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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 5:50 pm 
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Okay, I'll test it! how do i know which relay goes to the dropping resistor though? Also, can I run the system with 6.25 volts? or will that burn out the glow plugs? it doesn't seem that much higher then the 5v its supposed to have.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 5:54 pm 
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dieselluv123 wrote:
Okay, I'll test it! how do i know which relay goes to the dropping resistor though?

I think it's the the front relay on the passenger side, but you should be able to just follow the wires. The two glow relays are close together.

I'm about 350 miles from home (and from my P'up), so I can't take a pic. :(

Jack

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 6:24 pm 
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Okay gotcha! so something is definitely wrong with my system. I went out to test it again and where i was showing 6.25v before, now i got a mere 0.07v. I also tested the leads on the relay and I only ever show power from the line that goes directly to the battery. So in final exasperation I pressed the "aftermarket" button to see what would happen. my voltage immediately spiked to 12v at the glow plugs. Then i released the button and the voltage rested at 6.25 again. So i turned the key off, and turned it back on and it is once again i'm reading 6.25v at at glow plugs!?! could my resistor be bad? Im confused as to why it started working only after i pressed the "aftermarket" button.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 6:34 pm 
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Okay, So i just completely removed the "aftermarket" button and rewired things back to stock. The button was a mess! the wires were all corroded and messily taped together! So all the wires are now going into the controller in their stock positions with no unknown or extra wires going anywhere. I tested 6.25v at the glow plugs after everything was retuned to stock. can I run with 6.25v? or is this still too high for long term use? Also I am holding a steady 6.25v that doesn't disappear when the glow light goes off, is this normal? I really appreciate your help!!!


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 8:25 pm 
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I'm replying from a phone, so it's hard to provide a lot of details. But yes, you can start it on the lower (6.25v) circuit. Mine was that way for quite a while. The stock glow plugs are rated for continuous use at 5v, but the "Quick On System" ("QOS") gives them an initial 12v for a few seconds before switching to the secondary circuit which includes the dropping resistor. If the 12v circuit isn't working, you need a longer glow cycle (depending on the engine temperature). Does your clutch safety switch work? If so, I'll explain how to force a longer glow cycle.

Jack

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 8:45 pm 
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Okay great! is the clutch safety switch the safety measure that stops the engine from starting if the clutch is not pushed in?


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 8:54 pm 
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dieselluv123 wrote:
Okay great! is the clutch safety switch the safety measure that stops the engine from starting if the clutch is not pushed in?

Exactly.

Provided it's working:
  1. Make sure the transmission is in neutral.
  2. Turn the key to "START" and hold it there. As long as you hold it, your stepped-down glow circuit is activated. 30 seconds should work in freezing weather. When you think it's been long enough--
  3. Press the clutch, and the starter will engage, and you should start right up.

Jack

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 9:01 pm 
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Great trick!!! I will try this tomorrow. I have not installed the new glow plugs yet for fear I would burn them out. I will give this a try as soon as I get them installed. Will let you know how it goes. Thanks!!!


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 9:22 pm 
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Okay, so first neither my diesel LUV or diesel pu'p have a clutch safety switch, or at-least it doesn't work on either. Next, I bypassed the fuel cutoff for now, so i can start the truck. Finally, when I connect my glow plug wire the metal "strap" that connects all the glow plugs my voltage reads 0.00v. this does not seem right to me. In addition, the truck still will not start without starter fluid which leads me to believe the glow plugs are not coming on at all... when I disconnect the glow plug wire it reads 6.25v, but zeros out when i connect it to the plugs.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 7:24 am 
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I think I'd eventually want to fix those safety switches, but it can wait.

There's an electrical connector that tends to get flakey, and it causes the glow system to short-cycle. It's a rectangular connector with 5 (?) wires, on the passenger's side at the rear of the engine. This caused me issues for a couple of years before someone suggested I clean it. I'd clean both sides and apply some anti-corrosion stuff to it. If that doesn't fix your problem, it may be time to swap the plugs. Even one bad plug can cause the system to short-cycle.

Jack

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 8:55 pm 
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So i ran some tests on my Pup and it actually has the exact same readings as my LUV now. I get about 6.3v on the Pup and 6.25v on the LUV at the glow plug wire so thats great! Also when I connect the wire to the glow plugs it zeros on both trucks, so I think I am fine on that count!
However I still can't get the LUV to start without starter fluid. I installed brand new glow plugs, and the glow system all checks out, but it still just cranks and cranks. When I go to the Pup however, it fires right up, no hesitation. its about 70 degrees out, so its not like this is extreme weather. Any ideas? I can use starter fluid, but I REALLY don't want to use fluid every time i start the truck.

P.S. I already replaced that bracket. I installed brand new wire connectors with dielectric grease!


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 12:32 pm 
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We really need to know if the glow plugs are heating up, and for how long. If you turn on your headlights before cycling the glow plugs, you should see them dim slightly when you turn the key to "on" (for as long as the glow light is on). If you're seeing that, it's likely they're heating up. If not, they probably aren't.

Jack

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