i have been running dual alternators for i think its almost 2 months now if not just over a month(just over 1k miles) the stock 35amp is running the truck and the dodge 135amp will be running the amps and other assorted accessories... ill get some pics up here soon as to how i have the alternator and everything wired right now...
yes i am running dual alternators and dual battery banks... though the battery i am using for the amp right and secondary charging system is bloated and was when i put it in...
the box will be about 2 sheets of um still in the design phase of the box but with the lack of space behind the seats i hope i can get away with using 3/4" mdf my fingers are crossed i dont have to sacerfice and go with 1/2" mdf because i dont think itll stand up to the pounding.... (still waiting to hear back from a car audio forum and a local box builder here in spokane to see if i can get away with using 3/4" mdf and still provide the sub with enough airspace inside the box
the subs and hifonics amp are going to run right around $500... and i have about $400 in to the current setup...
batteries will be about $150 a pop and another $60-$100 in upgrading the wiring i just installed... from 4awg ot 1/0 as well i still need to deal with a few grounding issues with both batteries (there not issues but i just dont like how i currently have the grounds setup....)
with a 1000w amp you only pushing about 300-450 wrms if not less to those subwoofers jfyi
i cant believe i never got pictures of the dual alternators installed wheni finished getting everything buttoned down
any ways the second alternator is a 135a unit out of a 99 dodge ram 1500 (i think it was the 5.9l motor) these are externally regulated units much like the luvs stock alternator.. and these in factory setup are regulated by the trucks pcm... so i picked up a used 2 wire voltage regulator and the pig tail off a 1980 dodge 3500 panel van... (1989 and previous dodges had this unit) it doesnt matter which wire you run off of which pole on the alternator but the top wire of the vr has to be powered by a 12v switched source (i used a relay between the ignition switch and second battery)
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframe ... 09X-272802part # for reference
ACDELCO Part # C603Z
and rock auto doesnt have a listing for the pig tail...
(v-belt pully salvenged from the 78 ford as well)
to mount a v-belt pully on the dodge alternator i used an air grinder to round out the nose of the pully and beveled the nut to fit... then i ran in to a spacer issue with the pully not being spaced out far enough from the alternator body... which was quickly remedied with a fender washer that was step bored out to snugly fit the shaft and the out side diameter was filed down smoothly to ride the outter bearing race of the front shaft bearing (the pully normally rides on this taper which is why i have no worries that the washed being there... when all was said and done minus the upper alternator bracket and the wiring it looks factory
to mount the alternator i pulled off the smog pump bracket from the block and used a bench grinder to grind the "bushings flush with the rest of the bracket recessed the bushings in the alternator with a wooden mallet and the lower mount was taken care of the upper belt tensioner was made from the stock smog pump bracket and a scavanged alternator bracket off a 1978 ford truck (f150/f100 with a 302 v8)