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 Post subject: Diesel Head Gasket Job
PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 4:30 pm 
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I just installed a new 80 amp npr alternator (works GREAT), but i noticed that tiny bubbles are escaping from the bottom of the head, aka looks like a head job. The c223 looks extremely straight forward, but is there any head gasket replacement walk through on the site, or does anyone have advice on it? I plan on also adjusting the valves while things are open as well. I should just need the head gasket and valve cover gaskets correct?

- jordan


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 8:34 pm 
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That's a job that I haven't had to tackle, but I'm wondering where you found the alternator. And did it come with the vacuum pump on it?

Jack

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 12:57 pm 
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Well i made the poor choice of buying the 80 amp alternator for the 5.7 npr, instead of the 70 amp for the 3.9. The 5.7 alt is a fair amount larger than the 3.9 alt so i had to make brackets. basically the 3.9 alt you can put a bolt through the standard mounts on the engine and shim it with nuts and washers to where it needs to be set. the 5.7 alternator has almost the same size mounts as the mounts to the engine so i had to make brackets to connect the two. As well, the pulley on the 5.7 alt is 1/8th larger in i.d. than the Luv alt so either buy a cheap aftermarket pulley to match the vbelt or bore out the stock luv pulley (as i did). otherwise works great, other than i need a lockwasher on the alternator pulley nut, it keeps loosening. charge is good, and now its 80 amp. I just need to wire the alternator to the relay so my engine light will shut off.

i paid 115 shipped i believe
http://www.amazon.com/Alternator-Isuzu- ... B003679BVI


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 1:03 pm 
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and yes it came with the vacuum pump!! sorry i didnt answer that. i literally swapped the hardware from my Luv vac pump to the npr one and it all fit and bolted correctly. super easy. I also used the braided stainless oil hose mod, cost me 28 bucks and it works great with my swap, a hair tight, but ok (i blame this on my built alt brackets). Word of advice, most hose shops dont have 8mm banjo fittings and the cost a fortune to find, ship, and have pressed. so do yourself a favor and just get the 4an threaded kit. BE SURE AND USE THE ORIGINAL LUV VAC PUMP BANJO BOLTS! the bolts that come with banjo fitting are too short for my liking.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 2:41 pm 
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Location: Germantown, TN (right next to ElvisTown)
That's all great info for the diesel drivers. Thanks for posting.

Jack

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 5:48 pm 
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well I am a damn fool. I was tightening my alternator pulley nut back up with locktight and a lock washer using the ol' screwdriver in the alternator technique (sketchy), when i made the stupid choice of not disconnecting the battery. long story short, spark, now shorted alternator. Any ideas? i think i just made a 115 dollar mistake that i will never be repeating again.
- jordan


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 6:25 pm 
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Have an alternator shop replace the diode...

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 7:58 pm 
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Are you positive (heheh I guess that's a pun) you damaged the alternator? I'd check the fuses, and the two fusible links that come from the battery. I've made the same mistake myself, and just blew a fusible link or a fuse, if I recall correctly.

Jack

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 1:00 pm 
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HAHAHA I figured it out THANK GOD! turns out i REALLY am an idiot. Turns out the wire running to my 12volt ignition switch wasnt connected correctly so the internal regulator was allowing the alternator to charge. Now i get 14.4 volts at idle. and 13.99 with all accessories running! I really do loath wiring.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 1:01 pm 
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lesson learned. check connections, check connections, check connections again.


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