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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 10:46 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2013 4:00 pm
Posts: 29
Location: Corrales, New Mexcio
Ok, the rear axle has been rebuilt/overhauled with a 3.43 ring/pinion ratio...ready to be installed after I complete my taxes...oh the pain! Still have not figured out (need to spend more time studying) how to upload pics on this project.

While earlier test driving, I noticed that while the vehicle is cold the shifting from 1st to 2nd caused some grinding until the vehicle has warmed after driving a few miles. (Note that it had been sitting since '96 outside in sunny New Mexico weather.)

My "master mechanic mentor" when informed of this news suggested that it was just possible the previous owner, a Sandia Labs engineer "genius" now deceased, might have replaced the trans oil with a weight such as rear axle oil...90 weight for example, and that as heat built up the oil would thin out allowing an easy shifting without the grinding. I had planned on replacing this oil too.

Ran home to my factory manuals and in the Supplement edition I discovered that engine oil 5W-30SF is the recommended lubricant for my 5sp trans.

The question: Isn't this oil a non-detergent (SF meaning that) type? If so, does anyone have a particular brand preferred? If not non-detergent, then what choice of oil/brand has the best track record? Of course, if others have a different grade of oil etc. that works even better than factory recommendations, I'm all eyes on your thoughts.

Once this stuff--the axle, the exhaust muffler and tail pipe, etc are installed...then I'll go drain the trans fluid and replace it with your suggestions after which will come a new timing belt with spring tensioner and then that oil hose which I was previously told would be a very smart move to replace.

Test drive will happen, and if all goes well then the new Kenwood radio will be installed, along with the larger interior light I got out of a Suzuki (thanks again to you know who...Joe Izuzu). I've got the dash mat cover...and the new carpet that will go in after I figure out the heater core leakage (got a really nice spare from the junk yard waiting in case needed). The total exterior and interior repaint will occur after the test run to North Dakota in late May or early June...summer up there is from July 3rd thru...July 10th in a good year, so the heater is very, very important!

Looking forward to riding off into my sunset years getting great mileage and being able to pick up aluminum cans off the highway to supplement dwindling social security benefits...or should that be keeping an eye out for farmers' widows who still control the oil field leases on the old homestead up there in Bakken country (NW North Dakota)?

Again, thanks for your help and wise advice.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 12:14 pm 
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Location: N W Arkansas
Use any good quality motor oil- your choice of brand, detergent or not doesn't matter. Match the viscosity to the ambient temperature just as you would with the engine. I use 10w-40 multi-grade synthetics in mine, they very seldom experience extremely cold weather. If it's had gear lube in it you need to get it out ASAP, the thickness tends to starve certain bearings. I would run something cheap for a few hundred miles, then change to whatever permanent lube you select, I might even repeat to make sure I got all the thick stuff cleaned out. If you change the lube at 30,000 mile intervals as you should then the synthetics may be an unnecessary added expense, but they certainly won't hurt.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 1:34 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2013 4:00 pm
Posts: 29
Location: Corrales, New Mexcio
Hey, that sounds in the right direction, especially the part about running a new oil for a few hundred miles to work out any heavier oil or sludge buildup, then replace that oil with some good fresh oil.

Thanks, that's a plan worth putting into action: So the detergent vs. non detergent is not an issue, no foaming problem within the trans using detergent, right?


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