is shimmed up on the blocks, have to make the cab sit In the garage with the room to be able to roll the chassis back under it so its not sitting out in the driveway In the rain and such.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 5:41 pm 
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made some progress this morning
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

the new xmember clamped in place
it sits touching the old one and the 4 bolt holes line up with the frame so im going to drill thru it and weld nuts on top and run bolts from the bottom
Image

going to lose some ground clearance but I don't do heavy wheeling anyway
Image

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 7:40 pm 
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spent a good part of the day out working on the truck. did a bunch of sanding in the engine compartment and finally cut out the remainder of the battery tray, still gotta get the tight spots but got the bulk of it done, bought some paint thinner for prep before primer
Image

got the new xmember bolted in place and chopped out the old one
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location of new xmember mounts
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and ran into the next problem, tcase hits the crossmember about 3/4 of an inch before it comes to center where it needs to mount
Image
how far off it is from where it needs to be
Image

to give you an idea of how big this sob really is
Image

either need to cut the tbar mount and shorten it by an inch to clear the tcase or take the bar out and go to coils
anyone know if you can go coilover on a 4x4? there isnt much room between the shock and the axleshaft

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 8:45 pm 
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As far as coils over go, I am sure something could be built to work. Also noticed you got metal shavings in the trans as you cut the cross member out, if they get in the trans it will tear it up internally. At this point in time if it was me I would take a step back and do some more planning. Since you started this build you have jumped between differant transmissions and transfer cases. A few days of planning will will take care of many headaches down the road.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 9:02 pm 
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took the vacuum and a dental pick and got the shavings cleaned outta there before I mocked up the tcase.
going to have to stick with the trans and case I have now and make it work, the trans is just what I need, the case is huge but its one of the very few options I have for psd and the right mounting pattern.

I have a buddy who works in a shop and deals with a lot of suspension doing some browsing to find a coilover he can assemble to be narrow enough at the bottom to clear my axle, going to end up looking more like a car strut. if I end up going that way, not thinking that moving the tbar mount will work well as you pointed out. would prefer coilovers if I can find a set that fits and clears everything with minor modification to the control arms and tower. I haven't seen coils on a 4x4 luv yet been searching

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 4:32 pm 
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Only thing that comes to my mind is if the trans/tcase can go up/down to clear the torsion bar. If your choice for where to put the new cross member was somewhat arbitrary, just where it bolts up, maybe a little up/down would fit better? For that matter though, how is clearance looking in the trans tunnel to begin with?

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 9:01 pm 
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800xl wrote:
Only thing that comes to my mind is if the trans/tcase can go up/down to clear the torsion bar. If your choice for where to put the new cross member was somewhat arbitrary, just where it bolts up, maybe a little up/down would fit better? For that matter though, how is clearance looking in the trans tunnel to begin with?


the case is going to need floor mods to clear for sure but the trans clears just fine. driveshaft will make it to the front diff without a major issue its close but it seems like it will make it I mocked up a cardboard tube to check it.

im trying to figure out my front suspension I went down and if I am able to make the bottom of the coil mount 1" above the axleshaft mounted on a hoop from the lower control arm and beef up the upper mount point I have about 10 1/4" to mount the coilover. im sure there is room to gain another 2" up top so I may be able to raise the top mounting point and fit a 12" coilover... something like the big hoops wickedmayhem made but a lot smaller just to get the clearance i need while making it possible to mount the coilover vertically. seems lilke this is pretty much uncharted territory in the luv world so im trying to find a good starting point
doodle of the BASIC idea of what im getting at
Image

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 11:20 pm 
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Not trying to be a smart aleck, but here goes. The reason it is uncharted territory is you are using the stock front end. SAS is usually done in these swaps as it is somewhat easier to do than all the modding you are doing, and you gain clearance and such...

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