LUVTruck.com

I was just thinking along the lines that we share some our knowledge and tricks on how to make or free up some power. Im getting ready to build a new motor and and could use all the budget build up advice you could throw my way.Im sure there are plenty of other people reading this getting ready to do the same.

Ive heard of painting the bottom of the intake manifold in a ceramic white... to help reflect heat away from the incomming air...

Dont know that it actually works tho

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I saw something about that on horsepower tv not too long ago. paint the under side ceramic white and the top black. The say there isnt any scientific evedence to support this but it is suppose work.

Read this book.

http://www.amazon.com/How-Build-Horsepo ... 908&sr=8-2

I would say if you are looking for decent reliable hp go with parts that are matched to each other. Like the edelbrock performer RPM package. You can get the heads, cam, intake and carb matched specificly for each other. Not mention there is no telling how much edelbrock spent on the R&D to make the product right. Also there will be no guessing at the numbers the engine can make.

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Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower...and that's kind of the same thing...

I bought a 396BBC once that had the lifter valley painted with Rustoleum, the trick of the day back then. It had been built for a couple of years but not ran due to the car being restored. When it was first fired, the oil pressure would fluctuate. I got the engine CHEAP, and took it apart. The paint flaked off and was stopping up the pickup screen. Just my .02.

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

Good point on the paint but what about ceramic coating but that is probably not very economicial maybe powder coat?

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Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower...and that's kind of the same thing...

I had wondered about that too....what happens if it comes off or something...

I guess it depends on what motor is going in.... if its a 4 cyl then there will be obvious differences.... I dont think edelbrock makes an rpm package for the 1.8's.....lol

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Isnt the ceramic paint they used on the Horsepower TV show the Duplicolor engine paint that most people use on the outside of the out side of your motor? I dont think I would go the steps of painting the insides of my motor like mentioned above what happens when it comes off. sounds like more problems for down the road. not to mention the prep work it would take to paint something that is always submerged in oil. I would say that one of the most important steps to freeing up horse power would be to lighten up as much of the rotating mass as possible. A few years back when I was racing Outlaw karts I learned about rotating mass and saw a math formula that shows just how much rotating mass increases the further away from the center you are. I cant really explain it the way I see it in my head but I can say I was very surprised.

I painted the inside of a 390 Ford engine that i raced then sold and it was still like new 10 years later when the motor was freshened up,but the trick is in the preparation.

I had a clean block and then cleaned it with Lacquer thinner then with enamel reducer

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

We in sprint cars never paint the valley. I think the small gain is not worth the risk involved. You can also rin 1.6 rockers instead of the normal 1.5's.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

I agree with the 1.6 rockers . Also roller rocker and lifter decrease friction . Look at the basics , make sure your gasket don't restrict intake and exhaust ports or are smaller . also check to make sure they are lined up properly . Check for free play in distributor bushings . Make sure there are no tight spots in the crank when you turn it . Check you ring gaps before you install the rings . Degree the cam . Make sure the gas peddle opens the carb all the way . In crease the fuel line if it is still stock . Make sure you have good clean voltage to the distributor . Run a standard oil pump vs. a high volume , also thinner oil can help fight drag . Set the quench in the cylinder . Deburr piston to help agaist detonation . Index the plugs to help flame travel .

Trap door in the oil pan . Windage tray to keep oil from slowing crank on acceleration . Crank scraper to decrease foam and whipping of oil .

[quote="75 V8LUV"]I would say that one of the most important steps to freeing up horse power would be to lighten up as much of the rotating mass as possible.

They make a lightened wrist pin that's cheap to buy .

Im glad to read this stuff so far its all been pretty good stuff. I noticed on the last cam I bought the paperwork said do not use 1.6 rocker arms. I know its common to do so but why do they advise against doing so in some cases. What kind of baseline gains would one expect from using a 1.6 rocker?

lifter valley baffle, rear main baffle, underdrive pulleys... right cam for the heads and rpm to be used... lightweight and STRONG rotating assembly. i've seen the painted lifter valley, if it's done right it shouldn't flake. quench and rod length are two things often over looked. spark plug gap. right timing curve.. advance recurve kit.. *HEI dizzy's* can i think of anything else at the moment. no, as it's 2:30 am

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front tires are overrated.

there's a formula that will tell you how much lift you will gain from a 1.6 ratio rocker. it's pretty simple.. i don't remember it off hand... anyways the 1.6 rockers are there to make a cam act bigger without the bigger cam and give the valvetrain a little more leverage on the valve.

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front tires are overrated.

run fule through an ice can,lower the car/truck.

I have a ice can allready mounted up and ready to go oddly enough

oh and the truck is lowered to the max as far as being border lined with header to ground clearance