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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 9:43 pm 
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I'm trying to put together a 2.0 litre air-cooled vw...
So, is it better to get most of the displacement from a larger crank, or larger pistons?
How much can the case be modified before it becomes too weak to function under stress?
-ret

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 10:58 pm 
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By saying a 2.0 do you mean a type I or type II late model engine? If you are talking about a type I there are not too many options. I had a 2331 cc engine in my Giha with a aftermarket case and a 1914 in a Baja Bug with a stock case. The 2331 lasted a long time but I worked at a VW repair shop and had a ton of help from those in the know. I would start by looking at CB perfprmance (Clauds Buggies) they are the best for aftermarket VW parts.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 9:01 pm 
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Only doing one of the two is half of it. It usually is a combination of both...
It should also be considered what are your needs for the engine-car.
I am a TypeIII guy, but I have owned bugs and ghias too.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 12:30 am 
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Alright...
I'm thinking 90.5mm bore and 82mm stroke.

What was the difference between your aftermarket and stock cases?

If I do what I'm planning, I'll use the Porsche 5.354" Conn. rods

I'm not too sure on how I'll cam it, but I want it to make more midrange power. I'm not a fan of high-revving engines... too many things go wrong... I was told that longer stroke engines needed longer duration cams.

I think I have a type II... I'm new to the whole VW side of things, so I'm not sure what the difference is... if the type II engines had a vertical oilcooler, dual port heads, and came stock 1600, that's what I have.

I also already have dual carbs, and reinforced rocker arm assemblies. I'm planning on keeping the heads pretty much stock otherwise.

The bug I'm building it for is a baja... I was told when I got it that the gears have been brought down a bit to accommodate the larger tires...

Yeah, I'm also building a bone-stock engine right alongside this one...

Thanks for the help, I definitely need it.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 7:40 pm 
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The after market case is stronger and will be case saved all ready. With 90.5's you will have to cut your heads, you should at least step up to a set of 041 Heads. The shop I worked at did all of the pre runners for John Swift (he has won the Baja 1000 overall several times for Ford) and he swears by a single carb for off roading, he should know. Like I said get a C.B.performance book. Don't let people talk you into "Porsche" parts, it's a joke, all theses people want is to say they have Porsche parts in their engines. CB does all of the machine work you will need and they are one of the best. They will help you choose a cam as well. CB performance is located in Farmersville Ca, look them up.

http://www.cbperformance.com/

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 1:51 am 
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Thanks for the lead to CBperformance... Their engine calc is about the most useful thing I've ever seen on the web... The only problem I have is that their site is pretty confusing... Yeah... farmersville is a bit of a ways from Sonora to just take a drive down there... lol, I don't think a 300 mile round trip just to look is justifiable... but, there aren't many vw shops up here...
This is gonna sound stupid, but how do I get one of their books?
lol, I also like that their dyno charts put a 2110 engine in the 120hp bracket @4500rpms... of course, I know my engine won't do that... the carb setup they described runs about $800, easy...
I've also been poking around chirco.com...

Hmm... I know that Porsche and VW are one in the same (lmfao, I think the only real difference is the shape of the doghouse...), but the 5.354" conn. rods are what I need for my stroke geometry... any way I can specify rod length? Hmm... I'll havta see what 5.400" does...

My final engine displacement should be around 2110cc +/- 5cc for combustion chamber size...
I'm slightly hesitant to spend $600-$800 on new heads when I already have 5 sets at home... but I'll havta remember that for future reference...

This doesn't make much sense, but I'm gonna use my baja for mostly highway driving... I can understand how a single carb would be better for offroad... but because this engine should see many more highway miles than wheelin' miles, I'm gonna go with dual carbs...

Any recommendations on the rotating assembly? (Pistons, crank, conn.rods... Forged, cast, I-beam, H-beam... stuff like that)

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 2:55 am 
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Have you been to Thesamba.com? its a huge vw forum.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 10:01 am 
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I have been using CB for 18 plus years and have never been there, thats why we have UPS. All you have to do is call them for there parts book.

As far as a VW engine and Porsche engine being the same with a different dog house is way far from the truth, someone has filled your head with crap, get away from them.

I have never in 18 years or so seen a motor combo that BB did not list. If you go with those odd size rods what pistons will you use, I canr see your logic how this will work. You can build any size engine you want, add duel carbs and when you use those stock restrictive heads it will feel as you have added a governor to the engine.

Anyway, best of luck on your build.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 12:50 pm 
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I used to have a '60 Bus. I built from the bench up, a 1776. I put in an Engle 110 cam, and dual Cadron carbs.
That eng. was bullet proof. It took a hell of a beating and was trouble free. Someone told me the Cadrons were better because they didn't have to be re tuned and messed with all the time. They were right! I installed them and that was it!

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 3:12 pm 
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The VW-Porsche thing is a misnomer(I think that is the word) The VW engine is a Porsche design as F. Porsche was one of the original VW designers. The VW type II engine is basically the Porsche 9i4 engine, that is a newer Porsche VW combined project. A lot of the 914 Porsche engine parts have VW part numbers on them. The Porsche 914 was sold in Europe as a VW. The only Porsche Parts on the 914 are the 2.0l 3 bolt exhaust ports. The VW bus engines use a 2 bolt head. The 3 bolt heads had a reputation of dropping exhaust seats....

HP Power go with the VW 1600 style engine... Use the type II engine for the other end... We always said the BBC would cost more to build but it should last longes... I know that is a over simplistic look at.
Think of it as a small block Chevy vs a big block Chevy..

CB is good stuff. I do mail order. Berg has some good stuff, but tends to be more expensive. Berg has his own way of building stuff. You would need to read his thoughts to understand how he looked at stuff.

My squareback has a Porsche 1.8l 914 engine in it. I have a 2.0l 3 bolt 914 engine on the stand waiting till I can afford to have my heads rebuilt for them.

Combos are the safe way to go. You can do a lot to your stock case and heads, but it takes time and patience to build it...

Watch out about the samba, a lot of opinions... Too much drama.

I think http://www.shoptalkforums.com/ is a better place.

Here is your Kardon Man A.J Sims

http://www.lowbugget.com/main_page.html

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 1:07 am 
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Dan-
No, I haven't been to Thesamba.com, I'll havta take a look at it...

Luvrv8-
I'll havta get ahold of them... I just don't like putting something like a case in the mail...
lol, alright... I've looked at both engines, and they looked pretty close to me... but I'll go with what you say on the differences... I'm not a vw expert... It's just that Mr. Porsche was the engineer that designed the beetle... and the brains behind the aircooled stuff...
I'm a bit confused on "BB"... ?
I'm beginning to wonder if I can use the stock conn. rods... it would be nice seeing as how I already have a few sets...
What's the difference between the 041 heads and stock? Is there anything I can do to the stock heads to raise the airflow?
Thanks for all the help... much appreciated...

Rondog-
Alright... yup, these vw's are pretty hard to kill... I'll have to see if I can find some cadrons on the cheap...

PapaG-
Thanks for the clarification on the VW-Porsche relationship...
Berg? I'm a bit lost on who that is...
Thanks for the links, I'll spend some time poking around those sites...
I definitely have a lot of time, and patience is my thing... I do everything as perfectly as I can when it comes to engines...
Thanks for the warning about thesamba.com... I'll take everything there with a grain of salt...

-ret

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 12:19 pm 
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http://www.geneberg.com/

Gene Berg was one of the early performance VW people.

http://www.geneberg.com/techtips.php

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 5:55 pm 
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ret1614 wrote:




I'm a bit confused on "BB"... ?


-ret

My bad, it's a typo, I ment CB as in CB performance. As far a mailing parts, I have ordered (the shop I worked for) and they are still ordering parts from them for 20 plus years with no problems. Think about it, if you walked into xyz auto parts and they were geting the case or crank, they would order it and it would be sent via UPS to them, so what is the difference?

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 7:59 pm 
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I am sure most of the VW performance places do at least 80% mail order. Bigger stuff, UPS or FEDeX.... :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 12:32 am 
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lol, like I said, I don't know much of anything about the world of VW...

Thanks for the link... that tech page has some pretty good info on it... I'll havta print it up and put it out in the shop for some reading material...

I'm not so much worried about them mailing stuff to me, it's me mailing stuff to them... that and I can drive 5 minutes down the road and have all o' my machine work done... Yeah, I'm getting most if not all of my parts through the mail... including my crank... lol, if I got jumpy about sending stuff through the mail, I definitely wouldn't send something as precise as a crank...

Hey, yet another small question...
8mm or 10mm head studs? Chromoly or regular?

Thanks for all the help
-ret

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 10:27 am 
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First of all, don't let "any machine" shop do your work, make damn sure it's a shop that does lots of VW work. The size of the studs are not all that critical, just make sure it's case saved.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 1:35 pm 
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Luvrv8 wrote:
First of all, don't let "any machine" shop do your work, make damn sure it's a shop that does lots of VW work. The size of the studs are not all that critical, just make sure it's case saved.


Truer words have not been spoken.
Most of the machine work on aircooled engines takes special fixtures.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 12:33 am 
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Thanks... you probably just saved me a whole world of grief...

You recommend that I send my case to cb performance?

A case will have to be clearanced for an 82mm crank, correct?

hmm... case savers look one heckuva lot like heliocoils...
-ret

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 11:29 am 
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It's much more then that, you have a ton of reading to do.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 10:49 pm 
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Do you know a site that has the reading for me to do? Everywhere I've been has tried to sell me something via their tech articles...
I liked geneberg.com, but all they could recommend was to load the engine up with their parts...
-ret

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