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I Picked up a 98 Vortec 350, cost a $100. Had a rattle, owner had new lifters installed, still did it, so he bought a long block. I didn't get any accessories, but I did get the valve covers, turtle, etc. Pulled the pan, needs a crank and a couple of rods. I already have a TBI setup with dist., computer, harness, rtc., gonna put it on the Vortec, and drop it in my Nissan Hardbody truck. I need to get it running so i can haul my lawn mower around...

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SFPP!

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

_________________
If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

Bet that's fun when you hit the brakes...

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Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower...and that's kind of the same thing...

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Looks clean enough. When does it go in?

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In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

That is a good question. I have the complete engine that I am going to use the serpentine set up and manifilds/exhaust in this truck on the above mentioned Vortec. I plan on pulling it out of the vehicle it is currently in Memrial Day and using it for mock up while I am waiting on a situation beyond my control to resolve itself, so I can put the Vortec together...

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Test fit.... Sounded better than it actually is, lol... Exhaust manifolds are not going to work, but I got a plan for that, and the dist. is hitting the fire wall where the wiring harness plugs up, got to figure out that one, is the biggest thing, and not sure if the truck pan is going to work, but if the dist. works out, it just might...

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Can you just put the dist. (adv./retard) where you need it and move the plug wires on the cap to get back in proper timing?

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?

I am not sure on these fuel injected engines, if it was carbed, then yeah... My plan is to find out that exact thing though, as that would be the easiest thing to do, so of course it won't work...

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Yea, I know how that is. lol If it weren't for bad luck....

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?

I don't think the dist rotation maters as long as the wires are where they were to start

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

Some late model vortec engines have a second sensor (like a cam angle sensor) if its a tooth off and you swing the dist it throws codes and the timing gets real jumpy.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

I am going to be using the tbi stuff on the mock up motor in the pic on the Vortec. Never fooled with the fuel injected stuff much, so I am not sure if I can install the dist. 180 out and wire it from there like the old school stuff I usually fool with...

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OK, update time. The mockup engine is in place, sitting on the mounts and transmission crossmember. I will gusset/ top bead all joints when I pull the mockup engine out.



I ended up using a set of 80's manifolds, plenty of clearance for these. I also had the option of using a set of shorty block hugger headers, but since this is a daily driver, I went with the manifolds, less gasket maintenance, I hope...



And I dropped the radiator in to see how much room I have, should be enough. I don't want to move the radiator into the core support, because I want to keep the ac condensor. As I plan on hooking the AC up, I will have to run a couple of pusher electric fans. I do this on my blazer, and it doesn't run hot, so I will go that route, although I know it isn't the best set up...



And here is a pic of the transmission crossmember I fabbed this morning...

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This has (sorta) been on the back burner to to time constraints, but I have done a few things. Tore down the Vortec, and the rear main was lunched, so block was junk. Actually worked out better because I found a shortblock cheaper than a set of rods was going to cost for the first one. It is now cleaned/deburred. Cam bearings and freeze plugs went into tonight, and plan is to start checking bearing clearances and (hopefully) assemble shortly. Heads on original long block were fine, just had to surface them to true the deck. Assembled them tonight as well.

My original plan was to mod a tbi intake to fit the vortec heads (I have done this before) but my crew chief is pretty sick, and can not work, so I have no access to the tig and milling machine at his employer. It is not cost effective to do the mods if you pay some one, so I been on the hunt. On CL I got what must be the first Vortec Performer RPM made, judging by how filthy it was, lol... I got a 4 barrel to tbi adapter off feebay. $80 bucks total and a lot of elbow grease, but it's presentable now. Currently, I am tapping holes for all the OEM stuff such as coolant sensors, emissions piping, then gonna fab an EGR adapter to fit.

Only problem now is, with the 4 barrel, I so want to drop it in, put a Holley on it, and drive it, but the TBI is going to be tried first, lol...

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Nice . Keep us posted

The computer ate my first reply so here it is again, What tranny are you putting behind it? Looks like you are making real progress!

_________________
In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

I have a 700r4 with some upgrades such as an aftermarket sunshell, red lion clutches/steels, and a transgo shift kit that is supposed to hold it in whatever gear you select, rather than shift anyways like stock. I also picked up the driveshaft today. The local driveshaft place has some pretty sharp counter guys. The one I deal with got the measurements from the stock nissan driveshaft and (it has a flange mount) and pulled a spicer off the shelf that takes a 3310 joint. I supplied a front yoke, and a shaft out of the suburban I parted, and they supplied the 2 new joints and a new slip joint for the front yoke. Total to me was $155.00 including the parts they supplied, after shortening and balancing the shaft...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!