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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 1:58 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 15, 2010 12:58 pm
Posts: 12
Location: Mobridge SD
I just bought my first luv. Its a 1981 2wd diesel sport with 265k miles. It had been setting for 7 ot 8 years. Put in new fuel filter and battery and have it running. Just put 2new and 2 used but ok tires on it. The brake on the front passenger side is sticking or grabbing to the point the truck pulls hard to the right and every thing gets hot to the touch after only a couple miles of driving. How do I go about removing the brake assembly to inspect/repair the problem.
Any other suggestions welcome.
thanks
happy new luv owner

PS
I think we (my 17 year old son and I) are going to add seperate tank and convert to WVO--summer project.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:37 pm 
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Location: Whittier, (So). Cal.
Take off the wheel, and unbolt the caliper.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:51 pm 
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Location: Great Falls, MT
rondog wrote:
Take off the wheel, and unbolt the caliper.


Then crack open the bleed valve and find a place to use a small-medium pry bar or srew driver and loosen up the caliper. It's easy to check to see if it's frozen up. Once you take the wheel off see if you can turn the rotor by hand.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 7:52 am 
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Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2005 7:54 am
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Location: Germantown, TN (right next to ElvisTown)
Congrats on your truck! Since it's been sitting, you should probably change out the timing belt YESTERDAY. If it breaks, you will do some damage. Since this is the same as an Isuzu P'up, you can use the "how-to" HERE.

Jack

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 10:54 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 15, 2010 12:58 pm
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Location: Mobridge SD
thanks
I removed the caliper and the hub turns freely now. Brake pads look ok. I used a c-clamp to force the piston back in and reinstalled the caliper. Hub still turned freely until I applied the brakes. brakes work but seemed to stay stuck again. Do I need to replace the caliber or can I take apart the piston and clean and rebuild it. How do I get the piston out to inspect internal parts.
thanks again for the tips and advice. It is really nice to be able to get advice without going to and paying a mechanic to do the work.
I think I am going to luv this site as much as my luv.
also need a speedometer if anyone has one or knows where to locate on please let me know.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 2:58 pm 
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Location: Camarillo, CA
That usually means you need a new rubber brake line.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 6:49 pm 
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Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
You can possibly clean up the old piston, but unless the caliper is expensive, just replace it and bleed the brakes properly. This way you'll be done of it.
This coming from a guy that lives in the land of rust. I've fixed a few, and they last a while, but for all the work it takes to do it, I just relace them now.
Maybe your climate isn't so bad for rust as mine is.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 10:52 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 15, 2010 12:58 pm
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Location: Mobridge SD
Thanks
ordered new caliper for under $50.
Still need speedometer


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2010 10:56 am 
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Location: Germantown, TN (right next to ElvisTown)
luv909 wrote:
Still need speedometer

Those rarely go bad. Is the odometer working?

Jack

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2010 3:38 pm 
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Location: Mobridge SD
Speedometer was working but odometer was only rolling tenths wheel. Took it out. It was really dirty and sticky. removed number wheels and cleaned. I think I had it cleaned up and moving but I broke the plastic bracket that holds it in when I tried to put it back togather.

Put new brake caliper in today works great. Have timing belt ordered.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 7:14 am 
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Location: Germantown, TN (right next to ElvisTown)
luv909 wrote:
Speedometer was working but odometer was only rolling tenths wheel. Took it out. It was really dirty and sticky. removed number wheels and cleaned.

That's why I asked, because that's often the problem. But now you have another problem. If you don't find one here, check at IsuzuPup.com.

Jack

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