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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 12:47 pm 
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Location: missouri
just what it says tell what you think about using nos

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 6:44 pm 
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Throttle in a bottle....cheapest HP you will ever make....

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 7:31 pm 
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I find that once I work out the weak links, I up the jets and find more weak links...

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 7:48 pm 
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I call it "a message in a bottle ".

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 8:22 pm 
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Anything less than 150 shot and you will fine on most applications....you cant add 150 hp to a worn out 200 hp motor.

Tight motor and you can safely go half the hp the motor makes. Some do rule of thumb is 1 hp per cubic inch...

All this does depend on when you want to hit it. Leaving off idle on a 200 shot loads the piss out of the motor (which is why it is effective)..200 shot on a motor (NA 300-400hp) in its power band doesnt put near the load on the internals.(the vehicle is already moving) Which is why the progressive timers are so popular. Its simple math and how long it will live. I did a system on a stock bottom end 351 (heads and cam)...Progressive system that runs in the 8s on the bottle..
Its also why they are in the 7s on a 10.5. Its tune,heat,and timing..

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 8:29 pm 
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The only reason to have a motor is to hold the nitrous kit .


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 9:15 pm 
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hotrod80 wrote:
The only reason to have a motor is to hold the nitrous kit .

Winner!

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 7:41 am 
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Induction solutions , I am a "thumb it " guy . The guy next to me will be in the first bulb and im still thumbin it :lol: . It like bringing your own good air .


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 8:20 pm 
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so a 150 shot on a good bottom end would be ok , so launch the truck then just hit the button and hold on or do you let of when it shifts or is it just tear stuff up untill you figure it out :?: 76 luv alluminum headed 383,10 inch slick 456 gear i wanna run low 12s atleast never ran it on a track

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 8:52 pm 
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With an automatic, I just hold on...

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 9:29 pm 
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fastluv wrote:
so a 150 shot on a good bottom end would be ok , so launch the truck then just hit the button and hold on or do you let of when it shifts or is it just tear stuff up untill you figure it out :?: 76 luv alluminum headed 383,10 inch slick 456 gear i wanna run low 12s atleast never ran it on a track


This truck should runn 11.75's on 150 it should run around 10.70's . Mine ran 10.60's with a 355 and 4.10's on a 26 x 8.5 . I like the spray on a wot switch mounted on the carb . More consistant and IMO safer . Make sure your fuel pressure i correct and that your bottle pressure is good and pull the timing via ignition box or manually . Tune up is key ecspecially if we are talking about pump gas .


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 10:46 pm 
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blow a head and you get ready nice blue flames and a big bang lol.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 10:49 pm 
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First don't waste time or motors on dry systems! Second, SPEND THE MONEY FOR A PROGRESSIVE CONTROLLER! Third go with port injection a nozzle in each runner. Fourth run good fuel. Fifth, index the plugs. Sixth use GOOD SYNTHETIC OIL. A finally,'',,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
GET IN SIT DOWN SHUT UP AND HOLD ON!
The systems that are out now are years ahead of the old " Motor Exploder" kits from the '80's.
We ran a 100hp system on my Wife's 157hp Busa, so 250+hp total! With the digital Progressive timer it came on at 25hp when at WOT, and went to 100% in about 1.5 seconds. 20+ gut wrenching 200mph+ passes and the thing is still a daily driver. The single most important thing to remember about the dope is
" Some is good, more is better! And BANG, guess that was too much :econfused

There is good support available call the guys and ask questions. need more confirmation? See my signature line, it's not bragging, it's a fact! Mmmmmm Nitrous is yummy!

SRAD

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 1:41 am 
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If in fact the OP is only looking for 150 HP port injection is not really needed, a plate system would work fine.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 9:24 am 
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I had good luck with the NOS Cheater series plate kit . The tune ups are on the safe side and if the instructions are followed it will allow you to become "familiar" with nitrous without hurting parts . A 100-150 shot will work on a strong bottom end for a long time . I had 360 something passes on the 355 and probably 80 of those were nitrous passes . I ran 82F/82N and edged up on bottle pressure during the last passes and when i tore it down the bearings looked great and were reused . The bores you could barely see the cross hatch so i ball honed them and new rings . Still running today .

The edelbrock kit is also a good one . I dont know the name of the small 4 bbl kit , but it works and can be flowed later and with good solinoids will go 400 hp . So there is room to improve .


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 10:09 am 
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so whats the difference between wet and dry kits

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 1:09 pm 
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Ok so some basics;
For any given motor configuration there is only x amount of available hp at a perfect tune. Now this occurs with the perfect air fuel mixture and complete cylinder filling and correct timing, good evacuation.
The simplest way to gain more hp is to put more air and fuel into the cylinder. More lift, more duration(increased cylinder filling), push it in(blower, turbo, ram air) or cool intake charge(intercooler nitrous). Nitrous work in several ways. First by super cooling the intake charge, ie super dense air fuel mix means more density. Secondly once compressed and ignited nitrous gives up more oxygen for combustion, and herein lies the problem. Nitrous can lean out a motor almost instantly and this was the problem in the early systems, carbs had to be way rich to compensate for the added oxygen or the motors souls lean out and grenade.
In a modern dry system nitrous is added in a small enough amount that the carb can be adjusted to deal with it or located in a manner where the MAF/MAP sensor will read the chilled intake charge and add fuel. Usually sprayed into an air box(bikes) air intake(FI motors) or under a carb. In either it's a risky proposition.
A wet system on the other hand adds BOTH fuel and Nitrous in a predetermined amount to keep the AFR near stoichiometric(perfect AFR). Jets in both sides are adjusted to add hp but maintain the correct ratio.

On further note, dumping a huge dose of dope on a motor all at once breaks stuff. All kinds of stuff!
Use of a controller allows the Nitrous to come on at a smaller hp boost and build at a predetermined rate to a max hp giving parts a break as opposed to just BANG! All at once.
There really is no secret black art to Nitrous just a steep learning curve.
SRAD

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