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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2016 6:04 pm 
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Hey guys, I have a broken wheel stud I want to replace. I have the hub and rotor off the spindle. The bolts that go through the hub to the rotor are all off as well. Is there any other part I have to take off so the hub will come free from the rotor? Here's a picture of top and bottom.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2016 11:52 am 
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It's been awhile since I've taken mine apart, but that should be all you need to do. They may take some persuasion to separate, especially if it's been a few years. Try prying one side a little then rocking back and forth.

Chad

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2016 8:05 am 
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chaddmann wrote:
It's been awhile since I've taken mine apart, but that should be all you need to do. They may take some persuasion to separate, especially if it's been a few years. Try prying one side a little then rocking back and forth.

Chad



Thanks, I'll try that.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2016 10:28 pm 
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I ended up using a rubber mallet to hit the rotor. Making sure to pad the surface under the rotor before hand. Just tapped around the rotor and keep track of how it moved, then would tap on the side that moved less. The technique worked good.
Next I'm replacing the broken studs and then getting some new wheel bearings.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2016 10:25 pm 
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So I decided to replace the wheel bearings since I had it all apart. I used a punch and hammer to take the bearing cups out (there's 2 notches on each side you can put a punch in). Now that I got the new bearing cups, anyone got any tips to get thing to go in straight. I could use the hammer and punch, but thought there might be a better technique to get them back in.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2016 10:35 pm 
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They make a tapered driver for that, pretty cheap at harbor freight. Or you can get a round piece of wood (a straight piece of a hard wood limb will do) that you can trim into a rough taper and beat on that. REALLY don't like to use a punch, it will ding the edge if you aren't careful...

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2016 10:37 pm 
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I use the old bearing in the new race. Put a ball peen hammer in the bearing hole and hit the back of the hammer with another hammer. I know they say not to hit two hardened pieces together but it doesn't take much force to install the race. Been doing it that way for 30 years and haven't had a issue yet.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2016 8:46 pm 
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Thanks for the advice Mytmouz and Luvrv8. I might have a wooden wooden dowel that might be the right diameter. The bearing idea sounds good too. I'll make sure to clean the hub surface and make sure there's no burs before I put in the new bearing cup.


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