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 Post subject: what to do?
PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 6:01 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2005 12:02 pm
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Location: lufkin,TX
i have the 79' and with 31" 10.50 it is all over the road i dont know if it is me or what but i rebuilt the motor and did a spring over in the rear with new u bolts and all but it wont stay on the road over like 25 - 30ish.
what could be the problem and what would be a good candidate for a sas should i go straight to the rockwells or something smaller like 44's first.
thanks i searced and no answers.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 6:25 pm 
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Location: Greeley, Colorado
My '80 4x4 did the same thing after I put on 235's. I just had to adjust the free play in my steering box. Simply loosen the lock nut on the steering play adjuster, and turn the adjuster screw in until it bottoms out. Tighten the lock nut and you are finished.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 1:19 am 
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death wobble :lol:
:wink:

that being said.... check your ball joints. from personal experience, mine were bad on my s-10, so i thought what better of an excuse to tear out the IFS for a SFA 8) never looked back, never regretted it... but if it's not in the cards to do a SAS then fix up the joints and have it aligned. You guys shouldn't be having issues with such a small increase in tire size though... :? the above mentioned steering adjustment is only a bandaid fix, temperary fix to a permanent problem.... loose and wearing jionts and parts...

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 12:10 pm 
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Mine was real sloppy at first. I found all four tie rod ends to be shot. Fixed that, and the steering box was already bottomed out and still sloppy (in the box). It steers pretty good now but I need a new box to make it perfect.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 2:40 pm 
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I do agree with Boonie the about the ball joints. Mine happened to be fine, there was just too must steering gear free play. I would check the entire front end, but as I said before, a sloppy front end is often due to a steering box that hasn't been adjusted in 20 years. The steering boxes on the LUV, as well as many older vehicles, were meant to be adjusted from from time to time but are almost always neglected.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 5:04 pm 
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agreed, i was going off the fact my steering in my s-10 was fine. So if the steering is fine and not sloppy or was sloppy and now fixed, but you're still having the "death wobble" then it is TRE's or BJ's :wink: I just replaced my TRE's just before christmas as i was having steering issues on the road, it liked to wander back and forth some, found out the lower drag link joint was VERY sloppy due to 4 years of abuse :P i can't imagine WHY it was loose :lol: :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 9:45 pm 
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i didn't know that the box could be tightned but i'll look at it tomorrow.

what should i do for the axels later in life 'if the sterring works out quickly'
i would like to have rocks but thats because i'll be running military michelins any axel that will flew will work i'm not rock crawling just river and creek crossing, and ford crushing is there a preferred secondery transfer case?

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 11:16 pm 
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What size michelins? because they make a bunch of different sizes... So your plans for wheeling are crossing rivers and ford crushing? if that's all you're doing and not getting too wild you don't need rockwell axles for that. but you can break stuff just as easy in the mud as you can on the rocks, just depends on how heavy your foot is.

what do you mean by secondary t-case? are you talking to replace your existing case or doubling t-cases?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 8:11 pm 
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no just double up t cases like add a sami t case. and i want the ones that or about 5 - 5.5 ft tall buddy has them on his .5 ton step side chevy and 2.5 rockwells

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