LUVTruck.com

Good thing because dirt and grime won't get kicked up in the air.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

yea good thing anymore smartass comments to make on my thread or are you done yet?

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

Not really.

You come here to show your build then do a mirror post at the S10 site too. You are trying to document this build, if others try this I am pointing out the correct way to build a engine. I have built at least a hundred engines in my job as a mechanic. I have built everything from a single cylinder Honda engine up to 12v92 Detroit Diesel. If you are going to build a engine do it right, setting new parts in a dirty environment, not setting correct spring pressure, not doing a valve job etc is not rebuilding a engine. If you can't do it correct then don't show others how to do it.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

im on the s10 site because they had these motors stock so they have the info I need to make this easier, I have browsed s10forum a lot to find out the misc details I needed.
the crank was taken outside and sprayed down and wiped off to get rid of the sticky coating carefully then taken inside under a fluorescent light to check it for any foreign crap that may have been picked up and was gone over before it was installed.
the valve springs don't matter in this case because im ordering new ones so I don't really give a damn about the spring pressure of the ones im tossing as soon as I pull them
im not doing all this on my own blindly looking at a wikihow page to walk me thru it I have my dad here walking me thru the major assembly and making sure I don't do anything really stupid and ruin my new motor as I go so im plenty confident that when I put it back together it will fire up and run as its supposed to. the only thing im not having done is the angled valve grind and I will be doing that within a year im sure it will run fine until that point and get me from a-b without incident..
i realize im not doing this to the golden standard of ASE perfection but it will run just fine with the valves lapped for a few months im taking care to get all the important clearances where they need to be, everything torqued down right and im not going to have a small pile of misc bolts left when im done so I see no major issue with what im doing.

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

The issus is as Luvr8 stated. Other people see a build, and not knowing any better, tney folow it. If someone does not point that out, the uninformed try to do what you are doing, which is taking a chance it will work. If you screw up yours doing it your way, it is tour mistake. A new person blindly following along your path shouldn't go into it without knowing the facts, which you seem to be taking offence to when they are pointed out. It is your build, and your thread. It is also your resonsibility to.be sure any shortcomings are pointed out. As an example, you took the pic of the crank on end, outside. Until that was pointed out by someone else, no one knew you were doing it inside...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

i dont have a problem with him pointing out that im not doing the full out build with every detail covered I said in the beginning im doing this the cheaper way to get it running sooner. its easy to say the right way would be do this.. but to go out of your way to be sarcastic is another thing, I don't like making a big deal out of it but it annoys the hell out of me when people are condescending
I would fully recommend anyone thinking about doing a build like this gets the book and read it front to back and sideways before starting on it, and buy or rent the right tools, have all the recommended machine work done or your taking a risk of having there be an issue after assembly and needing a bunch of backtracking. the parts im using are the right ones and most of the processes im doing are the way it should be but im taking some shortcuts and saving a bit of money as pointed out.

got my cam today, will be starting assembly tomorrow.

staying safely in its bag until its time to go in the block

also picked up a few tungsten carbide dremel bits and a finer grinding bit to test out on a water jacket, it they work well im going to pick up a few more for the ports.
also ordered my new valve springs
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-2013-Corve ... cf&vxp=mtr
and retainers
http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMP-1-290-BEEH ... c8&vxp=mtr
with these retainers those springs will drop right into the vortec heads, they are rated for .570" valve lift so there is plenty of safety room with a .500" lift cam.

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

Look I am not trying to slam you here but I see something that might need to be addressed. Your cam has a .500 lift and you said your valve train is good to .570. At .500 lift is that with or without your ratio rockers figured in?

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

.500 is with the stock 1.52 ratio figured in, the lobe lift is .334. calc'ed out it comes to .507" at the valve.
and again I don't mean to throw a fit about the points your making because the points your making are valid for anyone who may be reading along to learn how to do it the ideal way and you obviously have a lot more experience than I do.

figured while im opening boxes and getting ready to assemble I will show some of the difference between the 91 (grey) and 97 (blk/blu) heads on the intake side
with the tops of the port lined up there is a lot more open area on the 97 gasket, port width is the same but you would have to grind the 91 heads down paper thin to get as much port volume

also the 91 heads have 6 bolts per head holding them to the intake manifold, and the 97's have 4 at a different angle. the 91 bolts are about 90* to the head while the 97 is closer to 45* I had a pic but photobucket isn't working right so I will upload it later.

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

made a little bit of progress. worked until 4am today so I wasn't feeling the complete assembly
got the rings all installed

one piston installed, ring gap checked perfect recommended .016 and .015

got them all in, torqued down.. used a very generous amount of assembly lube on all the bearings, got a 10oz tube so I have plenty oiled the cylinders, next step im putting the cam and timing set in, dropping in the lifters and will have the heads ready to go by the time I get the valve springs and retainers Wednesday or Thursday

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

not sure if im going to pick it up or not but I got offered a 87 rx7 rear end with LSD and 4.10 gears, had 89k miles complete with subframe, new bushings and racing beat links for $100.. sounds like a screamin deal to me and if I blow it to pieces in a few months im not going to be too heartbroken about it but the truck weighs nothing in the rear end, probably less than an rx7 does when the beds empty.. I think it will hold out just fine If I get it and don't wail on it with a load in the back... pic of the irs setup

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

If you need headers theirs are the ones i used on my luv 4.3l v6.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-6 ... refilter=1

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4.3l V6. 5 speed MT 2.55 in the back.

those look like they fit great. and they barely cost more than the pacesetter shorty headers.
I was going to go with the shortys because I wasn't sure if any long tubes would fit without hacking or hammering, I will have to see if they make the same ones for the 96+ heads

edit:
got my valve springs today, got a set of 16 for a bit less than compcams wants for their springs. these are the stock springs for the ls2, ls3 and ls9, they also fit the ls6 but are stiffer than the stock springs. im assuming these fit the vortec v8 heads the same as they do my v6 heads

these are progressive rate springs, easier to start opening, little less friction little less wear


going to pick up that rx7 rear end Friday, will be taking the bed off and getting some measurements for the mounts and frame changes needed for the subframe to mount up

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

couldn't edit my edit so another short update
did some slight porting on one of my heads. they are upside down in the pic
the port on the right was started at this point, two on the right show the marks from where they should be


the one on the right shown closer, still needs some finishing but im happy with it so far. I need to pick up a less aggressive wheel to smooth the ports out

same with these ones, these are the ports from above only slightly worked. I got them closer to the outside edge of the gasket, smoothed the port out a bit. not perfect but they are a lot better, no corners of the ports hanging over, will finish them when I get the finishing bit for the dremel

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

picked up my 87 rx7 rear end
lug pattern is a 5x114.3 = 5x4.5" found a set of wheels spacer/adapters to match the rear bolt pattern and get to the same width at the rx7 56.5" the front will be 56 3/4" vs stock 52 3/4 so I can find matching wheels with the right offset to clear on both ends.


the whole assembly. I have everything but the calipers and I will order a set from rockauto with new hardware and calipers in the near future. its basically a triangulated 3 link on each side with a little baby sway bar.

even has aftermarket links worth what I paid for the whole rear

still nearly impossible to read but this is limited slip and 4.10, requires a special 90w fluid for clutch type lsd's which im going to change frequently and hopefully it will survive a lil while longer


have a few more things that will be here Wednesday mostly for the girlfriends car, but I have the other set of head bolts coming and the valve springs retainers should be here in the next couple days too. need to touch up the exhaust ports on the heads and they will be ready to go.

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

short update, I got my spring retainers finally, anyone interested they are the compcamp 787-12 retainers (787-16) is the same but includes 16.. they sent a set of 16 even tho I paid for a set of 12... no complaints
dad and i lapped the valves on one head and got the other disassembled. during the process we found out that I have a slightly bent intake valve and one of my exhaust seats is mis-shapen, it seals with rubbing alcohol in the chamber but its not totally round you can see where there is slight pitting in one spot that didn't come out with the lapping compound. ordering new intake/exhaust valves to be sure they are all good

once I get my new valves im going to seal test all the valves and if all is well its going together, if I have any issues or if the other head has a jacked up valve seat like this one did they are going to the machine shop, after all the upgrades I don't want to pop a set of messed up heads on. on the plus side the valves stick out a bit installed so there is plenty of room for a grind on seats. calling the shop for a quote on the work tomorrow afternoon just in case.

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

got my new intake/exhaust valves, finished messing with my ports and got the new valves installed, gave them a quick spin with some find lapping compound to make sure they seal well with the ground seats, carefully block sanded the exhaust and intake manifold surfaces and the head gasket surface with some fine grit paper, this is not the recommended process for cleaning up the surfaces, but it wont hurt it to insure a smoother sealing surface

few pics




not sure if this is common practice or what but I got anal about details and beveled the edge of the valve guide towers (pic was before final cleaning and smoothening

finally got my financing worked out, tomorrow im making a big parts order, hopefully by the end of the week I will have
Edelbrock 2114 Intake Manifold
Holley 390cfm carb + rebuild set
HEI distributor
Carb plenum for custom cold air intake
pacesetter shorty headers
19x22 aluminum radiator
Crankshaft keys
plug wires, plugs, oil/clt sensors w/wire pigtails
electric radiator fan

when I have time off to hit the yard I will pick up a transmission and order a clutch+flywheel, track down a pair of seats, will probably get the t-case off craigslist and save a few bucks.
will be updating as I go along the next few weeks, hoping to have it back on the road in a month to month and a half but we will see

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

got everything on the list buy the rad and fan ordered, going to look at a few stock unit options next time I hit picknpull, and i put a bid on a holley 390 carb since there weren't any buy it now for a decent price
also ordered a cold air intake setup I found on ebay using spectre components w/4" tubing and filter and the plenum for holley carbs
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300946803001?ss ... 1439.l2649
going to be like Christmas this week

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

also ordered drilled/slotted/vented 85 trooper front rotors, semi loaded 85 trooper calipers, and some ceramic pads. 22x19 aluminum radiator, 16" 2700cfm Procomp electric fan, 200on-185off fan switch...

another week or two and the engine will be fully assembled
just have to pick up a trans and transfer case and I will be ready for the last stages

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

With all the "GO" parts you are putting on, the Trooper brake upgrade is probably a good idea too. "STOP" is pretty handy sometimes. You will still need the caliper brackets from an 86 or older Trooper, unless they come with the semi loaded calipers. I know at least one place I looked at ordering from had the brackets with the caliper. http://www.independent4x.com has upgraded braided steel brake lines that should fit those calipers too. Call them if you don't see it right away on their website. They have always been very helpful in figuring out what I needed on the phone.

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95 Isuzu Trooper Daily Driver
86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good

yeah I figured it might be nice to go from real fast to a stop more than once, might hurt less too the ones I ordered said including mounting hardware but when it gets here I will take a look and see if the brackets were in part of that.

I noticed independent4x has a lot of aftermarket goodies for Isuzu's, may end up doing some shopping there in the near future. the stock lines are supposed to bolt up to the trooper calipers but I will see when they show up.

intake showed up so I had to get a quick pic, heads will be on permanently in a couple days just waiting on valve stem seals to get here.

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride