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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 9:27 pm 
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ok i have an isuzu G180 runs great! but there is a water leak in the back of the engine. its the head gasket. so now i cannot get my head bolts out! they are taking 150 ft lb on my 1/2in torque wrench any ideas? ive thought about letting the engine run till it gets to running temp


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 9:36 pm 
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just put a pipe on it and let er eat :wink:


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2008 8:20 am 
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sounds like a plan. now if the head bolt breaks is there a place to get new ones? or is it possible to find studs?


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2008 11:20 am 
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well you'd have to drill them out, just to get the rest of the bolt out :( but i have a set of head bolts off of my engine i just threw into the scrap yard you can have with the price of shipping


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2008 12:23 pm 
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ok ill let u know what happens. i will try to get it off today i think.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2008 5:19 pm 
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OK...am I the only one who says that using a TQ wrench not only backwards, but to remove head bolts is a bad bad bad thing.

Bad you...bad bad bad....tisk tisk.... naughty naughty

Ok... Im done ranting....

a cheater pipe and a breaker bar. I wouldnt use a cheater pipe on a rachet that does not carry a lifetime warrenty. Cuz it puts alot of stress in them little gears inside the rachet.

Best way is to use an impact gun, but I would guess you dont have one.

The only other thing that I try to do... especially when removing heads... I use a breaker bar and just do a small turn on each bolt. Then go back through to finish the job.
Its an iron head and block, so its not that big of a deal.

Most places sell bolt extractor kits. A small kit that comes with a drill bit and extractor tool.
Just need a good drill and some patients. Take your time, you dont want to drill at an odd angle and into the block.
Of course there are about 100 million ways to skin a cat, and just as many to get a broken bolt out.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2008 6:08 pm 
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yea its totally stupid i just used the torque wrench because i wondered how much i was putting on the head bolts compaired to specs... lol i used a craftsman 1/2in braker bar and a floor jack handle, i gave that battle up when i saw the braker bar handle bending! im running a 1/2in impact with 90 psi and it will not touch it either


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2008 9:13 pm 
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no :!: i had a feeling he knew not to use a torque wrench :ewink but i thought he would use a 3/4in breaker bar with a metal bar


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2008 10:24 pm 
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lol i wish i had a 3/4in i still could not get it off! i think im just going to put some water glass stuff in it. thats what older people tell me. dad and grandpa and uncles lol better yet a 1in impact lol idk im just about to do an engine swap but i want to keep a 4cyl


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 1:29 am 
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do you have a torch? get them nice n hot then try it :wink: or some marvel mystery oil! i live by that stuff :ewink how big of a pipe were you using? just try and use about 3 ft of leverage and pull hard! :esurprised seriously :ewink


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 11:54 am 
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the pipe was about 2feet. about the torch i was thinking of starting the engine and letting it get to running temp. the oil looks great no water but it spits water out the side of the block so it runs ok just want to fix it. u think running the engine will help or is there something about useing a torch that just works better?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 1:43 pm 
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well with a torch you can get it hotter and apply the heat to the main points you want to. and its kinda messy running the engine without a valve cover, but you could put that back on, run it, then take it back off and take them out.

and where exactly is the water coming from? inbetween the block and head? side of the block? you dont know? is there water in the oil?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 1:44 pm 
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no water in the oil! i cant believe it but its true. its on the driver side corner by the firewall bubblin out the crack between block and head


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 5:26 pm 
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Wow...I've pulled quite a few japanese 4 banger heads off and I've never had a problem getting them to break loose with a long handled 1/2 inch breaker bar and a piece of pipe for a cheater handle. And my long handled 1/2 inch breaker bar is a cheapo harbor freight special...lol Those head bolts must be in there really tight!

I wonder if the person that installed them over did it or even followed the torque spec's or used the right torque sequence? That sure would explain your leakage problem if they didn't.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 7:50 am 
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I broke a head bold off in a Early Honda car. I heated the rest of the bolts real hot with a torch, let them cool off and they came out. It was hell drilling out the broke head bold. It broke at top of the block... I had to get it drilled out and the hole tapped.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 3:25 pm 
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Ok...Some one has to ask it....Might as well be me.... :roll:

Lefty Loosey, Righty Tighty?

I hope your turning them in the right dirrection. :smt108

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 7:57 pm 
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erronisme wrote:
Ok...Some one has to ask it....Might as well be me.... :roll:

Lefty Loosey, Righty Tighty?

I hope your turning them in the right dirrection. :smt108

you know i didnt even think of that :roll:

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2008 1:35 am 
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i can get all but one out im pretty ive got that covered lol


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2008 10:32 am 
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This is part of the reason I loosen them up before taking them out.

You might try putting a couple bolts back in and tightening them. Not necessarly to spec, but tight should do.

It maybe that since you have all but one out, the pressure has built up on that one bolt. Cocking the head and giving it more squeeze. (Try saying that to your GF) :lol:

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