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I got this faint, annoying ticking noise coming from the even bank of cylinders. I've readjusted the valves and it didn't change a thing. I wondered if it was because of the header design having the slip fit #8 pipe. There's no sign of exhaust stain at he joint.
Now im looking for the odd-ball reason. Can roller tip rocker arms make the ticking noise even with proper adjustment?

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

maybe the exhaust gasket is leaking or maybe the lifter isn't priming up all the way or the roller tip could be war out try using a oil adative like lucase or something. my 99 silveradoe started lifter tap about 7,000 miles on the odometer so i started using lucas with every oil chang and it went away and now i have 150,000 miles on the truck and it runs great

I recently pulled the motor to fix the flexplate. It has new gaskets at the heads and collectors. The motor has maybe 5000 miles on it and it's been an ongoing issue. I had readjusted the valves soon after the rebuild and i thought i still needed to get serious about it but bigger issues were at hand.
So today i got serious with it and it didn't change a thing. It has come to a point that using "house brand" rocker assys is the reason for the ticking. It's very faint, intermittant and it annoys me.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

A friend of mine had a problem similar to what you are talking about and he said it ended up being a flat cam. He isnt the sharpest tool in the shed but he said that after changing the cam and lifters the noise went away. He could have been right or just got lucky taking it apart and putting it back together no one will ever know.

That's a new cam and set of lifters in the motor. I think i'll go for a new set of rockers and pushrods first before i commit to a new cam/lifter set.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

I dont blame you I am in need of changing cams and dont want to do it.

I'd need to pull the motor to do that. There's no way i can remove the H balancer with the motor bolted to the frame.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

Im pretty sure I can pull my balancer with the motor in the truck its the dropping the oil pan to get the timing cover off Im having issues with. I got a new stall converter I want to put in so I will probably end up pulling the motor and tranny out that I just put in and do everything at once when I decide to take it on. Im thinking since the motor hasnt ran for more than about a 1/2 hour that pulling the exhuast wont be a problem so I might try to do it without pulling the motor and tranny all the way out.

dropping the pan is easy on a stock framed luv. the x-member unbolts and the pan comes right off. getting a balancer puller in between the balancer and the front x-member of the frame... thats another trick. it all depends on how far forward or back your motor is set in there.

I have the routine of pulling my motor out of the LUV down to 45 + or - minutes and thats not rushing anything. sometimes its a lot better idea to do that rather than trying to get wrenches in odd places and busting up your knuckles trying to R&R something while the motor is still in the truck.

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1978 LUV Truck 2WD
450 "Small Block" Chevy
3.70 Ford 9
28x10 Goodyears