LUVTruck.com

hi all,
i have a 81 rodeo that i'm havin trouble with the brakes not working properly? my mate thinks it's a vacuum problem.
symptoms are that the peddle is soft and goes to the floor but still brakes but won't lockup, you can also pump it up in anticipation of braking but it just feels hard to brake with no better result?

you can also pump it up before starting the engine and once you start it will go sfot and to the floor.

and if you guy's think it's a vacuum thing then how do i find the leak or what?

can anyone help me thanks drew:)

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Sounds more like a bad master cylinder to me...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

is there anything i can do to check if it is can they be reconed or will i have to buy new?

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Are you having to add any brake fluid, if not, it most likely is the master. They should be available at your friendly auto parts store...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

no i don't have to add any and yep for only $230 but if that's it i have to.

and thanks heaps for your thoughts mytmouz:)

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Rebuild your master cylinder, the last rebuild kit i bought was $25 Aus.

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1980 4x4 KBD40 ISUZU/Chev Luv
Factory Fitted c190 Diesel Engine, ARB BullBar, Ramsey Winch, Custom Tilt Tray,

i'm doing a rebuild but i cant get the second piston out? have tryed compressed air?

the kit was $20 i was happy bout that i hope i works:)

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Masters are cheaper then you think.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/N ... SubCatId=3

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

umm i got it out it had a locking screw stupid, and a master is $260 that's the cheapest

i have done the rebuild and it's still doing it i'm gunna retry bleeding the lines but apart from that i don't know? The boar of the cylinder was good no marks. i hope this will help others with the same problem, when i have a win:)

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Did you fit each seal on the piston in the correct location & direction?, did you bleed the air at the master by loosening the flare nut a little and giving pedle few pumps?, does your booster hold vaccum & is your truck fitted with a rear load bias valve? these valves often fail.

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1980 4x4 KBD40 ISUZU/Chev Luv
Factory Fitted c190 Diesel Engine, ARB BullBar, Ramsey Winch, Custom Tilt Tray,

ok i have had the booster checked and it's fine, i really think that i haven't bled the line properly. to answer you OZ i think i did the rebuild correctly, i was very careful to remove and replace so it's if someone did it wrong before me, to bleed the m/cylinder do you loosen the drain screw is that what you are calling the flare nut well it's the only nut on it, i didn't do that. when i did the bleed it pushed the air though fine but when the fluid came into my tube each push of the pedal didn't seem to do much? even did a few pumps to get some pressure and release the bleed and it didn't rush i thought it would?

ok the rear load bias valve? there is a thing just behind the drivers seat under the car of course i'm thinking that's it but how do you know it's faulty and would it make the pedal soft if it was? there's not leak there or anything like that.

thanks for your time OZ:)

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The nut on the end of the steel brake lines that enter the master are called flare nuts. These nuts need to be loosened a little and the peddle pumped to bleed the air in the master. If you have rebuilt the master correctly you should have a good strong stream of fluid from the losened nuts at the master.

The rear load bias valve is located on the chasis behind drivers seat, your truck may or may not have one. I have dismantled a few rodeo,s and have noticed that the valve in most cases had been bypassed with a new piece of brake line, im guessing that these valves fail after a while.

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1980 4x4 KBD40 ISUZU/Chev Luv
Factory Fitted c190 Diesel Engine, ARB BullBar, Ramsey Winch, Custom Tilt Tray,

O ok yes the flare nuts i new that:) umm no i didn't do that so there's a pretty go chance there is air in the line still i think that the piston seals went like this
<=>spring><=>spring i think that's if that mean's anything to you:)

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Heres a little trick you can try to determin if your master is faulty.
Clamp all 3 rubber brake line, 1 at each front brake caliper & the one at the diff housing.
Now pump the brake it should be hard and not sink to the floor.

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1980 4x4 KBD40 ISUZU/Chev Luv
Factory Fitted c190 Diesel Engine, ARB BullBar, Ramsey Winch, Custom Tilt Tray,

wow your stating to scar me that's a good idea i'm guna try i now even though it 10.30:)

no good i thought i had 3 clamps but only got 2 i'll have to wait, just a thought i should bleed the cylinder first too.

anyway i'll let you know how i went with it tomorrow thanks again for your help:)

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When i was young hoon i always carried brake line clamps in my glove box, on quiet saturday nights i,d find a empty car park, clamp the rear brake line and the left hand front brake and peform smoke shows leaving perfect circle skid marks. The lsd diff in the rear and the 13b under the hood helped a lot also.

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1980 4x4 KBD40 ISUZU/Chev Luv
Factory Fitted c190 Diesel Engine, ARB BullBar, Ramsey Winch, Custom Tilt Tray,

i bled the m/cylinder and lines again and a better result but still too bad to be safe. I clamped off the 3 and the pedal was hard as a rock:) then let go the rear and it went to the floor so what do you think? i have just put new wheel cylinders in? do you know what it would do if the bies thing was faulty should i think along the lines of bypassing it? it has 2 bleed screws on it and nothing comes out of them?

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Pull the bleed nipples out of the valve an check they're not blocked, before going to the trouble of bypassing it.
Are your brake shoes adjusted correctly in the rear?
Did your Rodeo have brake problems when you purchased it?

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1980 4x4 KBD40 ISUZU/Chev Luv
Factory Fitted c190 Diesel Engine, ARB BullBar, Ramsey Winch, Custom Tilt Tray,

yep, when i did the rebuild on the m/cylinder i pushed all fluid out of the line and i removed the bies and blew it out with compressed air so it's not blocked nor are the screws.
I'll have a look at the adjustment tomorrow i know that one side is hard to get the drum on and off were the other side slides on nicely?.

has it always been bad? yes but i think that it was getting worse to the point of i should have a look at it and then i put 16" rims on and then it got really bad, i probably should have mentioned that, that i went from 14" to 16" rims but it's more than just that cause the pedal goes to the floor the 16" rims just emphasized the problem.

I'll look at adjustment but if that's no good, i didn't want to say it, but i might just have to take it to someone that knows what they are doing:(
i'v enjoyed trying but i really need to get it fixed and it's just not making sense to me.

you don't live in Bundy do ya OZ:)

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I don't live in Bundy but theres a few Minitruckers on the downundertruckin.com site that may help you out.

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1980 4x4 KBD40 ISUZU/Chev Luv
Factory Fitted c190 Diesel Engine, ARB BullBar, Ramsey Winch, Custom Tilt Tray,