LUVTruck.com

My 80 has contracted a case of cancer in the floor pans I was wondering if anyone makes replacement floor pans and body panels for LUV's?

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1945 Willys MB restored all original It was completed on 7/10/05.
1979 CJ-5 "Mean Green"TRAIL TESTED,WIFE APPROVED
1980 LUV 4x4 (In progress)Chevy 350,Turbo 350,Divorced Np205 T-case,2.5 ton rockwells, 46" Baja Claws

best bet is to find a new cab or cut some out of a parts vehicle and weld them in a tip for welding them in is to tact corners but after each tact weld have a bucket of water with a sponge and get it damp and cool it right away wont warp its a long process but if done turns out nice I have filled in marker lights and made a new rocker panel

After searching for replacement panels online for 2 hours thats kinda what I thought.Thanks for the help!

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1945 Willys MB restored all original It was completed on 7/10/05.
1979 CJ-5 "Mean Green"TRAIL TESTED,WIFE APPROVED
1980 LUV 4x4 (In progress)Chevy 350,Turbo 350,Divorced Np205 T-case,2.5 ton rockwells, 46" Baja Claws

If you are going to put carpet back in you can patch it with old street signs. You just cut and bend them to fit and rivet them to the floor.

Or clean them up, use a little rust preventive on them, and just fiberglass them. I put webbing and resin (two coats) on the underside and on the inside of mine and they are strong as the dickens. Just make sure you spray a litle primer and paint on both sides when you are done. It's a lot easier than welding new sheet metal in and they'll never rust or leak again.

Taz, that sounds like a good option on rusted floors. How clean do you need to get the rusted floor? As you can see in endless expenses' pic there is a lot of loose rust as well as not so loose rust. What method did you use to clean yours, sanding, brushing or blasting? Also what type of rust preventative did you use and what is the function (to remove or to cover/bond)

endless, don't mean to highjack your post, please excuse.

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1980 4x4 - Hunt'n truck 9yrs only seen pavement to the gas station. Gets a little spooked when it sees another vehicle.

By all means,the more information the better!Problem I see is there is not that much floor left!All the loose rust is gone now I posted the wrong pic.Me and the shopvac pretty much removed the whole floor pan!Looks like some custom fab work is in order

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1945 Willys MB restored all original It was completed on 7/10/05.
1979 CJ-5 "Mean Green"TRAIL TESTED,WIFE APPROVED
1980 LUV 4x4 (In progress)Chevy 350,Turbo 350,Divorced Np205 T-case,2.5 ton rockwells, 46" Baja Claws

Well mine wasn't as rusted out as the one in that pic, but basically I wire brushed my floor, took a brass wheel in a die-grinder to the edges around the holes, cleaned up the mess with my shop vac, used some rust preventive (sorry...I don't remember the name of it because I got it from a friend that just did some restoration work on an old car) all over the floor on both sides, cut up my webbing pieces to fit, then mixed up my fiberglass resin and catylist and covered both sides with two layers.

Next I primered both sides, and painted them, then I used a stretchable carpet inside on the floor of the entire cab that's made for outdoor use like in boats, etc. that I applied to the floor with a super strong spray adhesive that works kinda like contact cement in a can, and trimmed around the edges with a razor knife. On the underside, I used a paint brush to coat it with a little roll-on bed liner I had laying around from helping a friend coat the inside of his truck bed.

I have a wire-feed welder that I've used to patch floor pans before, but since I was out of wire at the time and I already had the other stuff laying around left over from fixing the fiberglass fenders on my stepside bed, I decided to fiberglass them instead. All things considered, it worked out real well and I was more than satisfied with the way it all turned out.