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 Post subject: 4x4 LUV v8 5 spd tranny
PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 11:01 pm 
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Im new to the site. Have used it a lot to get info but havent posted much. i have a 1980 4x4 LUV. 3" body lift, 4.56 gears from a trooper and 31" tires. it does great and i love this truck but would like some more power cause i play in the sand a lot and she struggles just a bit in that area. im thinking about putting a TBI 350 in it with a nv4500 5 speed and straight axle so i can get stronger axles and dont have to worry about trying to get the tranny and transfer case around the torsion bars and cross member. i pretty much have it all planned out but want to know hard it would be to get a bigger fuel tank under the bed and if the nv4500 will fit very good under the truck, and if the tranny shifter will be close to the factory spot so its not a pain to shift. any help would be appreciated!

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 1:53 am 
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Since you're changing the entire driveline sell your working 4x4 truck, use part of the funds to buy a 2wd with a good frame & acceptable body (doesn't even have to have engine/tranny/axle) & buy conversion parts with the rest. The 2wd has a lot less stuff to cut off & throw away when adding a straight axle, plus a 4x4 is worth more than a comparable 2wd, so it'll be easier & cheaper as well.
Your chosen tranny won't clear the tunnel without a body lift and probably modding the tunnel, you'll have to relocate the shifter holes anyway. You'll also need a hydraulic clutch setup to operate the internal slave. If you don't require the deep first gear a NV3500 is smaller & lighter. An auto would be easiest of all.
Toyota or Jeep/Scout axles are the only ones that are even close to your stock axle width, anything else will stick way out past the fenders. Most common Toyota ratio is 4.10 but anything that low is rare in others & is usually in 3/4 ton or heavier trucks.
It shouldn't be a huge problem to mount a '88-on 21 gallon Trooper aft axle tank & add a filler behind the passenger fender, but you'll have to relocate your spare tire. The Trooper tank has an internal 40psi pump rated for EFI, your stock tank doesn't. If you can figure out the fuel pressure delivery retain your stock tank also & use a selector switch.
Some general observations:
-locate the front axle forwards of the wheel opening center, the front of the fender is a lot easier to trim than the rear.
-passenger drop will give more steering clearance than drivers drop, SUA will give more steering clearance than SOA.
-your estimated budget & time frame for the conversion are probably low by half.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 9:15 pm 
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I was going to straight axle it first and then drive it for a while like that and then do the v8 conversion later on. that way atleast some of the work is done. i want to slowly make it what i want, rather than just tear it all down and rebuild everything. i put a Camaro on a Blazer frame and am currently rebuilding a Chevy I bought that had no running gear in it at all and i put a tbi 454 in it and just got it running so yes i know projects take a lot more time and money than expected lol. thats why i want to do certain things first so its not a huge overwhelming project. i just had some questions about it that were concerning me like the transmission and stuff. so thank you! thats a lot of info i didnt know. and the only reason i want to change tanks is because this one is tiny so id rather get a bigger one for the v8 so it doesnt run out super quick. time to start shopping!

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 11:18 pm 
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Then a Toyota front axle would probably be best, it's only 1-1/2" wider than your stock rear but one with 4.56 gears is rare, so plan on a gear swap. Then relocate the springs to the top of the rear axle to level the truck, flip the spring plates over & to the opposite side, then lower the bottom shock attachment so that the stock shocks are the correct length. A lot of lift will make the front driveshaft angle very steep since the stock 4sp/t-case is not very long. If you use stock Toyota springs you will have to extend the frame at the front enough to mount the front perch.
Just a thought- You could add a cam, headers & Weber carb to your stock engine & maybe boost power enough to put off the v8 swap or even the SAS a while longer.
Another fuel tank option- My truck has two stock 50L tanks, the second reverse mounted on the passenger side with the exhaust pipe turning up to above the drive shaft & between the tanks & the muffler moved behind the axle beside the spare. This method may not work for you if you need high fuel pressure for fuel injection & clearances are very tight.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 10:41 pm 
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damn haha i was trying to avoid the yota axle cause of prices for parts. I do like my IFS cause it rides good and ive always preferred that over the straight axle, especially for sand. Basically how this whole idea came was i bought a stand alone harness for my 77 crew cab to run the TBI motor but i just got an 87 interior and engine harness from a suburban for a smokin deal and its meant for the TBI and I dont wanna just sell or throw out the TBI stand alone harness i bought so i figured i could just use it for a TBI 350 and put it in my LUV and then started trying to figure out everything i would have to do to make it work lol. kind of a crazy idea just to not have to get rid of a $350.00 harness i guess ha. I heard you have to send out the cam and get it reground and this truck is my daily. would it be better to find a junk LUV and get the cam out and send that one in instead? I can order a header and already got a Weber, it just needs a little bit more power to do a lot of sand playing. it can make it up hills and does pretty good being so light but i have to get a good run at it and it looses RPM's pretty quick when she sees a hill haha. I just wanted be able to re use the harness i have but adding power to the 1.8 would work too and definitely be cool, everyone does a 350 swap anyway. Would you happen to know how much a getting as cam done would be? Thanks for all your help!

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 10:51 pm 
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and ive also heard that putting an electric fan on will help quite a bit too cause of drag so i was thinking about doing that.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2015 11:19 am 
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Shipping to Delta Cams is $15-20 each way depending on where you live, regrind fee is $65. They generally have two different grinds for Isuzu engines, 260 for torque boost below 3500rpms, 272 for above 3000. You can still find cams on ebay or rockauto.com for $80-100 but a salvage yard unit should be a lot cheaper ('76-'82 G180Z 1.8L & '83-'87 G200Z 1.9L use the same cam).
If you add a re-grind it's a good idea to use VW/Porsche elephant foot or ball foot adjusters, the stock adjusters are almost too short and contact the valve stem at a severe angle.
Other available mods:
-electronic distributor from a P'up or Trooper with the G200Z 1.9 engine eliminates the points, so no more burning or re-gapping.
-1.8 head on a 1.9 block raises compression about one full point, a hotter cam will reduce the tendency to ping.
-'80 on heads had a smaller intake valve than '79 back, the larger valve can be installed but may not be worth the trouble.
-5sp tranny/t-case from a '86-'87 gas P'up or Trooper has an overdrive highway gear provided your engine produces enough power to utilize it, requires relocated crossmember & shifter holes, modded driveshafts.
-Pacesetter header, the current version has oversize round ports so you can't port match the square head ports like you could with the old style.
-Lockers/LSDs: I have Aussie lockers in both my rears, it's possible but not cheap or easy; Turbo Impulse LSD carrier can be swapped in but must have a thrust block added, I haven't figured out how to do that yet.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 2:34 pm 
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oh wow. it sucks cause i had a trooper that i was took the gears and power steering from, really wish i woulda pulled the motor. it was the 1.9. or atleast the distributor lol. oh well. thanks for all your help man. I got a lot to figure out haha

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