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I have a 87 Pup with a 1.9L, 5 speed with about 96,XXX miles on it. It starts right up, doesnt leak any oil nor does it burn any oil. I can't go past 50-55 mph and that is flooring it. What I have done to it to try and make it a little faster is:
1. replaced the clutch (was slipping)
2. removed the smog
3. removed cat and went with straight pipe (no muffler)
4. Installed a Weber 32/36
5. New spark plugs, wires, and performance coil
6. Timing is at 6 Deg. and checked vacuum advance (from what i have read, if I unplug the vac hose and suck on it, rotor moves, it means that it is still good). Vaccum advance is attached to carb.

I have done all of these things and when taking off it is SO slow!!!!
I may go 55 mph TOPS and that is me flooring it.
Am I missing something? Any ideas?

Any help would be greatly appreciated it.

Thanks, Marcos

Is the vac. adv. hooked up to the ported vac and did you check the timing with the vac. adv. disconnected ?

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

I did check the timing with the vaccum adv. disconnected and it is connected to the vacuum advance port. I also checked the EGR valve by turning on the engine, pushing the diaphragm in and letting the engine die (from what I have read, that means the EGR valve is working).

I am clueless as to what it is and is really bugging me.

Marcos

Bump,
Any Ideas of what i may be missing?

Marcos

Start with the basics,

1. Are you getting full throttle when the pedal is at the floor? Cable/linkage adjustment

2. Will the RPMs rev up to an uncomfortable level when sitting still? Just for GP

3. Have you changed the fuel filter? fuel pressure/or lack of

4. Have you tried a V8? (sorry, it solves power problems quickly)

Wild A$$ guesses but thats where I would start

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Three Amigos

When you suck on the vac advance hose, put your tongue over the end of the hose and see if it holds vac or leaks off. It should hold.

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?

Luvtrkr and rondog, yes I went ahead and checked those aswell and thanks for they replies guys, well I went ahead and checked the compression (should have done that way before but live and learn i guess)

The compression that I got was
dry test 100 (1), 110 (2), 100 (3), 90 (4)
Wet test 120 (1), 115 (2), 125 (3), 105 (4)

and looking at the Haynes Repair Manual, minimum compression pressure is at 128 and standard is at 170.

So does this mean that I may need a overhaul?

Marcos

Low compression can be caused by a few different things;

Worn/Broken piston rings
Bent valves
Broken valve seats
Blown head gasket

If your compression is around 100, it's probably your piston rings, bent valves, broken seats or blown head gasket you wouldn't get any compression or very little.

To answer you question, yes. You can do a re-ring kit at the bare minimum. But, I have worked in a machine shop, and have seen a lot of ppl who only do the top end just to have the bottom end go out shortly after, and vice vers.

Thanks for the reply Homegrown76Luv
I didn't notice any oil in my coolant and it doesn't seem to use any oil, does this mean that the rings can still be bad?

Yes, the dry/wet compression test confirms your rings are bad.

Thanks homegrown, now one quick question before the confirmation that my rings are bad sets in , do I need to check for the valve lash or should that even matter at this point? If so, what would be the procedure to check or adjust the valves.

Marcos

You can check you valve lash/clearance if you like. It doesn't hurt. As to how you check it, there should be instructions in your Haynes manual. If you don't have one, take your valve cover off, and tap the starter till your rocker arms are off of the cam lobes. Use a feeler gauge to measure the clearance between the rocker arm and cam lobe. I'm not sure on the spec's for the clearance, I don't have my manual in front of me.